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• Do not abuse the cord. Never use the cord to carry the tools or pull the plug from an outlet. Keep cord away from heat, oil, sharp edges or moving parts. Replace damaged cords immediately. Damaged cords increase the risk of electric shock. • When operating a power tool outside, use an outdoor extension cord marked “W-A” or “W.” These cords are rated for outdoor use and reduce the risk of electric shock. When using an extension cord, be sure to use one heavy enough to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating. The following table shows the correct size to use depending on cord length and nameplate ampere rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier the cord. Minimum Gage for Cord Sets For Cable length (m): 7.5 15 25 30 45 60 Use Cable with minimum rating (Amperes) Tool Amperes 0 - 3.4 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 3.5 - 5.0 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 10 15 5.1 - 7.0 10 10 10 10 15 15 7.1 - 12.0 15 15 15 15 20 20 12.1 - 20.0 20 20 20 20 25
PACKAGE CONTENTS PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING. THIS WILL HELP YOU UNDERSTAND THE DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY AND WILL GIVE YOU INSIGHT TO THE TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NECESSARY TO SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE THE JOB. 1 Place car on jack stands. Check owner’s manual for correct jack points. Car should be at least 12 inches off the ground to allow the exhaust pieces enough clearance for removal and access to the lower hardware. Make sure the car is resting on all four jack stands securely. Open hood and place covers on fenders Remove engine cover by pulling upwards. Remove front wheels. 2 Remove wheelwell splash shields. Image shows location of fasteners. 3 Remove plastic undertray from bottom of engine bay. Image shows the location of fasteners. _________________ -2TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 4 Remove front bumper cover: Remove the screw holding bumper cover to the fender, about 1.0” back from wheel opening. Remove the 2 Phillip screws along with the 2 rubber buffers on top, between the head lamp and grill. R The rubber buffers come out by lifting the top rubber section with a thin flat blade screw driver. Gently raise this portion up to release the clip. Carefully pull bumper cover off part way and unplug outside air temp and fog lights if equipped. Then continue to remove bumper cover and set out of the way. _________________ -3TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 5 Drain Coolant : Loosen coolant fill cap on passenger side of engine bay. Remove drain plug, shown in photo. Drain coolant into large container and dispose of properly. Once coolant has finished draining, replace drain plug and tighten. Tighten coolant fill cap in engine bay. 6 Battery cover removal: Release the 3 clips shown in photo and lift cover. _________________ -4TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck cable behind battery. Remove the plastic clip securing the battery box duct (shown in photo, behind headlight) and lift out the duct assembly. 8 Remove air intake system: Squeeze both sides of the blue clip used to secure valvecover breather hose to rubber intake pipe and slide backwards to remove. Repeat process at the valvecover end of hose and remove. Unplug Airflow (MAF) sensor and temperature sensor. Loosen hose clamp attached to throttle body. Lift and unhook rubber strap securing airbox and lift whole airbox assembly straight up to remove. COVER THE OPEN THROTTLE BODY TO ENSURE NO FOREIGN MATERIAL GETS INSIDE DURING INSTALLATION
4 to 6 quarts of high-quality motor oil. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for the proper SAE viscosity, API performance or manufacturer motor oil specification and specific quantity required for your engine. Find more information by reading How to choose the right oil. A new oil filter. Most vehicles use a "spin-on" oil filter available in various shapes and sizes. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for the size and type appropriate for your vehicle. A drain plug socket wrench or open-end wrench (the exact size to fit your drain plug) An oil filter wrench A large drain pan (that can hold at least 5 to 7 quarts of fluid) A funnel A rag Hand cleaning solution and/or disposable latex gloves Safety glasses
Change the gear case oil with the engine stopped and the outboard in the vertical position. We suggest wearing nitrile gloves to protect your hands and facilitate clean-up. OIL LEVEL HOLE/BOLT 1. Place a suitable container below the oil drain hole to catch the used oil. Remove the oil drain bolt first, and then remove the oil level bolt. Tilt the outboard up slightly until the drain hole is at its lowest point. OIL DRAIN HOLE/BOLT Note: Be sure to use the proper tool when removing the oil drain and oil level plugs. If a normal screwdriver will not loosen the plugs, an impact driver should be used. The screwdriver blade should be a minimum of 10 mm x 1.5 mm to prevent damage to the drain and level plugs. Some plugs may have a Phillips head. Use a #3 Phillips bit, not a #2. O-RING 2. Allow the used oil to drain completely. OIL DRAIN BOLT If water or contaminated (milky-colored) oil flows out the drain hole when the plug is removed, or the oil is black and smells burned, have the outboard motor checked by an authorized Honda Marine dealer. NOTICE Improper disposal of gear case oil can be harmful to the environment. If you change your own oil, please dispose of the used oil properly. Put it in a sealed container, and take it to a recycling center. Do not discard it in a trash bin, dump it on the ground, or pour it down the drain.
How to change the oil and filter on a KTM LC4 Revised on 10-26 This guide pertains to the following models: Adventure, SMC, Duke II & LC4E and is intended for the beginner. Some of the “tricks” described may be advantageous to the more seasoned owner. By no means is this guide to be construed as the “best” or only way to do this job. It is simply the way that works for me. Read it at your own peril. If you have read the previously posted valve inspect/adjust guide, you already know I'm a big fan of a clean and tranquil work space. No pets, wife, kids, gerbils... whatever. Drifty likes to play his laid back blues music, ... but if Godsmack relaxes and focuses your mind... Crank it! Successful wrenching is good mental therapy... Tool list This list is for the ’03 and later 640 Adventure. There appear to be a number of fastener and plug variations for prior years. The most notable differences are the switch from “outside” to “inside” frame drain locations; the size of frame filler plug and the change from a cartridge filter cover oring to a gasket. Revison 10-26-04 After input from Rad, rapiti, Markjenn and dirtrider... we have come to the conclusion that KTM if fond of making running changes in production without updating reference material. As far as I can tell, in mid '01 KTM switched from the o-ring cartridge filter cover to a gasketed cover. The lower right frame section, unless someone has more accurate data, remained a oval tube until, as far as we can tell... mid '02, at which time the section was replace with a "low profile" casting, making filter cover access considerably easier. So, if you have a early '02 or earlier it will have oval tube... a late '02 or later will have the flat casting. With input from valued members, we will attempt to cover variations as they arrise, if someone runs into something important, let me know ...
Now you can make more out of this often forgotten, but critical part of the engine. Keep the oil in the pan and the cash flowing in - with the safest, most effective and most powerful drain plug program in the market. Protection + Performance + Profit INCREASE Profit per Repair Order Revenue Stream Options Positive Company Image Customer Retention Eco-protection /CSR Safe-sealing function: Insurance + Litigation Risk O-ring self-expands upon contact with engine oil to seal the pan from inside the thread. Oil Leaks on Driveways Anti-vibration function: O-ring counteracts self-loosening caused by engine vibration. Customer Complaints Engine + oil pan protection: Reduces risk of sudden oil loss which could lead to engine damage. Protects oil pan threads by eliminating need for excessive torque. ECO-protection: SKUs + Inventory High-tech o-ring expands upon exposure to engine oil Engine Oil Pollution
Program Highlights • Three levels of named component coverage • An exclusionary level of coverage • Eligible vehicles include current + 9 model years • Coverage terms up to 7 years/100,000 miles • Dealer profit participation reinsurance and retro programs available • Deductible options include $50, $100, $100 (disappearing) and $200 per repair visit • Advantage WRAP and Preferred WRAP coverage available • Transfer benefit • Additional benefits include: towing, jump-start, flat tire change, vehicle fluid delivery, lockout assistance, rental and hotel/motel reimbursement Coverage Levels Powertrain Gasoline/Diesel Engine: All internally lubricated parts, engine block, cylinder heads, exhaust manifold, expansion plugs, harmonic balancer, intake manifold, mounts, oil pan (excluding drain plug related failures), rotary engine rotor housing, timing belt/chain and tensioner, timing chain cover, valve covers, water pump, seals and gaskets (within component group). Surcharged coverage: supercharger/turbocharger (factory installed). Transmission: (Automatic, Standard or Transfer Case): All internally lubricated parts within the transmission including: cooler lines (metal), mounts, throttle valve cable, torque convertor, flywheel/flexplate, transmission and transfer case housing, transmission cooler, oil pan, vacuum modulator, external and internal control units, seals and gaskets Front/Rear-Wheel Drive: All internally lubricated parts within the drive/transaxle assembly including: axles and axle bearings, constant velocity joints/boots, drive axle housing, drive shaft support, differential cover, hub bearings, front hub locking assemblies, drive shaft, universal joints, four wheel drive actuator, seals and gaskets Fluids: All fluids in conjunction with a covered repair.
The Topaz MS Office Plug-In software allows users to electronically hand-sign an Excel spreadsheet using a Topaz signature pad and pen. Each embedded signature is bound solely to the content of the cells in the spreadsheet at the time it is signed so any changes made to the spreadsheet after signing renders the signature(s) invalid. If the file’s content is returned to the state it was when signed, then the signature will once again be valid. A signature is bound strictly to the cells in the sheet it is embedded in. Please note that form fields (such as drop down menus, radio buttons, etc.) are excluded from the binding process. Please make sure you first install the current version of SigPlus at this location: http://www.topazsystems.com/Software/download/sigplusactivex.htm Then, install the plug-in at this location: http://www.topazsystems.com/Software/download/plugins.htm If you open Excel and do not see the Add-Ins tab, click on the Office Button (File tab in Office 2010) > Excel Options > Add-Ins. At the bottom of the window, change the dropdown to Excel Add-ins and click Go. In the window that appears, you should see “Topaz Electronic Signatures” listed. Make sure it is checked. The signing window will then be displayed once the Sign Doc icon under the Add-Ins tab is clicked. Once the signing window is open, there are a number of options a user can choose: The “Cancel” button will cancel the signature event. The “Clear” button will clear any signature in the signature window, allowing the user to sign again. The “Done” button will bind the signature to the spreadsheet’s cell content and then embed it into the spreadsheet. The user can name the signature by using the specified field, “Signature Name:”, located below the buttons. A time and date stamp can be toggled by choosing one of the “Stamp”/ ”No
(Part Number 200-KT-V300D) The Racepak data acquisition system you have purchased for your Harley-Davidson Destroyer has been developed as a joint project between Harley-Davidson Engineering and Racepak Data Systems. It has been designed specifically for your motorcycle as a plug-and-play system. Harley-Davidson has built your motorcycle with a number of features already installed that will greatly ease the job of installing this Racepak system. It should be noted that, although similar in appearance, the components in this kit are purpose built and are not interchangeable with components from other Racepak data acquisition systems. GETTING STARTED One of the first things you should do is to insure that you have received all of the components needed to complete this installation. Racepak suggests that you lay out all of the items that you have received so you can identify and check off each of them from the list below. This will also help to familiarize you with each of the components in the kit. Your kit should include the following items: (1) V300 Harley-Davidson Destroyer Data Recorder. A (1) Two Channel Air/Fuel Controller. B (2) Air/Fuel Sensors with Cable. C (1) Wire Harness, Air/Fuel Controller to Sensors with Heater Wire. D (1) Mounting Bracket. E (2) V-Net Modules with Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensors. F (1) Adapter Cable, Wire Harness to Clutch RPM Sensor. G (1) Clutch RPM Sensor with Pigtail Cable. H (1) Wire Harness, with RPM & Analog Cable. I (1) Installation Manual.