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Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
No. BPI 10-06 Subject: Temporary reduction in power brake assist in extreme cold weather Vehicles Involved: Models: 2009 BUICK ENCLAVE 2009 CHEVROLET TRAVERSE 2009 GMC ACADIA 2009 SATURN OUTLOOK From 9J100008 From 9S100002 From 9J100016 From 9J100003 to to to to 9J190898 9S143268 9J190899 9J190888 Condition: If the brake check valves are NOT installed correctly, an increased amount of brake pedal effort will be required to obtain brake function, and the brake assist system will NOT perform as designed. Repair: Replace the first design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (1) with a second design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (2). An arrow on the second design check valve indicates the vacuum draw direction (3). 1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield (engine cover) from the engine. 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 Determine where the two brake booster vacuum hose check valves are located. Refer to callouts 1 and 2 in the illustration 2. Release the quick connect (4) from the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 3. Remove the protective wrap (5) from the brake booster vacuum hose to locate check valve # (1). 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 4. Remove the check valve (1) from the brake booster vacuum hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 5. Remove the check valve (2) from the brake booster hose that routes to the intake manifold vacuum port (6). Note If necessary, a small amount of denatured alcohol can be used as an assembly aid for installing the vacuum hose to the manifold vacuum port. Do not use soap. 6. Install a new check valve (1) to the brake booster hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). Ensure the arrow on the check valve (1) ...
(2) Four brake booster installation nuts A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts in the engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector of brake fluid level gauge. (2) Remove the brake pipe from the master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installation nut. (1) CAUTION: In order to prevent the contact of the bracket and check valve, be sure to loosen the master cylinder mounting nut while holding the bracket with hand. Otherwise it may deform the bracket. (1) Check valve (2) Bracket (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from the pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin Nut Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod Brake pedal 3) Remove the brake booster while avoiding the brake pipe. NOTE: • Make sure that the booster shell and vacuum pipe are not subject to strong impacts. • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. If the booster is dropped, replace it. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, the angle may change by r3°, and it may result in damage to power piston cylinder. • Be careful when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. CAUTION: • Do not disassemble the brake booster.
Chase Bays 240sx Booster Delete Brake Line Relocation Kit Install Guide What is included? •(1) Stainless steel engine bay hard line •(6) Stainless braided/Teflon coated crimped brake lines •(1) -‐3AN Bulkhead Tee fitting (Gold in color) •(1) Female -‐3AN Tee Fitting w/ male fitting on leg (Black in color) •(2) Straight -‐3AN Bulkheads (1) 90 degree -‐3AN Bulkhead (4) Bulkhead nuts •(1) -‐3AN tube nut (for rear line) •(1) -‐3AN tube sleeve (for rear line) •(1) Wilwood Proportioning Valve with -‐3AN male fittings •Uninstall all OEM Brake hard lines and Booster/Master Cylinder. •Install your Chase Bays Brake Booster Delete Kit. Start with drilling your engine bay hole. Install the hard line to help line up the hole correctly.
– Drivelines and Universal Joints Universal Joint Maintenance • Most factory-installed universal joints are sealed and don’t require periodic lubrication • After-market replacement joints are equipped with a grease fitting and must be greased periodically Drive Shaft Problem Diagnosis • Road testing – Vehicle should be driven while accelerating and decelerating as well as at various steady speeds – Vibrations caused by worn U-joints usually occur while accelerating Types and Causes of Vibrations • High speed vibrations – Usually caused by driveshaft imbalance • Vibrations during acceleration – Usually caused by worn double Cardan joint ball and socket • Low speed vibrations – Usually caused by improper operating angles Noise Diagnosis • Clunking noise while accelerating from a dead stop – Usually caused by worn or damaged U-joint – Can be caused by problems including excessive clearance between slip joint and extension housing • Squeaking noise – Often caused by worn or poorly lubricated U-joint Reasons for Universal Joint Failure • Lack of lubrication • Pushing another car • Towing a trailer • Changing gears abruptly • Carrying heavy loads Steps in Lubricating U-Joints 1. Wipe off the nozzle of the fitting 2. Attach the hose of the grease gun to the fitting 3. Pump grease slowly into the fitting 4. Stop pumping when grease appears at the bearing cups Inspecting the Drive Shaft • Check for fluid leaks • Check the U-joints for signs of rust or leakage • Check for movement in the joint while trying to turn the yoke and the shaft in opposite directions • Check the drive shaft for dents, missing weights, and undercoating or dirt...
Installation Instructions 1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove rear lower cowling. 3. Remove OEM mufflers. V.A.L.E. TM 2008 Suzuki V a r i a b l e A x i s L o c k i n g E x h a u s t HAYABUSA V.A.L.E.™ Complete Exhaust System with M-2 Canister Part # 005-1930106V / 005-1930107V / 005-1930108V 8. 9. 4. The horn should also be removed for more radiator clearance. Install the TBR head pipes. (Each piece is labeled for proper postioning). From Left to Right, install head pipes 1, 2, 3, and then 4. Use the OEM gasket between the head pipes and cylinder head. Remove cowling from both the left and right sides. “M” Parts List Qty. Description 1 15” Muffler Canister 1 4-2-1 Slip-on Tube 1 4-2-1 Header Assembly 1 HARDWARE KIT 1 8x55mm Socket Head Flat Bolt (Black) 6 80mm Springs 1 8x16mm Flange Bolt 4 6x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw 1 Barrel Clamp 1 5mm Long Handle Ball End Hex Wrench 4 6mm Split Lock Washer 2 TBR Script Logo Yellow Decal 4” “1” Muffler Slip-tube Part Number Varies 005-19301S 005-19301HK 005-193-3C 005-SHF855B 005-S-80 005-FB816 005-SH814 005-27-66MSH 005-9-18610 005-WL6 015-10208-A 5. “2” “3” “R” “4” Remove radiator braces. 6. “L ” Remove O2 sensore from OEM head pipe. 10. Install the collectors to the bottom of the head pipes. The collectors are labeled “L for left and “R” for Right. ” IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ CAREFULLY We recommend that this performance part be installed by a qualified motorcycle technician. If you have any doubts as to your ability to install this performance part, please consult with your local motorcycle dealer. Read all instructions first before starting installation. Make sure the motorcycle and exhaust system are completely cool before starting the installation. Also, make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift during installation. Be sure to save all stock components for possible use later.
Suzuki Hayabusa & GSX-R 1000 Cylinder Head Price Sheet Vance & Hines Motorsports has the experience and most up to date computer controlled machines for every facet of engine preparation and performance parts. Byron Hines engines and pro heads have set more records and won more races than anyone else in motorcycle drag racing. Vance & Hines Motorsports also offers comprehensive head packages for Road Racing, Motorcross and Supercross engines. Hayabusa Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Cam Cut (Cam Caps) (.425 Lift & above) 99-07 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers 08 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets $ 100.00 $ 150.00 $ 365.63 $ 399.00 $ 45.00 $ 360.00 $ 698.00 $ 145.00 GSX-R 1000 Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 SF-1020 Flowbench Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Bore Lifter Buckets Valve Springs Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets...
RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.
The Ministry of Defence Makita and the MoD For almost five years Makita have been the sole supplier of powertools to the Ministry of Defence The Royal Engineers regiment recently took delivery of a further 500 Makita DCS5030 chainsaws, spares and specially designed rucksacks for carrying the lightweight chainsaws in rugged terrain. The British military uses chainsaws to clear wooded areas to set up forward operating bases, helicopter landing zones and for ground clearance to provide a clear line of sight for security and safety in hostile locations. The Royal Engineers are responsible for a broad range of facility logistics and with military operations of all descriptions, the Corps are regularly required to quickly establish new operation locations, sometimes in rural territory. It maybe necessary to fell trees quickly and safely to allow vehicle or helicopter access and the Makita DCS5030 50cc 3.8hp chainsaw is ideal for this type of use. It weighs Makita chainsaws and disc cutters are also on the front line with the British Navy. The Royal Navy is also equipped with Makita chainsaws, mainly for use in their valuable roll in disaster relief as a naval ship is often the first available outside assistance for a location hit by tornados, flooding, earthquake or tsunami.