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This is a limited power-train warranty for a period of 3 months from the date of the original sale or 3000 miles from the mileage at the time of the original sale, (whichever occurs first), for repairs which are required as a result of defects due to material and/or workmanship to the power-train components as listed below: What Is Covered Engine All internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings, piston pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and bearings, camshaft and bearings, timing chain or belt, timing gears, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, valve guides, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shafts, hydraulic and solid lifters;. The engine block and heads are also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered components. Transmission All internal parts; torque converter; vacuum modulator and mounts. Does not include clutch assembly; pressure plate; flywheel; throw out bearing; worn synchronizers; cables or electrical items. The case is also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered items. Drive Axle All lubricated internal parts contained within the housings. Axle shafts, differential housing, transaxle housing & final drive housing.
HONDA CLAIM RULE - For GX120 QMA Type Engines 1. All engine claims must follow procedure listed in QMA rulebook. Please see Article 6, Section 1 HONDA SUSPENSIONS 1. All suspensions must follow procedure listed in QMA rulebook. Please see Article 6, Section 2 GENERAL RULES Only stock Honda GX120K1HX2 engine and gearbox will be used in this class. All parts will be stock Honda specifically made for the Honda GX12OK1 HX2. U.S. = GCAHK. Canada = GCAAT UY-2 = GCBMT Honda replacement block 12000-Z0S-416 IS ALLOWED All stock Honda parts must be used and properly installed with the following exceptions: The following (listed below) gaskets that are coming from Honda are tan & green will be legal to use Intake Gasket, Carb Gasket, Side Cover Gasket A. Governor System may be partially or fully removed with the exception of the steel drive gear on the crankshaft. This gear must remain intact. If shaft is removed hole must be plugged. Hole can be tapped for thread or epoxy. No welding. B. Factory air cleaner must be removed. Any air filter may be attached to the outside of air filter adapter. Outer wear style or equivalent can be used over carburetor only with no adapter. The approved air filter adapter may be run with or without an air filter. Any air filter may be used with adapter as long as there are no devices inside the air filter or adapter. (I.E. Springs not allowed) Hose from valve cover must go into a catch can. (We are using “outerwear” to define a style not brand name). 1. The use of air filters during qualifying at asphalt and dirt events is illegal. The Senior Tech. Official reserves the right to allow filters at any event that it’s deemed necessary. C. Stock Honda fuel tank must be removed. D. Recoil starter must be removed. Pull cup may be cut down for washer. Must use original cup. E. Exhaust: Stock Honda muffler will be removed. Mounting flange may be cut off of muffler and used as adapter flange. Any transition from the “D” shape of the exhaust port to round must take place with in the thickness (0.250” max.) of the flange. This applies to all exhaust systems. No steps or tapers allowed, pipe must be 1piece continuous pipe from flange or slip nipple to muffler coupler. No sections of pipe welded together (BUTT WELDS). grind marks are allowed past 0.250” flange area. No suspension for exhaust flange or pipe infraction just disqualification. If an after market flange is used, maximum allowable flange thickness will be 0.250 inches. If slip on type flange assembly is used, pipe stub will be a maximum 0.880 inches outside diameter tubing with a maximum overall length of 1.500” inches. Pipe stub must be inserted into exhaust pipe at least 0.750 inches and will have minimal exhaust leakage. Muffler to be used will be 4 to 8 hp Briggs & Stratton, part number 294599 or equal equivalent. Muffler will be internally unaltered except that the round cup shaped baffle may be welded to the perforated baffle without moving its original location. Threads will not be removed from muffler. Exhaust pipe will be a maximum of 1.000” inches outside diameter with a length of 20.0” to 26.0” including a threaded pipe coupler to welded to the end of
e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org SALES TEAM STOCKS ARE LIMITED GERSON EXT 213/214 PLEASE PHONE (011)334-1031 SHERAZ EXT 212/202 FOR BEST PRICING ANDRE EXT 216 FAX (011)334-0921 KEN EXT 215 101.001 SLEEVE SEALS BLACK 1.9/2.1 101.004 CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL GOLF/ JETTA 101.005 REAR MAIN OIL SEAL FLANGE MK1/2 101.007 GOLF 4 SEAL FLANGE CRANKSHAFT 101.021 REAR OIL SEAL + FLANGE MK1/2/3/POLO 102.035 THERMOSWITCH GOLF2 103.035 F/INJ BREATHER PIPE GROMMET GOLF/ JETTA 103.039 GOLF/ JETTA CYL.HEAD GASKET 1.6/1.8 103.041 CYL HEAD GASK -T/PORTER 2.5 - 103.042 GOLF 3/POLO RUBBER T/GASKET 103.046 SUMP GASKET RUBBER MK 1/2/3/POLO 103.048 GOLF/ JETTA TAPPET COVER GASKET 103.054 UNIVERSAL WALSH PLUG 36.6MM 103.065 POLO BARE CYCLINDER HEAD 103.072 1.9 TDI /POLO RUBBER TAP.GASKET 103.073 GOLF 4 1.9 TDI TAPPET GASKET EARLY 103.074 POLO 1.4 TAPPET COVER GASKET 103.076 GOLF 2.0 CYL HEAD GASKET METAL 103.663 AUDI A4 DIPSTICK FUNNEL GUIDE LONG 103.664 MK4 POLO CRANKSHAFT GEAR 103.666 D/STICK GUIDE LONG 104.057 GOLF OIL CAP 104.062 OIL FILTER W/ RELIEF VALVE - GOLF 104.063 DIPSTICK - GOLF 105.067 GOLF SUMP PLUG BOLT 105.902 GOLF 4 TDI /GTI OIL SUMP W/SENSOR HOLE 106.073 CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR GOLF/ JETTA/ AUDI 106.074 GOLF 1/2/3 TAPPET COVER 107.084 AUDI 500 / A6 TENSIONER 107.085 GOLF 4/AUDI A3/A4 1.6 & 2L TENSIONER 107.087 FAN BELT TENSIONER GOLF 3 107.088 UPPER CAMBELT COVER GOLF/ JETTA 107.089 LOWER CAMBELT COVER GOLF/ JETTA 107.094 CAMBELT TENSIONER MK 4/PASSAT 1.9TDI (AFN MOTORS ONLY) 107.096 TENSIONER ALT. PWR ST. BELT POLO 1.4/1.6 / CADDY 107.098 VR6 TENSIONER DAMPER 107.100 GOLF 4/POLO ROLLER TIMING BELT 107.101 POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY GOLF 2 107.103 CAMBELT VIBRATION DAMPER EARLY 107.104 AUDI A4/A6 CAMBELT TENSIONER V6 MULTI VALVE 97 UP 107.105 AUDI A4 VIBRATION DAMPER 107.106 ROLLER CAMBELT GOLF MK 4/PASSAT 1.9TDI (AFN MOTORS ONLY) 107.900 ROLLER + BRACKET TOP POLO 1.4 16 VALVE TOP 107.902 CAMBELT TENSIONER AUDI A4 107.903 TENSIONER AUDI A4 ENGINE CODE AEB 107.907 TDI ALL TEN.ROLLER LATE 107.908 POLO 1.4 DAMPER TENSIONER 107.909 AUDI A4 TEN.ROLLER 109.103 1800 KOMBI OIL PUMP 109.104 OIL PUMP GOLF 8 VALVE (ROP83030/OP250) 109.109 KOMBI 2.5 OIL PUMP (ROP83048) 109.200 AUDI A3 CHAIN TENSIONER 111.112 MK3 FLANGE BLOCK OFF 111.114 WATER METAL PIPE FUEL INJ. MK3 111.117 GOLF THERMOSTAT 111.118 MK.3 CYL.HEAD FLANGE 111.118x WATER FLANGE GOLF3/ GOLF 4 & POLO (MILLENIUM) 111.119 MK 1/2 CYL HEAD FLANGE 111.121 WATER BOTTLE CAP KOMBI W/PIPE
When Suzuki engineers began designing the GSX1300R they set out to produce a motorcycle so advanced that it didn’t fit in any established categories. A motorcycle with breathtaking acceleration, nimble handling, and world-class fit and finish. A machine so advanced it demanded a new performance category: Ultimate Sport. With Suzuki’s experience in building high-performance motorcycles, meeting the engine performance goals and building an excellent chassis wouldn’t be a problem. But to make this kind of performance seem effortless would be the ultimate challenge. One of the engineers recalled seeing the incredible flight of a small Falcon indigenous to Japan called Hayabusa. The Hayabusa is not the biggest or strongest bird in Japan, but it has the amazing ability to slice through the air reaching speeds of over 186 mph, making normal flight seem effortless. The engineer realized he had discovered the key element to the design. Make the bike able to slice through the air like a Hayabusa and normal performance would be almost effortless. It would be the most aerodynamic Suzuki ever built and it would be called the Hayabusa. Suzuki engineers used an integrated design approach with careful thought given to engine type, size, placement, as well as rider position and airflow over every part of the bike. Maximum aerodynamic efficiency required a precise fairing shape which could not be achieved with conventional headlights and turn signals. By blending the front turn signals in the fairing and using a unique projector beam headlight, the CdA became the lowest of any Suzuki ever produced. The turn signals also help force air into the ram-air intake tracts which have been carefully placed near the point of maximum air pressure. Meeting the performance goal required a powerful yet compact, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine – the most powerful four-cylinder ever built by Suzuki. Based on experience from unlimited-class road racing, the engine developed some impressive specifications: 1298cc, liquid-cooled with additional oil-jet cooling, DOHC 16-valves with a narrow 14º valve angle, electronic fuel injection with ram-air intake, direct ignition, gear-driven counterbalancer to reduce vibration and a six-speed transmission with a large capacity clutch. To keep the engine compact the cam chain is driven from the right side of a short, five-journal crankshaft. The GSX1300R chassis is built around an aluminum alloy twin-spar frame and bridged aluminum swingarm. Supporting the frame are fully adjustable, 43mm inverted forks with 120 mm of wheel travel, and a link-type rear suspension with a fully adjustable shock absorber and 140mm of wheel travel. Wide radial tires are mounted on cast aluminum wheels provide plenty of traction, while six-piston front brake calipers with large 320 mm rotors and a twin-piston rear caliper with a 240 mm rotor provide powerful braking performance. The Hayabusa has many other convenience features such as a hinged fuel tank for easier maintenance, storage area for a U-lock and full instrumentation including a fuel gauge, twin-tripmeters, and even a LCD-type fuel consumption gauge. With all these features and outstanding performance, the 1999 GSX1300R Hayabusa is truly in a class of its own: Ultimate Sport.
1993 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Chrysler Corp./Mitsubishi On-Vehicle Adjustments Dodge; Stealth Mitsubishi; Diamante, 3000GT ENGINE MECHANICAL Before performing any on-vehicle adjustments to fuel or ignition system, ensure engine mechanical condition is okay. VALVE CLEARANCE NOTE: Diamante, Stealth and 3000GT models use hydraulic lash adjusters, valve adjustment is not necessary. CHECKING HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTERS 1) Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Remove valve cover. Position cylinder No. 1 at TDC on compression stroke. Check intake rockers on cylinders No. 1 and 2. Check exhaust rockers on cylinders No. 1 and 3. 2) Push downward on end of rocker arm above lash adjuster. Rotate crankshaft 360 degrees and check intake rockers on cylinders No. 3 and 4. Check exhaust rockers on cylinders No. 2 and 4. If lash adjuster is normal, it will feel solid. 3) If lash adjuster moves downward easily when pushed, replace adjuster. If lash adjuster feels soft or spongy, air has probably entered lash adjuster. If this occurs, check engine oil level. If engine oil level is okay, check oil screen and oil screen gasket for damage. 4) After repairing cause of air leak, warm engine to operating temperature. Drive vehicle at low speed for approximately 5 minutes. Turn engine off for a few minutes. 5) Restart engine and drive at low speed for approximately 5 minutes. Repeat this step several times for about one hour. This helps remove air from engine oil. IGNITION TIMING NOTE: Perform all adjustments with engine at normal operating temperature, cooling fan and accessories off, transmission in Park or Neutral, and front wheels in straight-ahead position. NOTE: Adjustment of ignition timing cannot be performed on vehicles equipped with Distributorless Ignition Systems (DIS). If ignition timing is not within specification, see CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR in I - SYS/COMP TESTS article in this section. 1) Locate ignition timing adjustment connector. See IGNITION TIMING ADJUSTMENT CONNECTOR LOCATION table. Connect jumper wire between ignition timing adjustment connector and ground. Check ignition basic timing. 2) If ignition basic timing is not within specification, loosen distributor and rotate to adjust timing if necessary. See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. Remove jumper wire from ignition timing adjustment connector. IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS TABLE (Degrees BTDC @ RPM)
Installation tips – changing timing belts Described using the Renault Clio II 1.6 16V engine code K4M 748 as an example Renault installs a large number of the Clio II 1.6 16V engine, with differing engine displacement, in their vehicles. When the timing belts are changed, critical mistakes are made again and again that have a negative effect on the belt drive. To ensure that changing the belts goes smoothly, ContiTech Power Transmission Group is providing mechanics with a detailed list of installation tips. Step by step, ContiTech experts explain how to replace belts correctly. When the timing belts are changed, the tension pulley, the guide pulley and the water pump should be replaced, too. Renault recommends a belt change every 100,000 km for all models up to 1999, and every 120,000 km for all later models, or for low mileages. In order to do this, mechanics require a crankshaft locking pin, Renault tool code MOT1489, and a camshaft alignment ruler, Renault tool code MOT1496. The working time is for the Clio about 2.7, for the Mégane 3.6, for the Mégane Scénic 3.9 and for the Laguna 2.5 hours. Preparatory work: Identify the vehicle using the engine code on the engine block (Fig. 1). Disconnect the vehicle's battery.
Congratulations, you have purchased the finest flywheel for both increased engine performance and engine life! Instructions for removal and re-installation of your flywheel and clutch assembly can be found in most factory service manuals or through various online resources. *Please follow the OEM recommendations for installation of your new flywheel with the following notes in mind: BASIC FITMENT NOTES: CENTERBORE/CRANK BOSS: Because of standard variances in OEM factory manufacturing tolerances, the aluminum flywheel to crankshaft boss fit may vary from slip-fit to slight interference. Aluminum expands at twice the rate of steel so that in order to retain a tight fit when the engine and flywheel reaches operating temperature — the aluminum flywheel has to go on tighter at ambient temperature. Excessive flywheel runout can be evidence of improper fit. If interference is present, check to see that when the flywheel bolts are torqued, the flywheel is pulled tight against the crankshaft mating surface and that there is no excessive runout. Remove flywheel and inspect for evidence of improper fit. Interference at the crankshaft “boss” can be corrected by removing excessive material with a 3-cornered scraper or by heating the flywheel on an electric "hot plate" to temporarily expand the center bore for correct mounting. Never leave the hot plate unattended. Caution, flywheel will be hot, use care when handling! WARNING: Do not use Loctite on the crank register because it prevents the flywheel from properly seating against the crank. ALIGNMENT, BOLT UP & MOUNTING: Many flywheel applications feature a locating/alignment hole designed to match up to a factory locator dowel, boss or hole on the engine crankshaft flange and assure proper alignment of the flywheel. Please make sure your flywheel is properly aligned using these locator elements when installing. On some applications, like Ford flywheels (e.g. #186501) no locator dowel was used, and the actual crank bolt pattern is ASYMMETRICAL (not equal in dimensions) so that the flywheel may be installed in only one orientation. These type applications may require you to “clock” or rotate the flywheel several times until ALL bolt holes align correctly before installing your crank bolts. Always use OE or higher quality hardware when installing your flywheel and clutch. Fidanza flywheels are designed to use OE spec hardware unless special hardware is provided. Please DO NOT use lock style washers as this will brinell the aluminum and may damage your flywheel. Please DO use a small amount of Loctite on crank bolts where needed to ensure they remain properly tightened. Again, please refer to your factory service manual for correct torque specs, tightening pattern, etc. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN/OVERTORQUE CRANK OR CLUTCH BOLTS AS THIS MAY DAMAGE YOUR FLYWHEEL! Threaded clutch bolt holes are USS (coarse thread) or standard Metric as this is stronger for aluminum. If your flywheel uses dowels for the clutch, the dowels should be pressed in with a vise. You must apply a small amount of permanent Loctite on each dowel before installation (not required for step dowels). Follow the OEM torque specifications for the flywheel to crank bolts and clutch mounting bolts. Wipe the friction surface with brake cleaner to remove protective film or any contaminants just before clutch installation. BELLHOUSING AND BLOCK CLEARANCES: All Fidanza Performance flywheels are designed to OE dimensions and clearances unless specifically noted. Test the flywheel and clutch that you plan to use for rotational clearance inside of the bellhousing and for engine block clearance before final assembly. Normal manufacturing tolerances with the factory bellhousing, oil pan, sensors, engine block and or any other area that could cause clearance problems must be checked prior to final assembly. The flywheel application fitments have been derived using the best possible sources, but end user MUST verify fitment before installation! TRIGGERS: Fidanza Performance flywheels are equipped with trigger rings or the provision to accept the OE trigger rings where required. For vehicles equipped with sensors triggered off of the flywheel, please measure the clearance between the flywheel and trigger/sensor before removal of the original flywheel. This clearance MUST be matched after installation of your new flywheel. This may require shimming for clearance or moving the sensor in as needed. Some factory sensors are adjustable (please see your factory...
After explaining the situation to the Tech people at ARP, they made the following recommendations: The experts at ARP have developed the Premium Grade Pro Series, originally developed for NASCAR competition. They are forged from an aerospace alloy and heat-treated. The threads are rolled, not cut. These bolts are rated at 200,000 PSI – far stronger than any original factory flywheel bolt, and stronger than the replacement bolts we currently offer. The underside of the head has a step that is dead flat and perfectly smooth. The length of the bolt under the head is 7/8”. The distinctive flat 12-point head design makes them instantly recognizable. 1) Check the surface of the flywheel where the underside of the bolt head will make contact. If it is badly chewed up, that will need to be cleaned up or you will not achieve proper torque on the bolts. 2) Do not use the originally fitted lock tabs. The lock tabs are relatively soft compared to the bolt and the flywheel, and this could lead to inaccurate torque readings which is a serious problem. Even if that were not a concern, the 12-point design of the ARP bolt head makes it very hard to fold up a section of the lock tab in a way that will actually lock the bolt in place. 3) Regardless of whether or not your application used lock tabs, ARP says that you’re much better off using a non-permanent Loctite (blue) on the threads. That will prevent the bolts from working loose. 4) Put a drop or two of ARP Ultra-Torque® Lubricant (Moss 322-815) on the underside of the bolt head. This will reduce the friction between the bolt and the surface of the flywheel. 5) Torque the bolts to the original factory specification. These bolts (like any bolt) exert a clamping force pressing the flywheel and crankshaft flange together because when torqued properly, the bolt stretches a very small amount. Bumping up the torque applied “to be sure” can have serious consequences. M:\Product Information\322-191\Docs\322-191_Flywheel Bolts_Supplemental Instructions.doc Created by Michael Grant on 16 November 2012 Revised by Michael Grant 31 July
FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Do not reuse flywheel to crank bolts- Regardless of the bolts to be used they must be checked for proper length (See illustration below). Whether purchasing new OEM, ARP or their equivalent modifying may be necessary. Make sure that the flywheel bolts thread properly into the crankshaft smooth with no binding. If binding is felt, it may be necessary to “chase” the threads with a proper thread chaser. IMPORTANT-CHECK BOLT LENGTH Flywheel Tighten the flywheel bolt into the crankshaft. Note measurement “B”. Because of the complexity of some applications Clutch Masters recommends professional installation. If you are capable follow your factory service manual for removal and installation. If you are using other than OEM fasteners tighten flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel bolts per that manufacturer’s recommendations. It is important not to allow any threadlocker to seep between the flywheel and the crankshaft flange. The following procedure is the correct method: 1. Using torque plate (if supplied) insert and tighten all fasteners evenly in a cross hatch pattern to 20 ft/lb. 2. Removing one fastener at a time apply Loctite® threadlocker or equivalent to the flywheel bolt threads re-install and tighten to 20ft/lb. Continue with the remaining fasteners. 3. Continue to torque all flywheel-to crankshaft bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. FLYWHEEL FASTENER TORQUE GUIDE IMPORTANT: If fasteners are supplied or a non yield to torque fastener is used see the bolt torque chart for specifications. Improper tightening could cause the fasteners to fail. Do not use an impact driver to tighten flywheel-tocrankshaft bolts. Flywheel to Crank Bolt Dia FT/lbs Pressure Plate to Flywheel nm Bolt Dia FT/lbs nm 75 8x1.0 20 27 10X1.0 55 10X1.25 65 88 8x1.25 20 27 12X1.0 87 118 7x1.0 15 20 12X1.25 96 130 5/16-24 20 27 12X1.5 80 108 5/16-18 20 27 If fastener is not listed use OEM torque specifications clutchmasters.com Call: (909) 877-6800
PLEASE READ The end user must verify fitment before installation. Please take a moment to read these instructions in their entirety before you begin the installation Professional installation is recommended. The following flywheel installation tips will help guarantee that your new flywheel will perform to the highest OEM standards. Aasco Motorsports flywheels are manufactured to the highest quality and will perform to OEM specifications if installed and used as designed. Aasco Motorsports flywheels are Zero-Balanced from our factory. Aasco Motorsports flywheels may include a torque plate, fasteners for the flywheel to crank as well as pressure plate hardware depending on the application. The torque plate in all cases must be used if supplied. Aasco Motorsports flywheels are designed to replace your OE single or dualmass flywheel utilizing the stock pressure plate unless otherwise specified. We recommend always replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing with new good quality OEM or aftermarket parts. Do not reuse flywheel to crank bolts- Regardless of the bolts to be used they must be checked for proper length (See illustration below). Whether purchasing new OEM, ARP or their equivalent modifying may be necessary. Make sure that the flywheel bolts thread properly into the crankshaft smooth with no binding. If binding is felt, it may be necessary to “chase” the threads with a proper thread chaser. Aasco Motorsports is not responsible for any damage resulting from the incorrect length or quality of fastener. Pre-installation check Remove the flywheel from the package and clean all rust preventative solution from the flywheel surface using a degreasing solvent such as brake clean. Failure to do so may cause premature clutch failure. Applications with reluctors (Trigger wheels) on the flywheel. Compare by setting the OEM flywheel on top of the Aasco Motorsports flywheel with the crank holes lined up to verify reluctor position. Check release bearing, release bearing guide tube and or clutch fork for wear and replace if necessary. Check for any sign of oil leaks. If an oil leak is found repair the seals or gaskets as necessary.