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KENNEDY thoroughly recommends reading these instructions before using the trolley jack, even if you have used a trolley jack on a vehicle before. Reading these instructions carefully and understanding them fully will enable you to raise a vehicle correctly and will prevent injury to yourself or someone else as well as damage to the vehicle and equipment. Because this product is also used in conjunction with axle stands, please follow all relevant safety instructions regarding the lifting and supporting of vehicles. l Always take care to avoid injury when carrying or moving the jack. l Always check vehicle owner’s manual for correct vehicle weight. l Always use on specified jacking points, on a level surface and with a solid foundation. l Always check that jacking points are not corroded before use. l Always engage the handbrake before the vehicle is lifted and use wheel chocks at the end of the vehicle opposite the jack to guard against wheel movement. l Never use for manoeuvring vehicles. l Never use the jack if you suspect a fault. See the ‘Trouble Shooting’ section on page 6 for further information. l Never lift a car when somebody is under it, even with secure axle stands. l Never work under a vehicle only supported by a jack. After lifting the vehicle, support immediately with properly rated axle stands. l Never exceed the rated load capacity or tamper with the factory set overload valve. l Never lean against the raised vehicle. l Never modify the jack, it is not designed to support extensions or cradles and could become unsafe.
Tools needed: 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet 10mm ratchet spanner 7mm hose clamp driver 1. Open the bonnet and grasp both sides of the engine cover, then sharply pull upwards to remove it from the rubber grommets underneath. 2. Remove the breather assembly as shown below, by pushing the black retaining clip in on the gray fitting at the front, the yellow retainer in on the black fitting at the back, and simply pulling the rubber hose off the cam cover. Rear fitting Rubber hose Front fitting 3. Loosen the jubilee clip on the bottom of the noise generator. Move the gearbox breather out of the way, and undo the now accessible 10mm bolt on the top of the noise generator. This 10mm nut needs to be undone 4. Remove the end of the noise pipe from the firewall by squeezing the tabs top and bottom and wiggling the pipe out. 5. You can now remove the lower 10mm bolt holding the noise generator to the side of the engine using a ratchet spanner from the front or ¼” drive ratchet from the back, and remove the noise generator from the car. Lower 10mm bolt 6. Using the supplied silicon hose, cut a short length (50-75mm) from the end, then fit this and the remainder of the hose to the tee piece as shown. To stock rubber hose To valve To stock tee piece 7. Locate the vacuum feed to the standard valve as shown below. Remove the rubber feed to the valve from the stock tee piece, then fit our tee piece in between.
655 Eisenhower Drive Owatonna, MN 55060-0995 USA Telephone: (507) 455-7000 Tech. Serv.: (800) 533-6127 Fax: (800) 955-8329 Order Entry: (800) 533-6127 Fax: (800) 283-8665 International Sales: (507) 455-7223 Fax: (507) 455-7063 Form No. 102302 Assembly & Operating Instructions for: 1750 1750a D05223ST Original Instructions Heavy-Duty Engine Repair Stand Maximum Capacity: 2722 kg (6000 lbs.) Engine Stand Weight: 260 kg (573 lbs.) Description: Designed for mounting engines, transmissions, or other components by using the universal mounting plate or a mounting plate designed specifically for the application. The component may be rotated 360 degrees by using the crank handle; the component may be raised by using the lifting jack to increase swing radius for clearance when rotating the component. Two front wheels and two rear casters provide mobility. Tool Box Grease Fittings Tilting Shaft Assembly Crank Handle Engine Mounting Adapter Assembly (Universal Mounting Adapter Shown) Head Assembly Oil Fill Plug Oil Fill Plug Jack Release Valve Jack Handle (in storage position) Figure 1 Lifting Jack Floor Locks Explanation of Safety Signal Words The safety signal word designates the degree or level of hazard seriousness. danger: Indicates an imminently hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury. Warning: Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury. Caution: Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury. Caution: Used without the safety alert symbol indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in property damage. © 2010 SPX
This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Spacer - Brake Pedal Support to Body....................6.00 Gasket - Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer......................95 . NOW AVAILABLE: Brake drums made with detailed features per original specifications, balanced, and MADE IN THE USA. These are the best brake drums available! 1125A Front Brake Drum - 55/56....................................131.95 1125B Front Brake Drum - 57.........................................131.95 1126A Rear Brake Drum - 55/56.....................................131.95 1126B Rear Brake Drum - 57..........................................131.95 NOTE: BRAKE DRUMS SHIPPED AT ACTUAL COST 1193 Gasket - Front Brake Grease Baffle.........................1.05 2001 Disc brake pads.....................................................34.95 2004B Master Cylinder Repair Kit 1" Dia..........................25.98 . 2005 Booster Assy. - Power Brake - requires 2005D to convert to 56/57 T-Bird - Does not come with 2365A check valve . ..................................499.00 2005A Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 55................ 11.50 2005ASS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.22 2005B Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 56................ 11.50 2005BSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.25 2005C Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 57................12.25 2005CSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................18.25 2005CE Power Brake Booster Vac Line - Dual 4...................8.35 2005CESS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................10.45 2005D Power Brake Booster Line - To Convert Pass. Car Booster to T-Bird - 56/57.....................10.45 2005DSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................14.65 2005E Clip - To Hold 2005B & C to 9180 Brkt.....................1.85 2005F Rebuild Kit - Power Brake Booster (Does Not Include 2394)....................................178.00 2005G Vacuum Line - Flex - Power Brake Booster.............2.10 2005GE Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "E"..........3.15 2005GF Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "F"..........3.68 . Disc brakes now available See page 11 for details...
• Check for engine vacuum, make sure manifold is open and clear of carbon build up. • Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at the booster, do not guess. • Check vacuum hoses for soft spots, deterioration or collapse (replace hose if in doubt.) • Check brake pedal for binding. • Check the condition of the foundation brakes, drums, linings, and brake shoes for binding. • Check for air in Hydraulic System. • Check for any line restrictions. PEDAL KICKBACK • Check for dirt or foreign matter in Hydraulic System. • Before replacing the booster, remove the master cylinder to clean any dirt out. Also; Clean out the rest of the Hydraulic System. BRAKE WILL NOT RELEASE • Be sure a brake booster with residual check valve is not used with master cylinder with check valve. • On remote mountd boosters, disconnect the line between the master cylinder and the brake booster. • If the brakes release, the trouble is in the master cylinder (possibly the brake pedal is binding.) • If brakes do not release, disconnect the line from the booster to the wheel cylinders. • If the brakes release, the problem will be in the booster. • If brakes still do not release, the problem is in foundation brakes. • If brakes will not release on firewall mounted brake booster, disconnect the hydraulic line to the wheels. • If brakes release, the problem is in the booster or master cylinder (be sure the brake pedal is not binding.) LOW BRAKE PEDAL • Make sure master cylinder reservoir is full. • Check for air in the hydraulic system. • Make sure there are no leaks in the wheel cylinders, lines or fittings. • Check the foundation brakes for proper adjustment, cracked or over-sized drums. SPECIAL NOTES: Common Causes of Booster Failure
There are many car tuning stores around the world where you can buy best and suitable car body kits. Invest your money in best Toyota Land cruiser body kit and also we have many choices and varieties in styles and designs in car body kits.
Scottoiler: Suzuki Hayabusa (GSX1300R) 2001 & 2002 – Installation Guide for Suzuki Hayabusa 2001 & 2002 - Locate the vacuum – 2001 models: On the RHS of the bike there is a vacuum pipe between the cylinder head and the throttle bodies, running behind the throttle pulleys, as shown below left. Cut into this pipe and insert the T-Piece from the Scottoiler kit. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. 2002 – models: On the LHS of the bike there is a vacuum pipe with a check valve in it, as shown in the third picture. Cut into this pipe on the left of the check valve and insert the T-Piece from the Scottoiler kit. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. The RMV can be mounted under the seat or behind the number plate. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’.
Riley E. Dunlap Oklahoma State University We examine political polarization over climate change within the American public by analyzing data from 10 nationally representative Gallup Polls between 2001 and 2010. We ﬁnd that liberals and Democrats are more likely to report beliefs consistent with the scientiﬁc consensus and express personal concern about global warming than are conservatives and Republicans. Further, the effects of educational attainment and self-reported understanding on global warming beliefs and concern are positive for liberals and Democrats, but are weaker or negative for conservatives and Republicans. Last, signiﬁcant ideological and partisan polarization has occurred on the issue of climate change over the past decade. The Western experience of modernity—especially technological development, economic growth, material prosperity, urbanization, and democracy—has been built upon industrial capitalism, an economic system predicated on the accelerating extraction and consumption of fossil fuels for energy (Clark and York 2005). A major unintended consequence of the use of fossil fuels is anthropogenic global warming or climate change.1 Recognizing and responding to climate change, arguably the most challenging social problem of the modern era (Giddens 2009), thus poses a fundamental critique of continued modernization processes around the world (Antonio 2009). For two decades, European-based reﬂexive modernization theorists (e.g., Beck, Giddens, and Lash 1994; Mol 1996) have argued that forces of reﬂexivity, particularly science and environmentalism, compel us to confront threats to societal persistence such as climate change.2 In contrast, stimulated by the United States’s long-term, laggard response to climate change, a growing number of scholars have begun calling attention to forces of “anti-reﬂexivity” (McCright and Dunlap 2010)—particularly the industrial sector and the conservative movement—that defend the industrial capitalist order from critique by denying the signiﬁcance of problems such as climate change (also see, e.g., *Direct all correspondence to Aaron M. McCright, Lyman Briggs College, Michigan State University, E-185 Holmes Hall, East Lansing, MI 48825-1107; e-mail: email@example.com The Sociological Quarterly 52 (2011) 155–194 © 2011 Midwest Sociological Society
Weight – 250 Lbs. Rating – 120V / 60 Hz / 15 Amps • Connected Load (kW Rating) @ 120 Volts = 1.2 kW (For use on adequately wired 120V, dedicated circuit having 2-wire service with a separate ground wire. Appliance must be grounded for safe operation.) • Amps @ 120V = 10 Amps • Always consult local and national electric and gas codes. • Make sure all wall coverings around range can withstand heat generated by range. • Linoleum or any other synthetic floor covering located beneath range, must be capable of withstanding minimum heat of 90° F above room temperature without shrinking, warping or discoloring. Insulating pad or 1/4"-thick plywood required between range and a carpeted floor. • Do not obstruct flow of combustion air at oven vent nor around base or beneath lower front panel of range. Range requires fresh air for proper burner combustion. • Range ships with 3/4" factory regulator. • LP Gas conversion kit supplied. • Gas supply piping can be routed through side wall of right cabinet. Right side cabinet is ideal location for main shutoff valve.