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Engine Stand Test Procedures - Tronair

ROTATING ENGINE STANDS 1. Overall visually inspect stand for any signs of wear and fatigue. 2. Lubricate spindles and gear box as referenced in vendor literature if equipped. 3. Inspect anti-rotation locking mechanism if equipped. 4. Install weight equal to engine weight to the engine stand for approximately 2 min. 5. Rotate weight set 360º in both directions if equipped. Operation should be free of binding and/or catching during rotation. 6. Dismantle fixture and visually inspect stand for any signs of wear or failure. Any item, which does not successfully pass the test, is to be rejected and discarded or returned to Tronair for evaluation. Load Cell Data Load Cell Display Cylinder/Pump Eyebolt 2x4 Wood Block Install Weight To Stand 08-2030-0000 AND 08-2034-0000 1. Install engine stand test fixture. 2. Position beam assembly in the center of the engine stand. 3. Tighten beam locks evenly, until the beam assembly is locked in place. 4. Position engine stand over eye hook in floor. Line eye hook directly under pull point of the test fixture. 5. Install 2 x 4 inch block under wheels and lock stand in place. 6. Attach load cell, pull cylinder to eyebolt. 7. Put engine stand through two cycles of loading the engine stand to 3,000 pounds (2,667 psi on gauge). Hold for 30 seconds then release load. 8. Inspect all welds and joints for signs of distortion; if no defects are found, the engine stand is good. 9. If defects are found discard or return to Tronair for evaluation.

Power Brake Booster, Replacing.wps -

Power Brake Booster, Replacing Power Brake Booster, Replacing Preparation Disconnect the battery lead Removal Preparations for removing the power brake booster Switch off the ignition. Remove the cross member. (On 5 cylinder engines): Remove the screws and nuts from the engine mounting. Lift out the cross member. Remove the air cleaner (ACL) housing. Remove the plastic cap and the cable holder. Remove the integrated relay/fusebox. Preparations for removing the ABS unit Clean the brake pipes terminals at the master cylinder and ABS unit. Place paper under the master cylinder to avoid brake fluid spillage. Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder and the ABS unit. Plug the master cylinder socket for the brake pipes. Remove the ABS unit and bracket from the side member The unit is secured with three screws. NOTE: Store the ABS unit in such a way that no dirt can get into the pipe couplings. Preparations for removing the master cylinder NOTE: On cars with 6-cylinder engines: Disconnect the connectors from the master cylinder. Mark up a connector. Disconnect the connectors on the power brake booster. NOTE: If the car has hydraulic clutch: Block the hose to the clutch cylinder. Use hose pliers. Remove the master cylinder Avoid brake fluid spillage when removing. NOTE: Ensure that the gasket between the power brake booster and the master cylinder stays in place on the master cylinder. Remove the soundproofing panel and the power brake booster Transfer the components to the new power brake booster Transfer: ...


The reliability of automobile brake components is a very important issue from the point of view of safety. This thesis presents a combined experimental and numerical stress analysis of a vacuum booster. The booster consists of a thin-walled, closed shell that contains a diaphragm and a mechanical control system. The master cylinder which provides hydraulic pressure to the components on the wheels, is mounted directly on the booster shell using threaded bolts. The booster under consideration developed crack near one of these bolts during an endurance test. The numerical stress analysis conducted here demonstrated that significant stress concentration can be present on the booster shell near these mounting bolts. The numerical model was validated by direct comparison of meridional strains to experimental measurements at selected locations. The results also showed that increasing the wall thickness of the booster by 25% would allow the booster to successfully complete the endurance test. to the Blessed Mother of God, “Notre Dame”, Who inspired me to start my studies and then, every day, encouraged me to strive to the successful finish.

Booster W/Master Cyl. - Tuff Stuff Performance Accessories

Booster W/Master Cyl. Power Brake Booster w/Master Cylinder • Specific fit applications available in beautiful chrome plated or gold zinc finishes • 1” and 1-1/8” master cylinder bores work with disc/ disc, disc/drum, and drum/drum brake set-ups • Single and dual diaphragm styles available in 7”, 8”, 9” and 11” diameters to fit virtually all hot rods, customs and muscle cars • 100% all new components - and every unit is vacuum tested to insure reliability • Works with many stock mounting bracket set-ups and with Tuff Stuff bracket kits on page 36 GM A & F Body 2126NA GM A & F Body 1964 - 66 Style 2126N 9” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 studs Master Cylinder Chrome Gold Zinc 1-1/8” 2126NA 2126NB 2020 Dual reservoir GM A & F Body Bore 2071 Single reservoir 1” 2126NA-1 2126NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 1” 2126NA-2 2126NB-2 7-1/8 long pedal rod, 1-1/2" vertical mounting hole spacing GM A & F Body 1966 - 72 2127NA Style 2127N 11” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 stud Master Cylinder Bore Chrome Gold Zinc 2071 Dual reservoir 1-1/8” 2127NA 2127NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2127NA-1 2127NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 1” 2127NA-2 2127NB-2 Nova Chevy Nova 1962 - 67 Style 2133N 9” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 studs Master Cylinder Chrome Gold Zinc 2071 Dual reservoir 1-1/8” 2133NA 2133NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2133NA-1 2133NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 2133NA Bore 1” 2133NA-2 2133NB-2 3 Mounting studs GM Truck 1973 - 92 GM Truck Style 2132N 11” Dual Diaphragm Booster Combo, 10x1.5 metric Master Cylinder Gold Zinc 1”-1/8” 2132NA 2132NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2132NA-1 2132NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 30 Chrome 2071 Single reservoir 2132NA Bore 1” 2132NA-2 2132NB-2 3/8-16 Pedal rod length 1-800-331-6562 Booster W/Master Cyl. Power Brake Booster w/Master Cylinder • Specific fit applications available in beautiful chrome plated or gold zinc finishes • 1” and 1-1/8” master cylinder bores work with disc/ disc, disc/drum, and drum/drum brake set-ups • Single and dual diaphragm styles available in 7”, 8”, 9” and 11” diameters to fit virtually all hot rods, customs and muscle cars • 100% all new components - and every unit is vacuum tested to insure reliability • Works with many stock mounting bracket set-ups and with Tuff Stuff bracket kits on page 36 ...

Brakes - Classic Auto Supply
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Spacer - Brake Pedal Support to Body....................6.00 Gasket - Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer......................95 . NOW AVAILABLE: Brake drums made with detailed features per original specifications, balanced, and MADE IN THE USA. These are the best brake drums available! 1125A Front Brake Drum - 55/56....................................131.95 1125B Front Brake Drum - 57.........................................131.95 1126A Rear Brake Drum - 55/56.....................................131.95 1126B Rear Brake Drum - 57..........................................131.95 NOTE: BRAKE DRUMS SHIPPED AT ACTUAL COST 1193 Gasket - Front Brake Grease Baffle.........................1.05 2001 Disc brake pads.....................................................34.95 2004B Master Cylinder Repair Kit 1" Dia..........................25.98 . 2005 Booster Assy. - Power Brake - requires 2005D to convert to 56/57 T-Bird - Does not come with 2365A check valve . ..................................499.00 2005A Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 55................ 11.50 2005ASS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.22 2005B Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 56................ 11.50 2005BSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................17.25 2005C Power Brake Booster Vacuum Line - 57................12.25 2005CSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................18.25 2005CE Power Brake Booster Vac Line - Dual 4...................8.35 2005CESS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................10.45 2005D Power Brake Booster Line - To Convert Pass. Car Booster to T-Bird - 56/57.....................10.45 2005DSS Same As Above - Stainless Steel Line.................14.65 2005E Clip - To Hold 2005B & C to 9180 Brkt.....................1.85 2005F Rebuild Kit - Power Brake Booster (Does Not Include 2394)....................................178.00 2005G Vacuum Line - Flex - Power Brake Booster.............2.10 2005GE Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "E"..........3.15 2005GF Vacuum Line - Flex Powr Brk Boostr - 57 "F"..........3.68 . Disc brakes now available See page 11 for details...

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BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL OF BRAKE BOOSTER 1. REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER (See page BR–10) 2. DISCONNECT VACUUM HOSE FROM BRAKE BOOSTER 3. REMOVE PEDAL RETURN SPRING 4. REMOVE CLIP AND CLEVIS PIN 5. REMOVE BRAKE BOOSTER, GASKET AND CLEVIS BR–17 BRAKE SYSTEM – Brake Booster INSTALLATION OF BRAKE BOOSTER (See page BR–16) 1. ADJUST LENGTH OF BOOSTER PUSH ROD (a) Install the gasket on the master cylinder. (b) Set the SST on the gasket, and lower the pin until its tip slightly touches the piston. SST 09737–00010 (c) Turn the SST upside down, and set it on the booster. SST 09737–00010 (d) Measure the clearance between the booster push rod and pin head (SST). Clearance: 0 mm (0 in.) (e) Adjust the booster push rod length until the push rod lightly touches the pin head. 2. INSTALL BRAKE BOOSTER, GASKET AND CLEVIS (a) Install the booster and gasket. (b) Install the clevis. (c) Install and torque the booster mounting nuts. Torque: 13 N–m (130 kgf–cm, 9 ft–lbf ) 3. CONNECT CLEVIS TO BRAKE PEDAL Insert the clevis pin into the clevis and brake pedal and install the clip to the clevis pin. 4. INSTALL PEDAL RETURN SPRING 5. INSTALL MASTER CYLINDER (See page BR–15) 6. CONNECT HOSE TO BRAKE BOOSTER 7. FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM (See page BR–8) 8. CHECK FOR FLUID LEAKAGE 9. CHECK AND ADJUST BRAKE PEDAL (See page BR–6) 10. PERFORM OPERATIONAL CHECK (See page BR–7)

Bleeding Procedures - Bepco, Inc.
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CONTENTS, PART I - Consists of the bleeding procedure for the Hydraulic Brake Booster only. The Hydraulic Brake Booster works in conjunction with the Power Steering Pump and the Power Steering Gear. CONTENTS, PART II - Consists of bleeding procedure for the Brake System. The Brake System consists of the Master Cylinder and the Wheel Cylinders. The Hydraulic Booster System uses power steering fluid. IMPORTANT! The Brake System uses hydraulic brake fluid. THESE SYSTEMS ARE SEPERATE! USE OF THE WRONG FLUID TYPE WILL CAUSE SEAL DAMAGE TO OCCUR. DO NOT MIX THE TWO SYSTEMS! PART I BLEEDING PROCEDURES FOR THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE BOOSTER 1. Fill power steering pump reservoir with power steering fluid. 2. Start engine and run for approximately two seconds then shut off engine. 3. Check fluid level; add as required. 4. Repeat steps two and three until (power steering reservoir) fluid retains constant level. 5. Raise the front of the vehicle until the height has cleared the tires. 5-a. Run engine at 1000 to 1500rpm. 5-b. Depress brake pedal several times. 5-c. Turn steering right and left, making light contact with wheel stops. 6. Turn the engine off, recheck reservoir fluid, and add if needed. 7. Lower the vehicle and repeat steps 5-a, 5-b, 5-c and 6. 8. If pedal is up and firm, the vehicle is ready for road testing. 9. If reservoir fluid is extremely foamy, let the vehicle stand with engine off for one hour, then recheck. Section I - Trouble Shooting & Guidelines • Page 9 SECTION I - TROUBLE SHOOTING & GUIDELINES PART II - ALL VACUUM UNITS - BLEEDING PROCEDURES IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT ALL BRAKE BLEEDING BE PERFORMED WITH A PRESSURE BLEEDER. IF ONE IS NOT AVAILABLE, USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:...

Troubleshooting Guide - Bepco, Inc.
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• Check for engine vacuum, make sure manifold is open and clear of carbon build up. • Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at the booster, do not guess. • Check vacuum hoses for soft spots, deterioration or collapse (replace hose if in doubt.) • Check brake pedal for binding. • Check the condition of the foundation brakes, drums, linings, and brake shoes for binding. • Check for air in Hydraulic System. • Check for any line restrictions. PEDAL KICKBACK • Check for dirt or foreign matter in Hydraulic System. • Before replacing the booster, remove the master cylinder to clean any dirt out. Also; Clean out the rest of the Hydraulic System. BRAKE WILL NOT RELEASE • Be sure a brake booster with residual check valve is not used with master cylinder with check valve. • On remote mountd boosters, disconnect the line between the master cylinder and the brake booster. • If the brakes release, the trouble is in the master cylinder (possibly the brake pedal is binding.) • If brakes do not release, disconnect the line from the booster to the wheel cylinders. • If the brakes release, the problem will be in the booster. • If brakes still do not release, the problem is in foundation brakes. • If brakes will not release on firewall mounted brake booster, disconnect the hydraulic line to the wheels. • If brakes release, the problem is in the booster or master cylinder (be sure the brake pedal is not binding.) LOW BRAKE PEDAL • Make sure master cylinder reservoir is full. • Check for air in the hydraulic system. • Make sure there are no leaks in the wheel cylinders, lines or fittings. • Check the foundation brakes for proper adjustment, cracked or over-sized drums. SPECIAL NOTES: Common Causes of Booster Failure

Brake Booster.pdf - Ken Gilbert
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9. Brake Booster A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts at engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector for brake fluid level indicator. (2) Remove the brake pipes from master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installing nuts. (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin (2) Four brake booster installing nuts • Use care when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. If it has been changed, reset the projected length “L” to standard length. Standard L 10.05 mm (0.40 in) L BR-00074 (1) CAUTION: If external force is applied from above when the brake booster is placed in this position, the resin portion as indicated by “P”, may be damaged. (1) (2) P (3) BR-00075 (4) (1) Force BR-00073 (1) (2) (3) (4) B: INSTALLATION Nuts Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod 1) Adjust the operating rod of brake booster. 3) Remove the brake booster while shunning brake pipes. Standard L 144.6 mm (5.69 in) If it is not within specified value, adjust it by adjusting the brake booster operating rod. NOTE: • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. The brake booster should be discarded if it has been dropped. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, sufficient to cause a change in the angle in excess of ±3°, it may result in damage to the power piston cylinder. BR-38 L BR-00076 BRAKE BOOSTER BRAKE 2) Mount the brake booster in position. 3) Connect the operating rod to brake pedal with clevis pin and snap pin. CAUTION: Be careful not to rotate the stop light switch. Stop light switch clearance: A 0.3 mm (0.012 in) (1) A BR-00079

Tom Rosario GM Master Cylinder/ Brake Booster Assembly

Low brake pedal, DTC stored in ECBM. Owners of a slew of 2009-13 GM cars and light trucks (complete application list below) may complain that their brake pedal feels very low or sinks to the floor on brake application. Upon scanning the brake system, you may find DTC C027B logged in the ECBM. One likely cause of the trouble, reports GM, is a small vacuum leak between the master cylinder and the brake booster. A missing or dislodged O-ring is the source of the leakage. The illustration at right shows a typical GM master cylinder/brake booster arrangement. The O-ring should fit over the raised area on the cylinder and into a small groove in the booster, as shown. So what causes the O-ring to dislodge or go missing? Removing the master cylinder without pumping the brake pedal several times to exhaust the vacuum in the booster. This typically occurs, says GM, when the cylinder is disconnected and moved aside to get to another component for repair. Repositioning or installing a new O-ring should eliminate the vacuum leak and subsequent pedal issues. Vehicles that are prone to the trouble are 2009-12 Chevy Colorados and GMC Canyons; 2009-13 Cadillac CTS & SRX models, Chevy Corvettes, Impalas, Malibus, Traverses and GMC Acadias; 2010-12 Buick LaCrosse models; 2010-13 Chevy Camaros & Equinoxes and GMC Terrains; 201113 Buick Regal and Chevy Cruze models; 2012 Chevy Captiva Sports;...

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