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Rhode Island College Anchor Notes The Official Newsletter of Rhode Island College Intercollegiate Athletics www.ric.edu/athletics Vol. VI No. 2 Providence, Rhode Island Fall Review/Winter Preview December, 2004 Michael Morrison Joins RIC Staff Inside this edition Tabbed to head up athletic development Morrison joins RIC staff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 1 Soccer stadium project update . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 1 2004 fall season summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 2 Upcoming home winter sports dates . . . . . . . . . . Page 3 Dates to remember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 3 Vin Cullen ‘55 honored. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 3 75th Anniversary events taking place . . . . . . . . . . Page 4 Anchor Club membership . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 4 Rh ode Island College has n am ed Michael Morrison the Assistant Athletic Director for Athletic Development. He is responsible for the day-to-day management of the department’s development init iativ es in clud ing fun draisin g and marketing activities. “I am very excited about joining the Rh ode Is land College Athletic Michael Morrison Department,” Morrison says. “I am looking forward to working with RIC Athletic Dir ector Don Tencher and Anchor Club Executive Director Art Pontarelli and hope to continue the success that they’ve had over the past five years.” RIC Athletic Direct or Don Tencher says, “W are e extremely glad to have Mike Morrison joining our athletic family. Mike brings successful experience, ener gy, and a strong work ethic to the fundraising side of our house. I am confident that Mike’s efforts will result in positive results that will benefit the athletic program, our student-athletes and our alumni.”
No. BPI 10-06 Subject: Temporary reduction in power brake assist in extreme cold weather Vehicles Involved: Models: 2009 BUICK ENCLAVE 2009 CHEVROLET TRAVERSE 2009 GMC ACADIA 2009 SATURN OUTLOOK From 9J100008 From 9S100002 From 9J100016 From 9J100003 to to to to 9J190898 9S143268 9J190899 9J190888 Condition: If the brake check valves are NOT installed correctly, an increased amount of brake pedal effort will be required to obtain brake function, and the brake assist system will NOT perform as designed. Repair: Replace the first design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (1) with a second design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (2). An arrow on the second design check valve indicates the vacuum draw direction (3). 1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield (engine cover) from the engine. 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 Determine where the two brake booster vacuum hose check valves are located. Refer to callouts 1 and 2 in the illustration 2. Release the quick connect (4) from the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 3. Remove the protective wrap (5) from the brake booster vacuum hose to locate check valve # (1). 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050 (815) 363-9000 4. Remove the check valve (1) from the brake booster vacuum hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 5. Remove the check valve (2) from the brake booster hose that routes to the intake manifold vacuum port (6). Note If necessary, a small amount of denatured alcohol can be used as an assembly aid for installing the vacuum hose to the manifold vacuum port. Do not use soap. 6. Install a new check valve (1) to the brake booster hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). Ensure the arrow on the check valve (1) ...
Fifty percent less pedal force I n most of the models of the 1950s and 1960s, Mercedes-Benz provided a power brake booster manufactured by ATE. The booster does not pro- vide additional braking capacity, a common misconception, but rather reduces the pedal force required for braking. The power brake is a vacuum-assisted hydraulic component using the pressure difference between engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its operation. The power unit increases the pressure created physically in the brake master cylinder so that the same braking effect can be produced with less pedal effort. With a brake booster installed, the pedal force required for braking is reduced by 50 percent. The ATE T50 Brake Booster uses vacuum to “boost” the hydraulic brakeline pressure. The booster contains a hydraulic cylinder, a large vacuum piston that presses against the hydraulic cylinder, and a control circuit that regulates the vacuum flow based on brake-line pressures. This technology had been well proven since the early 1900s, and the T50 has been exceptionally reliable over many years of use. The Booster in action The power booster is a very simple design requiring only a vacuum source to operate. In gasoline-engine cars, the engine provides a vacuum suitable for the boosters. Because diesel engines do not produce a vacuum, dieselpowered vehicles must use a separate vacuum pump. A vacuum hose from the intake manifold on the engine pulls air from both sides of the diaphragm when the engine is running. When the driver steps on the brake pedal, the input rod assembly in the booster moves forward, blocking off the vacuum port to the backside of the diaphragm and opening an atmospheric port that allows air to enter the back chamber. Suddenly, the diaphragm has vacuum pulling against one side and air pressure pushing on the other. The result is forward pressure that assists in pushing the input rod, which in turn pushes the piston in the master cylinder. The amount of power assist that’s provided by the booster depends on the size of the diaphragm and the amount of intake manifold vacuum produced by the engine. A larger diaphragm will increase the boost.
The clutch master cylinder is a device that transforms mechanical force into hydraulic pressure. As the driver presses the clutch pedal, the pedal lever applies force to the clutch master cylinder which transmits hydraulic pressure to the clutch release (slave) cylinder that disconnects engine power to the transmission. Structure and Components [Conventional Type] Inlet Union Oil Spill Hole Aluminum Body Flare Nut Pipe Joint Boot Spring Primary Cup Resin Piston Push Rod Rel Secondary Cup Spring Metallic Clevis Damper Stud Bolt The clutch master cylinder structure consists of the piston, cups, and springs, built within a precision machined body. The primary cup, positioned on the leading side of the body, functions to create hydraulic pressure when fluid is forced inside by the piston. Located on the trailing side is the secondary cup, which guides the piston and prevents fluid from leaking. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the primary cup is blocked away by the piston from the oil spill port leading to the reservoir tank, pressure in the cylinder rises as the fluid is fed through the pipeline. When the clutch pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure and the force of the return spring pulls back the piston to relieve fluid back into the reservoir. The clutch master cylinder is what provides the necessary force to control the application of drivetrain power. 2 Clutch Master Cylinder Variations Clutch Master Cylinder Variations Conventional Port-less Type Stand Alone / Integrated Reservoir Type Types With and Without Stud Bolts Types With and Without Clevis Damper Types With and Without Clutch Booster ...
Love never leaves our side, but somehow it goes into a state of incognito. The saying fits perfectly on the modern age couples whose busy lives have slowly evaporated the romance out of their relationships.
Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 2 Upper Fairing Removal. This can be used to take off the panels to get to the fuse block, Gauge Cluster, changing bulb, anything behind ... Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 2 Upper Fairing Removal. This can be used to take off the panels to get to the fuse block, Gauge Cluster, changing bulb, anything behind the upper cowl. Step 1: Remove these bolts on both sides of the bike. 4mm Hex 2nd Step Remove these plastic pin (both side) by inserting a small flat head screw driver and popping it up. Step 3: Remove this bolt located center and below the triple Tree. Step 4: this piece should easily pop out. Notice that there is another push pin hidden? Step 5: Remove this pin by pushing the center. (Both sides) Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 2 Upper Fairing Removal. This can be used to take off the panels to get to the fuse block, Gauge Cluster, changing bulb, anything behind the upper cowl. Step 1: Remove these bolts on both sides of the bike. 4mm Hex 2nd Step Remove these plastic pin (both side) by inserting a small flat head screw driver and popping it up. Step 3: Remove this bolt located center and below the triple Tree. Step 4: this piece should easily pop out. Notice that there is another push pin hidden? Step 5: Remove this pin by pushing the center. (Both sides)
Suzuki Hayabusa 2000 - 2005 Engine Protection Cage installation instructions Items included in this kit Cage loop (1each) Side struts (2 each) Extended frame sliders (2 each) Hardware kit (1 each) (contents listed below) M10-1.25 x 70mm bolt (1 each) M10-1.25 x 80mm bolt (1 each) ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 x 2” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 lock nuts (4 each) 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolts (2 each) Flange Bushings (2 each) M10-1.5 x 15 1/2" all thread rod (1 each) M10-1.5 hex nuts (2 each) 1. Follow installation instructions for extended frame sliders. (See page 1) Note: Do not attach delron tips or tighten extended frame sliders until all components are installed. 2. Place the cage loop inside short telescoping tubes on sliders (See fig. G), push the ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts through the bolt holes in the telescoping tubes from the outside and start the ¼”-20 lock nuts. Do not tighten lock nuts at this time. 3. Install the left side strut using the all thread rod, flange bushings and hex nuts provided. Slide the following components over one end of the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked with "L", side strut marked with "L" and one M10-1.5 hex nut. (See fig A) Slide the all thread rod through the swing arm bolt on the left side of the motorcycle. (make sure the flange bushing slides into the swing arm bolt) On the right side of the motorcycle slide the following components over the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked "R", side strut marked "R" and M10-1.5 hex nut. (you may need to hold the left side to ensure it stays in place) 4. Push the bottom of the cage loop towards the rear of the motorcycle while pulling the bottom of the left side strut towards the front until the bolt hole on the side strut meets the threaded hole on the tab welded to the cage loop. Attach the side strut to the outside of the tab on the cage loop with a 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolt. (See fig J) Do not tighten the bolt at this time. Repeat for other side. 5. Once all components are attached tighten all bolts and nuts. Be sure to torque all engine mount bolts to factory specifications. Torque the hex nuts on the all thread stud to 12ft lbs. We recommend using "blue" loctite on the all thread stud to ensure the hex nuts do not vibrate loose. 6. Install delron tips with ¼”-20 x 2” bolts and ¼”-20 lock nuts.
Parts List Power Commander USB Cable CD-ROM Installation Guide Power Commander Decals Dynojet Decals Velcro® Strip Alcohol Swab Wire tap O2 eliminator The ignition MUST be turned OFF before installation! YOU CAN ALSO DOWNLOAD THE POWER COMMANDER SOFTWARE AND LATEST MAPS FROM OUR WEB SITE AT: WWW.POWERCOMMANDER.COM PLEASE READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE STARTING INSTALLATION 2191 Mendenhall Drive 20-008 www.powercommander.com North Las Vegas, NV 89081 (800) 992-4993 www.powercommander.com 2009 Suzuki Hayabusa PCV - 1 POWER COMMANDER V INPUT ACCESSORY GUIDE A C C E S S O RY I N P U T S Map - The PCV has the ability to hold 2 different base maps. You can switch on the fly between these two base maps when you hook up a switch to the MAP inputs. You can use any open/close type switch. The polarity of the wires is not important. When using the Autotune kit one position will hold a base map and the other position will let you activate the learning mode. When the switch is “CLOSED” Autotune will be activated. Shifter- These inputs are for use with the Dynojet quickshifter. Insert the wires from the Dynojet quickshifter into the SHIFTER inputs. The polarity of the wires is not important. Speed- If your application has a speed sensor then you can tap into the signal side of the sensor and run a wire into this input. This will allow you to calculate gear position in the Control Center Software. Once gear position is setup you can alter your map based on gear position and setup gear dependent kill times when using a quickshifter. USB CONNECTION CRANK ANALOG EXPANSION PORTS 1 & 2 Optional Accessories such as Color LCD unit or Auto tune kit.
Suzuki Hayabusa & GSX-R 1000 Cylinder Head Price Sheet Vance & Hines Motorsports has the experience and most up to date computer controlled machines for every facet of engine preparation and performance parts. Byron Hines engines and pro heads have set more records and won more races than anyone else in motorcycle drag racing. Vance & Hines Motorsports also offers comprehensive head packages for Road Racing, Motorcross and Supercross engines. Hayabusa Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Cam Cut (Cam Caps) (.425 Lift & above) 99-07 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers 08 Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets $ 100.00 $ 150.00 $ 365.63 $ 399.00 $ 45.00 $ 360.00 $ 698.00 $ 145.00 GSX-R 1000 Heads Pro Port $1,320.00 Street Port $ 625.00 Competition Valve Job & Drop Valve Guides $ 375.00 Competition Valve Job $ 375.00 Surface $ Surface $ 60.00 $1,755.00 60.00 $1,060.00 SF-1020 Flowbench Optional Parts & Service • • • • • • • Weld Emission Ports Bore Lifter Buckets Valve Springs Valve Seals Stainless Steel Oversize Valves Camshafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets...
RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.