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Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
No. BPI 10-06 Subject: Temporary reduction in power brake assist in extreme cold weather Vehicles Involved: Models: 2009 BUICK ENCLAVE 2009 CHEVROLET TRAVERSE 2009 GMC ACADIA 2009 SATURN OUTLOOK From 9J100008 From 9S100002 From 9J100016 From 9J100003 to to to to 9J190898 9S143268 9J190899 9J190888 Condition: If the brake check valves are NOT installed correctly, an increased amount of brake pedal effort will be required to obtain brake function, and the brake assist system will NOT perform as designed. Repair: Replace the first design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (1) with a second design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (2). An arrow on the second design check valve indicates the vacuum draw direction (3). 1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield (engine cover) from the engine. 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 Determine where the two brake booster vacuum hose check valves are located. Refer to callouts 1 and 2 in the illustration 2. Release the quick connect (4) from the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 3. Remove the protective wrap (5) from the brake booster vacuum hose to locate check valve # (1). 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 4. Remove the check valve (1) from the brake booster vacuum hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 5. Remove the check valve (2) from the brake booster hose that routes to the intake manifold vacuum port (6). Note If necessary, a small amount of denatured alcohol can be used as an assembly aid for installing the vacuum hose to the manifold vacuum port. Do not use soap. 6. Install a new check valve (1) to the brake booster hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). Ensure the arrow on the check valve (1) ...
(2) Four brake booster installation nuts A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts in the engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector of brake fluid level gauge. (2) Remove the brake pipe from the master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installation nut. (1) CAUTION: In order to prevent the contact of the bracket and check valve, be sure to loosen the master cylinder mounting nut while holding the bracket with hand. Otherwise it may deform the bracket. (1) Check valve (2) Bracket (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from the pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin Nut Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod Brake pedal 3) Remove the brake booster while avoiding the brake pipe. NOTE: • Make sure that the booster shell and vacuum pipe are not subject to strong impacts. • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. If the booster is dropped, replace it. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, the angle may change by r3°, and it may result in damage to power piston cylinder. • Be careful when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. CAUTION: • Do not disassemble the brake booster.
Chase Bays 240sx Booster Delete Brake Line Relocation Kit Install Guide What is included? •(1) Stainless steel engine bay hard line •(6) Stainless braided/Teflon coated crimped brake lines •(1) -‐3AN Bulkhead Tee fitting (Gold in color) •(1) Female -‐3AN Tee Fitting w/ male fitting on leg (Black in color) •(2) Straight -‐3AN Bulkheads (1) 90 degree -‐3AN Bulkhead (4) Bulkhead nuts •(1) -‐3AN tube nut (for rear line) •(1) -‐3AN tube sleeve (for rear line) •(1) Wilwood Proportioning Valve with -‐3AN male fittings •Uninstall all OEM Brake hard lines and Booster/Master Cylinder. •Install your Chase Bays Brake Booster Delete Kit. Start with drilling your engine bay hole. Install the hard line to help line up the hole correctly.
Suzuki Hayabusa & GSX-R 1000 Cylinder Head Price Sheet Vance & Hines Motorsports has the experience and most up to date computer controlled machines for every facet of engine preparation and performance parts. Byron Hines engines and pro heads have set more records and won more races than anyone else in motorcycle drag racing. Vance & Hines Motorsports also offers comprehensive head packages for Road Racing, Motorcross and Supercross engines. Hayabusa Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Cam Cut (Cam Caps) (.425 Lift & above) 99-07 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers 08 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets $ 100.00 $ 150.00 $ 365.63 $ 399.00 $ 45.00 $ 360.00 $ 698.00 $ 145.00 GSX-R 1000 Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 SF-1020 Flowbench Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Bore Lifter Buckets Valve Springs Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets...
RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.
Bi-Fuel CNG Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab Built for you. Propelled by innovation. When it comes to managing budgets and keeping an eye on the environment, business owners and fleet managers alike face many challenges. That’s where GM’s Bi-Fuel Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab comes in. It’s designed to help businesses reduce their fuel costs and environmental impact. ENGINEERED BY GM The Bi-Fuel Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab uses a proven, 6.0L Vortec V-8 engine with factory-installed hardened intake and exhaust valves and valve seats. Unlike aftermarket solutions, the engine and all CNG fuel system components are engineered to meet GM’s rigorous standards for reliability, dependability and safety. GM’s validation tests include: full barrier testing (six separate tests), 10-year corrosion, mud trough, water fording, hot-weather evaluation (including trailering), cold-weather chamber testing, altitude testing and fuel gauge accuracy, among others. • The system automatically and seamlessly switches from CNG to gasoline when the CNG tank has been depleted. It also provides the flexibility to manually switch between the two fuels at any time.
How Do No-Spill™ Systems Work? Some Frequently Asked Questions About No-Spill™ Systems How do the drain plugs work? No-Spill Systems patented draining design has a stainless steel, spring-loaded valve inside the drain plug. This valve remains closed until No-Spill Systems patented drainer is attached to the drain plug. Once the drainer seals itself, the valve opens and the oil begins to drain through the hose. Do I need a drainer for every vehicle? No. The drainers are designed to fit all of the plugs within a series (i.e. one Large Straight Drainer fits all large bottom plugs in the Standard series). What series is correct for me? The series depends on the application, and style of draining. Standard plugs are common where clearance is not an issue. Compact plugs are used where clearance is a concern. Speed Click plugs are very popular with all sizes of fleets. Does any oil get left in the pan? No. No-Spill Systems plugs are designed to sit flush with the pan. Therefore, all of the oil is drained quickly and easily. Can I drain the oil hot? Absolutely. This is one of the main advantages of using No-Spill Systems. What if I can’t find a size? No-Spill Systems makes over 500 combinations of thread sizes and patterns. Please call us with your application, and we will find the size for you. Is there a minimum order amount? No. No-Spill Systems customers and dealers can order as few or as many plugs as are required. What are the Shipping Terms? Product is shipped FOB Origin. UPS Ground is the most common shipping method. How many of these drain plugs are in use? There are over 1,000,000 in use in North America. What are the plugs made of? The plugs are machined from solid brass bar stock. What is the warranty for the drain plugs?
This is a limited power-train warranty for a period of 3 months from the date of the original sale or 3000 miles from the mileage at the time of the original sale, (whichever occurs first), for repairs which are required as a result of defects due to material and/or workmanship to the power-train components as listed below: What Is Covered Engine All internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings, piston pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and bearings, camshaft and bearings, timing chain or belt, timing gears, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, valve guides, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shafts, hydraulic and solid lifters;. The engine block and heads are also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered components. Transmission All internal parts; torque converter; vacuum modulator and mounts. Does not include clutch assembly; pressure plate; flywheel; throw out bearing; worn synchronizers; cables or electrical items. The case is also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered items. Drive Axle All lubricated internal parts contained within the housings. Axle shafts, differential housing, transaxle housing & final drive housing.
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