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MSRP: $13,999 The Suzuki Hayabusa is a machine so dominant, that it created an entirely new category of motorcycle in the industry – Ultimate Sport. With performance credentials that have established it as the most exciting sportbike on the planet, it's designed for serious sport riders who will settle for nothing less than the best. If that's you, and if you choose to ride the Hayabusa, you'll be rewarded with a riding experience you'll never forget. Its combination of unsurpassed power, crisp handling and superb aerodynamics creates the ultimate sport bike. For 2012, the Hayabusa is available with new graphics and colors - Glass Sparkle Black, Pearl Glacier White and limited edition Candy Sonoma Red. TOP 10 FEATURES The Hayabusa is equipped with a 1340cc, in-line, DOHC liquid-cooled engine with 16-valves, and Twin Swirl Combustion Chambers (TSCC) for eﬃcient, powerful acceleration and top end performance. The Hayabusa’s engine is fed via Suzuki’s Suzuki Dual Throttle Valve (SDTV) fuel injection system uses engine-computer-operated secondary valves to maintain optimum intake-air velocity for maximum combustion eﬃciency. Two 12-hole ﬁne-spray injectors on each throttle body improve fuel atomization for better combustion eﬃciency and while reducing fuel consumption. Lightweight aluminum alloy pistons with a compression ratio of 12.5:1 are used for maximum performance in all conditions with stunning acceleration and top end power. Hard, smooth chrome-nitride Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) coating on the upper compression and oil control rings on each piston reduces friction while improving cylinder sealing. Lightweight titanium valves allow the use of light valve springs and high lift while maintaining accurate valve control. Iridium spark plugs are used for high combustion eﬃciency and consistent performance. The Hayabusa comes with an constant mesh 6-speed transmission, with close gear ratios for outstanding performance. Oil spray to the 4th, 5th and 6th gears reduces wear and mechanical noise during highway cruising. Suzuki Clutch Assist System (SCAS) serves as a back-torque-limiting system for smooth downshifts and also contributes to a light clutch pull. A lightweight and rigid twin-spar aluminum frame minimizes weight while maintaining high torsional strength, and is designed to allow a compact riding position for exceptional handling and control on the road. Rear subframe is made of rectangular steel tubing for suﬃcient weight carrying capacity. Lightweight Showa Big Piston front Fork (BPF) features a 37.6mm upper piston riding inside the 41mm fork tube. This endurance-race-proven design, along with a lightweight fully adjustable Showa rear shock, delivers more eﬀective, linear damping performance, resulting in better feedback to the rider for unmatched handling. A bridged aluminum alloy swingarm features a cross-sectional shape for increased rigidity, which improves rear tire grip and increases engine output. The Hayabusa’s fully adjustable rear shock absorber has a 43mm piston and 14mm rod diameter. Radial-mount Tokico front brake calipers oﬀer maximum braking performance using dual 310mm front brake rotors, resulting in reduced unsprung weight and improved handling. A lightweight single piston rear brake caliper works in conjunction with a 260mm rear brake disc. S-DMS (Suzuki Drive Mode Selector) allows the rider to choose from three diﬀerent engine settings, depending on riding conditions or rider preferences. For example, the rider can choose one map for tight, twisty roads and another for high-speed cruising.
Installation Instructions for Suzuki Hayabusa GSX-1300R (08-13) CT Series Exhaust System The CT Series Exhaust Systems for the Suzuki Hayabusa (08-13) is a high performance 4-2-1 exhaust, which replaces the stock headers, mid-pipes, and mufflers. The system is available in either Single or Dual outlet. STEP 1: CHECK PACKAGE CONTENTS: Four (4) Header Mount Flanges Four (4) Spigots One (1) Right and One (1) Left Side Header (Primaries) One Collector Package Containing Springs, Spring Puller, and Supplemental Information One (1) Elbow (or two (2) if dual) One (1) CT muffler (or two (2) if dual) One Black Rubber Cap (Not Shown) ***PAIR BLOCK OFF MUST BE PERFORMED TO PREVENT PREMATURE EXHAUST FAILURE*** STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE BODYWORK: Remove all push pins starting with the 2 under the motorcycle, holding the two side fairings together. Next remove the two push pins behind the front wheel holding the lower screen to the side fairings. Remove the screen (chin piece). Remove the belly pan by disconnecting the push pins behind the regulator/rectifier, and the 4mm Allen bolt on the right side below the foot peg and brake assembly. Remove (2) 4mm Allen bolts on right side fairing, and (2) Allen bolts below the handle bars (one black, one silver). Repeat on left side of motorcycle. Remove push pin below handle bars on both sides of motorcycle also. Remove 4 push pins next to and above front fender. DOCUMENT ID 994081 The bodywork can now be pulled off. There are rubber grommets holding the bodywork on now that all of the fasteners have been removed. Start by pulling the bottom of the bodywork out. The first grommet is connected to the top of the oil pan. Next pull the bodywork away from the frame above the clutch cover. Pull black cover next to gas tank up to remove plastic pin from rubber grommet. Next, lift bottom of bodywork away from motorcycle about six inches and pull down, be very patient because the first time is always the hardest. Once one side is disconnected from the motorcycle remove the other side in the same fashion. STEP 4: REMOVE THE MUFFLERS: In the rear of the motorcycle you will notice two very large cans…they are the mufflers. Loosen pipe clamp where the elbow meets the exit of the catalytic converter next to the regulator/rectifier on both sides of the motorcycle. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the muffler to the passenger peg. Do this on both sides. Make sure to be careful not to drop the mufflers when they are loosened from the passenger peg. STEP 6: REMOVE THE HEAD PIPES: You will notice a bracket holding the radiator to the engine. Remove the bolt so you can push it forward to make room for the removal of the headers. Next remove the brackets for the radiator and oil cooler. Remove all eight (8) of the 8mm Allen bolts holding the four primaries to the head. Be careful not to hit the flanges of the pipes on the radiator, sometimes a piece of cardboard will help in this area for protection of the radiator. Check to make sure the exhaust gaskets are still in the head, you will reuse these. Next, remove the 12mm bolt holding the back of the Cat to the bracket, remove the bracket. STEP 7: INSTALL FLANGES You will notice the flanges are a two-piece design. The cup has a lip on the inside that must face toward the cylinder head, with the flange holding it in the head, make sure both of these pieces are flush so the exhaust may be slipped into them. Keeping them semi loose will help this process. Hang springs from both holes on each flange. Install in the orientation shown below. ...
SUZUKI GSX-1300R HAYABUSA K8 COLORED WIRING DIAGRAM ECM UNIT BOTTOM VIEW 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 7 8 6 5 4 3 2 1 VIEW FROM INSERTION FACE OF COUPLER 1 Gr B/W SDS GND W/R Bl/Y R O/W +B COV2 RxD1 TxD1 +5V 8 1 6 1 B/Br Bl/W Bl/B Bl/G P/W W/B SM1A SM2A TECH MPS PM VTA COS2 G B/Y W/G R B/Bl G/B P/B Bl/Y B/G P VCC THW OX N+ G+ BATT SM1B SM2B +B STP Dg G/Y B/W P B G/B Y/W B/Lg G O/W R/Bl GP DON LED EXS PA THA E2 SDS SG COV1 35 34 SDL NCOV3 VM Y/B Y/Bl O/Bl Bl G B/W Y/R Gr Bl Bl/G B/Br IS1A IS2A E1 DMS1 TACO IRLY OXH STA SOL2 FAR #31 #41 #21 IG2 IG3 #11 IG1 Bl/W Bl/B O/R Y Br W/Bl B Y Gr/W Gr/B Gr/Y Gr/R Gr O/R Y/G W/B DMS2 IS1B IS2B COV2 COV1 NT MS #42 CLT #32 G B/W B/W W/R Lg Lg/W Lg/G Lg/Bl B/Y Bl B/W TS #12 #22 E01 IG4 E03 JAE MX23A34SF1 (black) Gr G Gr Y 4 SUMITOMO 090-MT G B/W O/G W/B ON OFF R O G/B O O/G Br O/Bl O/R B/W O/B O/W O/G W/B Y/G O Y/W 5 1 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH O/W B/Br W/G W/B G/Y R O O/Y Bl Gr Br 1 ON OFF LOCK P B Lg G/Y B/Lg OIL FUEL LEFT RIGHT LIGHT NT DATA +B P B/R Y/Bl B/G O/G Y Bl/B R/Bl B/W SPEED VCC TACO BATT E O/Bl O/R B/W O/B O/W B/R B/Bl Y/G O/R Y/W IGNITION SWITCH 16 B/R B/W B JAE MX34016SF1 B/R B/W P PUSH FREE PUSH Gr B COMBINATION METER SIDE-STAND SWITCH OFF ON Gr W/Bl STARTER BUTTON 68 W Gr B W OFF RUN UP DOWN JAE MX23A34SF2 (gray) 6 2 DIAGNOSIS ECM IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION COIL #1 COIL #2 COIL #3 COIL #4 G B/W SPEED SENSOR DRIVING MODE SWITCH FRONT BRAKE SWITCH OFF ON O/W B/Br W/G W/B B 9 3 FLASH HANDLEBAR SWITCH (R) 1 5 FURUKAWA 090-RFW HO2 SENSOR OIL PRESSURE SWITCH 16 6 1 8 7 2 ENGINE STOP SWITCH 8 3 VIEW FROM INSERTION FACE OF COUPLER 4 MODE (For E-03, 28) 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 POSITION LIGHT (R) B B Br B/W FRONT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT (R) B B/W Lg B/W REAR TURN SIGNAL LIGHT (R) W B/W HEADLIGHT (LO) Lg W Y B/W Br B Y B/W HEADLIGHT (HI) FRONT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT (L) B B/W B B/W B B Lg B/W Lg W Y B/W Br B Lg W/B B/W Br B Br B/W Lg B/W REAR COMBINATION LIGHT Lg W/B B/W Br B W/B B/W Br B B/W W/B B/W Br B B/W REAR TURN SIGNAL LIGHT (L) POSITION LIGHT (L) Br B/W Gr B/W 3 PUSH OFF ON L PUSH R PUSH HI LO PAIR FAN MOTOR CONTROL SOLENOID RELAY VALVE ECT SENSOR STVA STP SENSOR GP SWITCH FREE PASSING DIMMER CLUTCH HAZARD HORN SWITCH SWITCH BUTTON SWITCH TURN SIGNAL LIGHT LIGHT SWITCH SWITCH #1 Gr/R Y/R #4 Gr/Y Y/R Lg/G Y/R #3 Gr/B Y/R #2 SECONDARY FUEL INJECTOR Gr/W Y/R #1 Lg/Bl Y/R TP IAP SENSOR SENSOR Lg Y/R HANDLEBAR SWITCH (L) #2 #3 #4 PRIMARY FUEL INJECTOR ISC VALVE Y Y Y REGULATOR/ RECTIFIER GENERATOR Bl Y G Br B/W B/W B/Y Y/G R R Y Y Y R R B/W B/W B B B B/R B/R B/W B/W Y Y Y G Bl Bl G 1 Bl P B/W TO SENSOR R B/Y B/Br Bl P B/W Bl/Y R B R B B/Br B/Lg P/W G W/B R Y/W B/Br B P G W/Bl Bl Y B
A reasonably competent amateur mechanic, using only basic hand tools, should be capable of fitting the Geartronics indicator in less than 1 hour. Step 1. Remove the screw at each side of the seat and remove the riders seat. Remove the 2 screws in front of the fuel tank. Lift the front of the tank and support at approximately 45° to gain access behind the engine. Step 2. Remove all screws securing the left hand lower fairing and carefully remove the panel to expose the bike frame. Note that there are 2 different sizes of screws! Remove the single screw & clip securing the insert panel located to the left of the instrument cluster. The centre of the clip should be pushed in, allowing the outer part to be pulled out. Step 3. Locate the gear position sensor connectors with reference to the photo below. Close up of gear position sensor connector The connectors are 3 pin white triangular, and have pink blue & black wires. Separate the 2 connectors by inserting a small screwdriver into the releasing latch and pulling the housings apart. DO NOT pull on the wires to separate the connectors as damage may result. Step 4. Plug the connectors on the Geartronics loom into the two connectors you separated in step 3. Run the Geartronics loom alongside the existing loom on the left hand side frame. Secure with the cable ties supplied in the kit. Step 5. The Geartronics control box should be fitted behind the fuse box located under, and in front of, the left handlebar. The control box should be mounted with the connector at the bottom so as to reduce the possibility of water ingress. Step 6. Route the display cable up and along the top of the instrument cluster and secure the display housing to the top of the cluster using double-sided adhesive tape provided. Take care not to make sharp bends in the display cable, as it is quite fragile. Step 7. Making the power connections: The black earth wire should be secured under the lower left hand instrument cluster screw as shown in the photo below. The red wire for the 12v supply can be connected to any convenient ignition switched feed. On the year 2000 model illustrated, it was found that the most convenient supply was that going to the front light cluster. The front light wiring harness connects to the main loom using a black rectangular connector located to the left of the fuse box. The 12v supply was found on the thick orange/red wire. Other year models may use a different colour code and if in doubt, reference should be made to the appropriate service manual. Splice the red wire into the lighting power feed using the 3M ‘Scotchlok’ connector provided. Step 8. Testing the display: check that the bike is in neutral and turn on the ignition. The display should read ‘N’. The function of the standard neutral lamp should be unaffected. If possible select 1st and 2nd gears and confirm that the display reads correctly. It will be unlikely that the other gears can be selected unless the engine is running, but if the display is reading correctly in Neutral and 1st then it is fair to assume that all is functioning correctly. Step 9. Ensure that no wires have been trapped or incorrectly routed, then replace the insert panel, the fairing and the seat. Remember that the fairing is secured using two different types of screw! Step 10. Finally, road test the bike to ensure that the display is reading correctly in all gears. The display should be easily visible, both from under the screen with you head down, or through the screen with you head up.
TONY, 47, is a sales manager based in Bradford, Yorkshire, and bought a 1999 Hayabusa brand new. He sold it a few years later, but bought an ’03 model after missing the old bike so much. Gary: “I bought a new Hayabusa in 2004 and was a bit disappointed at first, as the power delivery was a little notchy somehow and I also thought that the clutch could have been better. “The throttle response smoothed out a bit as I ran the bike in, but I was still surprised that Suzuki don’t seem to have done much to the bike over the last five or six years. I mean, apart from restricting the top end and changing the colour schemes each year, it’s much the same bike. “Since buying mine, I’ve spent a fair bit on it, with a one-off titanium exhaust system, modified airbox, wavy discs, aftermarket six-pots, braided lines, small clear indicators, carbon inserts on the bodywork and so on. “Overall, I reckon that fitting the exhaust, de-seaming the innards of the airbox, dyno time, plus the new calipers have made the biggest difference to the performance of the bike. It now goes and stops loads better – sounds great too. I think just dumping the stock exhaust system probably saved about 4kg in weight.” Ian: “The W-plate Hayabusa I had ended up being transformed from a standard road bike – admittedly an insanely fast one – into an almost unrideable missile. Freakin’ good fun, though – even if I was only getting 80 miles out of each tankful! “The 2004 Busa I have now is more laid back and easier to ride, plus it’s a showcase for the accessories and stuff I can do in the shop: polished wheels, wavy discs, braided lines. Plus I put a Blue Flame can on it, set the bike up at the dyno and re-chipped the ECU so it doesn’t stop at 186mph. But I’m still not 100% happy with the brakes – I really think the Hayabusa needs more stopping power.” Tony: “There’s no great difference in performance between the older Hayabusa and the later, so-called ‘restricted’ versions. The only restriction is that at 186mph the ECU tells the fuel injectors to cut the supply to one cylinder, which stops it from going any faster. Otherwise, there’s still the same amazing amount of power, although the 2003-on bikes feel a touch smoother in their overall throttle response, due to their remapped fuelling and ignition. “The brakes are equally weak on both models and fitting braided lines and some different pads is a must if you want serious stopping power. Apart from that, I would say the performance is more than most riders will ever need on the public road.” OLD Hayabusas hold their value well on the secondhand market
Installing the Ghetto Kit for the Suzuki Hayabusa Parts in included in Kit… Polish alum intake/silicon hose Air cleaner Stainless header 38mmTial Waste Gate FMU BEGI 3 Billet fuel rail inserts Oil feed Line Charge tube (Polished) Oil drain line Vac hose Boost & Fuel Gauges ( Carbon Fiber Look by Auto meter ) Check valves Fuel pump EFI fuel hose Dump Pipe & Wastegate Pipe Manifold straps Mits turbo custom made. Special Tools Required: 1.) 23/32 drill bit – f0r fitting in oil pan 2.) ball end 6mm allen wrench – for exhaust header 3.) silicone for fittings (Permatex Ultra Black or equal) 4.) 15amp fuse (should already have extra one in fuse box) 5.) 6mm tap for blocking Pair (Air Supply) System ~ i.e. emission system and 4 - 6mm x ½ long bolts 6.) 2” box hole drill bit for gauge holes Optional parts not supplied: 1.) Mobil Synthetic 15W-50 Motor Oil (Red Cap) or equal recommended. 2.) Oil Filter 3.) Anti-Freeze if you do not want to re-use your existing gaskets… 4.) oil pan gasket 5.) exhaust gaskets 6.) clutch cover gasket 7.) fuel rail rubber gaskets (6) 1.) Preparing bike for install, remove the following… a.) Bodywork side panels, underbelly fairing, gas tank, upper inner fairings b.) Pair (Air Supply) System and disregard. tap and use 6mm bolts to block openings c.) air box and disregard (remove air sensor first) d.) exhaust system and disregard e.) remove oil cooler, brackets and oil lines and disregard f.) remove radiator g.) remove clutch line support bracket (leave line connected) h.) remove oil pan i.) remove throttle bodies 2.) Replace 10amp fuse for “FUEL” with 15amp fuse. 3.) Install Heavy Duty Clutch Springs. 4.) Modify Oil Pan for oil return line from Turbo by drilling a 23/32 hole on the left front side. Remove any metal shavings and install fitting facing front of bike. Apply silicone to threads of fitting first (typical for all threaded fittings). Re-install Oil Pan. 5.) Remove Oil Plug (reducer) behind Oil Filter using 8mm allen. Re-install new oil filter.
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A quick search of the internet will pull up tons of material on risk management and internal controls, to help you improve your business. All organizations, be they private sectors, not-for-profit or public sector bodies have to adhere to whichever set of governance codes they fall under. One example is the UK Corporate Governance Code that is published by the Financial Reporting Council for listed companies that either have to comply or explain why not. The Sept 2012 version includes code C.2.1 which states:
Harry Potter Goes to Law School Lenora Ledwon "It is our choices, Harry, that show us what we truly are, far more than our abilities." -Professor Dumbledore' Law students read Harry Potter.' They read about him in between reading cases, statutes, codes, and other texts filled with magical words. (Sometimes they read about him instead of reading cases, statutes and codes.) Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry looks very much like a Harvard Law School for wizards, a school where students learn the secrets of magic words of power. Both types of schools offer explicit and implicit lessons about power, its acquisition, and its uses. Education offers student wizards and student lawyers alike the tools to become forces for evil or good in the world. Like all great novels of development, the Harry Potter stories ask one central question, "How shall I live in the world, for good or for ill?" This is an often unspoken question in law school, where concerns about grades, jobs and salaries can all too easily take precedence. Yet, it is one law students must face. What kind of practitioner will I become? Where will I seek the kind of "fierce JOy" that Harry finds in his Seeker role? And, most importantly, what will I choose to do with this power I am acquiring? This chapter explores the implications of the similarities between law school and wizard school by focusing on the topics of: (1) students; (2) professors; (3) studying and exams; and (4) academic culture. 1 conclude that the series of Harry Potter books can be read collectively as one overarching bildungsroman (or novel of development) and that this process of development is very simi1. Chamber of Secrets 333. 2. The Chronicle ofHigher Education, in its periodic surveys of the top ten books being read on college campuses, consistently lists Harry Potter books. My own informal polls of students in my Law and Literature courses confirm that Rawling's books are quite popular arnong law students.