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solidworks ball valve drawings

INSTRUCTION MANUAL TROLLEY JACK - Cromwell Tools

KENNEDY thoroughly recommends reading these instructions before using the trolley jack, even if you have used a trolley jack on a vehicle before. Reading these instructions carefully and understanding them fully will enable you to raise a vehicle correctly and will prevent injury to yourself or someone else as well as damage to the vehicle and equipment. Because this product is also used in conjunction with axle stands, please follow all relevant safety instructions regarding the lifting and supporting of vehicles. l Always take care to avoid injury when carrying or moving the jack. l Always check vehicle owner’s manual for correct vehicle weight. l Always use on specified jacking points, on a level surface and with a solid foundation. l Always check that jacking points are not corroded before use. l Always engage the handbrake before the vehicle is lifted and use wheel chocks at the end of the vehicle opposite the jack to guard against wheel movement. l Never use for manoeuvring vehicles. l Never use the jack if you suspect a fault. See the ‘Trouble Shooting’ section on page 6 for further information. l Never lift a car when somebody is under it, even with secure axle stands. l Never work under a vehicle only supported by a jack. After lifting the vehicle, support immediately with properly rated axle stands. l Never exceed the rated load capacity or tamper with the factory set overload valve. l Never lean against the raised vehicle. l Never modify the jack, it is not designed to support extensions or cradles and could become unsafe.

renault megane rs250 dump valve installation - Forge Motorsport

Tools needed: 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet 10mm ratchet spanner 7mm hose clamp driver 1. Open the bonnet and grasp both sides of the engine cover, then sharply pull upwards to remove it from the rubber grommets underneath. 2. Remove the breather assembly as shown below, by pushing the black retaining clip in on the gray fitting at the front, the yellow retainer in on the black fitting at the back, and simply pulling the rubber hose off the cam cover. Rear fitting Rubber hose Front fitting 3. Loosen the jubilee clip on the bottom of the noise generator. Move the gearbox breather out of the way, and undo the now accessible 10mm bolt on the top of the noise generator. This 10mm nut needs to be undone 4. Remove the end of the noise pipe from the firewall by squeezing the tabs top and bottom and wiggling the pipe out. 5. You can now remove the lower 10mm bolt holding the noise generator to the side of the engine using a ratchet spanner from the front or ¼” drive ratchet from the back, and remove the noise generator from the car. Lower 10mm bolt 6. Using the supplied silicon hose, cut a short length (50-75mm) from the end, then fit this and the remainder of the hose to the tee piece as shown. To stock rubber hose To valve To stock tee piece 7. Locate the vacuum feed to the standard valve as shown below. Remove the rubber feed to the valve from the stock tee piece, then fit our tee piece in between.

ALGEBRA 2/TRIGONOMETRY - JMap
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SchooIName: ________~>~+_~-'~·.~'_,,_·w_"'_________________________________ Print your name and the name of your school on the lines above. A separate answer sheet for Part I has been provided to you. Follow the instructions from the proctor for completing the student information on your answer sheet. This examination has four parts, with a total of 39 questions. You must answer all questions in this examination. Write your answers to the Part I multiple-choice questions on the separate answer sheet. Write your answers to the questions in Parts II, III, and IV directly in this booklet. All work should be written in pen, except graphs and drawings, which should be done in pencil. Clearly indicate the necessary steps, including appropriate formula substitutions, diagrams, graphs, charts, etc. The formulas that you may need to answer some questions in this examination are found at the end of the examination. This sheet is perforated so you may remove it from this booklet. Scrap paper is not permitted for any part of this examination, but you may use the blank spaces in this booklet as scrap paper. A perforated sheet of scrap graph paper is provided at the end of this booklet for any question for which graphing may be helpful but is not required. You may remove this sheet from this booklet. Any work done on this sheet of scrap graph paper will not be scored. When you have completed the examination, you must sign the statement printed at the end of the answer sheet, indicating that you had no unlawful knowledge of the questions or answers prior to the examination and that you have neither given nor received assistance in answering any of the questions during the examination. Your answer sheet cannot be accepted if you fail to sign this declaration. Notice ...

ALGEBRA 2/TRIGONOMETRY - JMap
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ALGEBRA 2/TRIGONOMETRY Tuesday, January 28, 2014 — 1:15 to 4:15 p.m., only Student Name:________________________________________________________ School Name: ______________________________________________________________ The possession or use of any communications device is strictly prohibited when taking this examination. If you have or use any communications device, no matter how briefly, your examination will be invalidated and no score will be calculated for you. Print your name and the name of your school on the lines above. A separate answer sheet for Part I has been provided to you. Follow the instructions from the proctor for completing the student information on your answer sheet. This examination has four parts, with a total of 39 questions. You must answer all questions in this examination. Record your answers to the Part I multiple-choice questions on the separate answer sheet. Write your answers to the questions in Parts II, III, and IV directly in this booklet. All work should be written in pen, except for graphs and drawings, which should be done in pencil. Clearly indicate the necessary steps, including appropriate formula substitutions, diagrams, graphs, charts, etc. The formulas that you may need to answer some questions in this examination are found at the end of the examination. This sheet is perforated so you may remove it from this booklet. Scrap paper is not permitted for any part of this examination, but you may use the blank spaces in this booklet as scrap paper. A perforated sheet of scrap graph paper is provided at the end of this booklet for any question for which graphing may be helpful but is not required. You may remove this sheet from this booklet. Any work done on this sheet of scrap graph paper will not be scored.

Steering, Suspension, and Driveline Basics (with How Lift ... - Meetup

Throughout this article I will address many basics of your vehicle’s steering, suspension, driveline, tires, and wheels. I did not intend this to be a “how to” manual with step by step instructions. It will simply illustrate the concepts. I’ll start with the lift and explain what it did to your steering, suspension, and driveline one aspect at a time. NOTES ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATIONS: 1) most are “spring under” leaf spring suspension, 2) non-pertinent parts are omitted for clarity, 3) many examples are exaggerated for illustration, and 4) most concepts illustrated also apply to spring over and coil/link suspensions. To cover the differences, I added a separate coil and link suspensions topic. Ready? OK, let’s get started. You lifted your Jeep and now it wanders all over the road and it vibrates too. What happened? Well, you just changed a lot of the vehicle’s geometry (probably without knowing it). Here’s a diagram of a stock Jeep and the proper angles. Your caster angle should be between 4 and 8 degrees positive. This caster angle creates an effect called mechanical trail. It’s the force that makes your wheels return to center. The caster angle shown below is close to stock. The point that the steering axis (black line) intersects the ground to the point to where the rotational axis touches the ground forms the points to measure your caster angle. You can best measure the caster angle from the top of the upper ball joint.

Heavy-Duty Engine Repair Stand
by kororawa 0 Comments favorite 6 Viewed Download 0 Times

655 Eisenhower Drive Owatonna, MN 55060-0995 USA Telephone: (507) 455-7000 Tech. Serv.: (800) 533-6127 Fax: (800) 955-8329 Order Entry: (800) 533-6127 Fax: (800) 283-8665 International Sales: (507) 455-7223 Fax: (507) 455-7063 Form No. 102302 Assembly & Operating Instructions for: 1750 1750a D05223ST Original Instructions Heavy-Duty Engine Repair Stand Maximum Capacity: 2722 kg (6000 lbs.) Engine Stand Weight: 260 kg (573 lbs.) Description: Designed for mounting engines, transmissions, or other components by using the universal mounting plate or a mounting plate designed specifically for the application. The component may be rotated 360 degrees by using the crank handle; the component may be raised by using the lifting jack to increase swing radius for clearance when rotating the component. Two front wheels and two rear casters provide mobility. Tool Box Grease Fittings Tilting Shaft Assembly Crank Handle Engine Mounting Adapter Assembly (Universal Mounting Adapter Shown) Head Assembly Oil Fill Plug Oil Fill Plug Jack Release Valve Jack Handle (in storage position) Figure 1 Lifting Jack Floor Locks Explanation of Safety Signal Words The safety signal word designates the degree or level of hazard seriousness. danger: Indicates an imminently hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury. Warning: Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury. Caution: Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury. Caution: Used without the safety alert symbol indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in property damage. © 2010 SPX

Laine Engine Stand Drawings
by kororawa 0 Comments favorite 1 Viewed Download 0 Times

4.00x4.50x1/4" steel caster mounts - 3/8" holes on 2.75x3.25 centers 2x2x.083 steel square tubing 2.000 Engine Stand, Main Frame 60.000 1" square tubing 7.750 4.000 30.000 30.000 truncate corner approx .5" .625 .500 Dia (2 pl) 7.200 4.563 .438 Dia * 8.250 7.625 1.688 .250 *Center hole is shown as corrected (original was 3/16 up and 3/16 left) Install CarQuest MOU 31-3097 motor mounts with studs towards center (78-79 Buick/Olds, 79 Chev, 75-76 Pontiac Transmission Mount) .875 See Mountbar.dc for main bar dims Mtl: 1.5 x 2.5 x .187 steel 1.500 Mount is to place crankshaft 10" above main frame 1.000 14.750 2.500 12.750 7.313 3.750 .438 Dia Small Block Ford Front Engine Mount Bar (mountbarSBFfront.dc) 2.000 4.750 .000, .000 2.875, -0.500 Matl: 1x1 tubing 3.375, -1.000 .500, -0.500 Generic Engine Mount Bar (mountbar.dc) .000, .000 28.500, -1.000 .438 Dia (typical) 2.875, -1.000 .500, -1.000 Matl: 2x2, .120 wall, square tubing 30.875, -1.000 CL = 15.687 31.375, -2.000 MountBarFordRear.dc Supports GM T-10, T5 and Tremec .500 R .000, .000 10.120, -1.000 1.880, -1.000 Matl: .375 al plate 1.750, -1.067 10.250, -1.067 6.000, -3.000 1.990, -1.530 9.910, -1.530 .500 Dia (9 pl) 1.120, -5.810 10.250, -5.810 1.000 .377 10.250, -7.377 1.750, -7.377 tap thru 3/8-16 (3 pl) .800 .500, -8.000 6.000, -8.000 2.440, -7.800 8.760, -7.800 11.500, -8.000 1.000 1.623 12.000, -9.000 .438 Dia Matl: 2x2x.125 angle 2.000 1.250 3.000 9.000 12.000 1.000 .438 Dia 10.813 14.563 16.813 20.563 Install CarQuest MOU 31-3097 motor mounts (78-79 Buick/Olds, 79 Chev, 75-76 Pontiac Transmission Mount) See Mountbar.dc for main bar dims Mount is to place crankshaft 10" above main frame .000, .000 1.000 2.000, -.500 .201 Dia (6 pl) 9.020, -1.860 1.625, -1.860 23.000, -.500 12.500, -.500 22.375, -1.750 12.000, -3.688 2.125, -2.235 .500 Dia 2.187, -2.297 Corners for .125 end mill 8.438, -5.438 23.250, -2.500 16.250, -2.500 16.250, -5.500 19.250, -2.500 21.500, -2.500 19.250, -5.500 8.500, -5.500 1.000 .156 Dia (4 pl) 9.020, -5.500 1.625, -5.500 21.500, -6.400 3.375 Dia .125 Dia (4 pl) 2.062 Dia (4 pl) 2.000, -7.375 .750 23.000, -7.375 12.500, -7.375 25.000, -7.750 MountBarDashPanel 23.250, -6.400 2x2x.083 steel square tubing. 4.00x4.50x1/4" steel caster mounts - 3/8" holes on 2.75x3.25 centers. 4.000. 7.750. 1" square tubing. Engine Stand, Main Frame ...

Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis.pdf

This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.

Brakes - Classic Auto Supply
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Spacer - Brake Pedal Support to Body....................6.00 Gasket - Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer......................95 . NOW AVAILABLE: Brake drums made with detailed features per original specifications, balanced, and MADE IN THE USA. These are the best brake drums available! 1125A Front Brake Drum - 55/56....................................131.95 1125B Front Brake Drum - 57.........................................131.95 1126A Rear Brake Drum - 55/56.....................................131.95 1126B Rear Brake Drum - 57..........................................131.95 NOTE: BRAKE DRUMS SHIPPED AT ACTUAL COST 1193 Gasket - Front Brake Grease Baffle.........................1.05 2001 Disc brake pads.....................................................34.95 2004B Master Cylinder Repair Kit 1" Dia..........................25.98 . 2005 Booster Assy. - Power Brake - requires 2005D to convert to 56/57 T-Bird - Does not come with 2365A check valve . ..................................499.00 2005A Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 55................ 11.50 2005ASS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.22 2005B Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 56................ 11.50 2005BSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.25 2005C Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 57................12.25 2005CSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................18.25 2005CE Power Brake Booster Vac Line - Dual 4...................8.35 2005CESS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................10.45 2005D Power Brake Booster Line - To Convert Pass. Car Booster to T-Bird - 56/57.....................10.45 2005DSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................14.65 2005E Clip - To Hold 2005B & C to 9180 Brkt.....................1.85 2005F Rebuild Kit - Power Brake Booster (Does Not Include 2394)....................................178.00 2005G Vacuum Line - Flex - Power Brake Booster.............2.10 2005GE Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "E"..........3.15 2005GF Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "F"..........3.68 . Disc brakes now available See page 11 for details...

Troubleshooting Guide - Bepco, Inc.
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• Check for engine vacuum, make sure manifold is open and clear of carbon build up. • Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at the booster, do not guess. • Check vacuum hoses for soft spots, deterioration or collapse (replace hose if in doubt.) • Check brake pedal for binding. • Check the condition of the foundation brakes, drums, linings, and brake shoes for binding. • Check for air in Hydraulic System. • Check for any line restrictions. PEDAL KICKBACK • Check for dirt or foreign matter in Hydraulic System. • Before replacing the booster, remove the master cylinder to clean any dirt out. Also; Clean out the rest of the Hydraulic System. BRAKE WILL NOT RELEASE • Be sure a brake booster with residual check valve is not used with master cylinder with check valve. • On remote mountd boosters, disconnect the line between the master cylinder and the brake booster. • If the brakes release, the trouble is in the master cylinder (possibly the brake pedal is binding.) • If brakes do not release, disconnect the line from the booster to the wheel cylinders. • If the brakes release, the problem will be in the booster. • If brakes still do not release, the problem is in foundation brakes. • If brakes will not release on firewall mounted brake booster, disconnect the hydraulic line to the wheels. • If brakes release, the problem is in the booster or master cylinder (be sure the brake pedal is not binding.) LOW BRAKE PEDAL • Make sure master cylinder reservoir is full. • Check for air in the hydraulic system. • Make sure there are no leaks in the wheel cylinders, lines or fittings. • Check the foundation brakes for proper adjustment, cracked or over-sized drums. SPECIAL NOTES: Common Causes of Booster Failure

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