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Tree and palm removal
by canopytree 0 Comments favorite 15 Viewed Download 0 Times

The process for removal can be done in many ways. Generally, removal is done by hand using rigging systems, ropes, pulleys and a lowering device, called a friction drum. In using this technique, the tree is removed in a controlled manner.

Tags: Ropes, Tree, Pulleys, Legal,
Rhode Island College Anchor Notes - Rhode Island College Athletics

Rhode Island College Anchor Notes The Official Newsletter of Rhode Island College Intercollegiate Athletics www.ric.edu/athletics Vol. IV No. 4 Providence, Rhode Island Spring/Summer Update June, 2003 The Murray Center dedication ceremony Wednesday, Apr. 16, 2003 The home to the intercollegiate athletic program was official ly named The Murray Center at a ceremony held in the Bourget Foyer on Wednesday, Apr. 16. The building was named to honor two alumnae sisters, Catherine T. Murray ’34, M.Ed ’51 and the late Mary F. Murray ’33, and their commitment to education. Catherine T. Murray was on hand to dedicate the building and took part in the unveiling of a commemorative plaque in the foyer (see photo below) along with her nephew Terry Murray and his wife Suzanne, as well as Rhode Island College President John Nazarian ’54 . Over 75 guests attended the ceremony and stayed to enjoy lunch in The Murray Center’s Kleniewski-Foley Hall of Fame Lobby located on the second floor. The Murray family was presented with a framed copy of the Rhode Island Legislative Acts, signed into law by Governor Donald Carcieri, and all guests received commemorative t-shirts and baseball caps. “The gift given by the Murray Family in naming the building is an integral part of our capital campaign fundraising goal of which 1.25 million will be committed to establishing a solid foun dation for an athletic endowment,” says Director of Intercollegiate Athletics, Intramurals and Recreation Donald E. Tencher. “The...

JANE WILLIAMS - Rhode Island College
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JANE WILLIAMS, PhD, RN Dean and Professor of Nursing School of Nursing, Rhode Island College 600 Mt. Pleasant Avenue, Providence, RI 02908 TEL: 401 456-9608: FAX: 401 456-8206 Email: jwilliams@ric.edu CURRENT EMPLOYMENT Rhode Island College, Dean and Professor of Nursing, School of Nursing, 1975-present; initial appointment as assistant professor, 1975; appointed Professor, 1995, Department Chairperson, 2000, and Dean, 2007. EDUCATION University of Rhode Island, College of Nursing, Kingston, Rhode Island, Ph.D., Nursing, 1995. New York University, School of Education, New York, New York, M.A., Major in Education and Minor in Nursing, 1968; University of Michigan, School of Nursing, Ann Arbor, Michigan, B.S.N. with Distinction, 1966. PUBLICATIONS Williams, J., Brumbaugh, M. & Vares, L., (2006), “Education to improve interdisciplinary practice of health care professionals: A pilot project”, Medicine & Health, Rhode Island, 89 (9), p. 312-313. Mosser, N., Williams, J. & Wood, C. (2006), “The use of progression testing throughout nursing programs: How two colleges promote success on NCLEX-RN”. Annual Review of Nursing Education. Vol.4, p. 305-319. Newman, M. and Williams, J. (2003) "Educating Nurses in Rhode Island: A lot of diversity in a little place", Journal of Cultural Diversity, Vol. 10, No. 3, p. 91-95. Williams, J., (2001) “The Clinical Notebook: Using Student Portfolios to Enhance Teaching and Learning, Journal of Nursing Education. Vol. 40, p. 135-137. Ferszt, G., Massotti, E., Miller, J. & Williams, J. (2000) “Art on Rounds: Research Study of an in-patient oncology unit”, Illness Crisis and Loss. Vol. 8, No. 2, pp. 189-199. Williams, J. (1999) “When Interns Meet Managed Care” [Letter to the Editor]. New York Times, p. 30A. Williams, J., Wood, C., & Cunningham-Warburton, P. (1999) “A Narrative Study of Chemotherapy-Induced Alopecia”. Oncology Nursing Forum. Vol. 26, pp. 1463-1468. Willliams, J. (1999) “Health Policy Tool Kit Helps Students to Get Involved”. ONS Newsletter, 14 (9) p 5.

Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis.pdf

Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.

Brake Booster - Subaru Outback Forums
by moncoZ 0 Comments favorite 5 Viewed Download 0 Times

(2) Four brake booster installation nuts A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts in the engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector of brake fluid level gauge. (2) Remove the brake pipe from the master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installation nut. (1) CAUTION: In order to prevent the contact of the bracket and check valve, be sure to loosen the master cylinder mounting nut while holding the bracket with hand. Otherwise it may deform the bracket. (1) Check valve (2) Bracket (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from the pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin Nut Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod Brake pedal 3) Remove the brake booster while avoiding the brake pipe. NOTE: • Make sure that the booster shell and vacuum pipe are not subject to strong impacts. • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. If the booster is dropped, replace it. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, the angle may change by r3°, and it may result in damage to power piston cylinder. • Be careful when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. CAUTION: • Do not disassemble the brake booster.

SECTION 205-00 Driveline System — General Information

GENERAL PROCEDURES Driveshaft Runout and Balancing Special Tool(s) Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture 100-002 (TOOL-4201-C) or equivalent Mastertech® Series MTS 4000 Driveline Balance and NVH Analyzer (Vetronix) 257-00018 or equivalent Driveshaft Inspection NOTE: Driveline vibration exhibits a higher frequency and lower amplitude than high-speed shake. Driveline vibration is directly related to the speed of the vehicle and is noticed at various speeds. Driveline vibration can be perceived as a tremor in the floorpan or heard as a rumble, hum or boom. NOTE: Refer to Specifications in this section for all runout specifications. 1. NOTE: Do not make any adjustments before carrying out a road test. Do not change the tire pressure or the vehicle load. Carry out a visual inspection of the vehicle. Operate the vehicle and verify the condition by reproducing it during the road test. • 2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. • 3. The concern should be directly related to vehicle road speed, not affected by acceleration or deceleration or could not be reduced by coasting in NEUTRAL. The driveshaft should be kept at an angle equal to or close to the curb-weighted position. Use a twin-post hoist or a frame hoist with jackstands. Inspect the driveshaft for damage, undercoating or incorrectly seated U-joints. Rotate the driveshaft slowly by hand and feel for binding or end play in the U-joint trunnions. Remove the driveshaft. For additional information, refer to Section 205-01. Inspect the slip yoke splines for any galling, dirt, rust or incorrect lubrication. Clean the driveshaft or install new U-joints as necessary. Install a new driveshaft if damaged. After any corrections or new components are installed, recheck for the vibration at the road test speed.

Hand Made Israeli Jewelry
by alexzace 0 Comments favorite 13 Viewed Download 0 Times

We offer an exclusive range of Hand Made Israeli Jewelry made by Israeli Jewelry Designers etc. This jewelry is combination of gold and sterling silver and semi precious stones. Purchase online now.

A Lawyer in San Antonio for All Kinds of Cases

Once you have the website information in hand, there is nothing standing between you and availing all the essential information about the lawyer San Antonio.

Speedi Plumb® PLUS Flexible Water Connectors - BrassCraft

BrassCraft® Speedi Plumb® PLUS Connector The Most Corrosion Resistant Connector BrassCraft Speedi Plumb PLUS Performance, PLUS Advanced Construction and Appeal. The BrassCraft Speedi Plumb PLUS connector is the world’s most advanced flexible water connector. Designed for longer life under the harshest conditions, the BrassCraft Speedi Plumb PLUS connector features tough polymer-coated fibers tightly braided around a reinforced PVC inner hose. The result is a corrosion resistant, highly flexible, extremely reliable water connector for use with faucets, toilets, dishwashers, washing machines, water heaters, icemakers and humidifiers. Patented Engineered Polymer Braid. Patented construction features a high tenacity, multi-filament core yarn, protected by a special polymer coating. The result is optimum corrosion resistance, and durability. Allows for Speedier Connections. The braided polymer-coated fibers bend freely, without kinking or crimping. Installation is easier, especially in cramped quarters. Stop End Provides More Secure Connections. Deep threads in the compression nut assure secure engagement, while the rubber seal eliminates metal-tometal connections which have been known to damage water stops. Reinforced PVC Inner Hose Ensures Durability. Long Wing Nuts for Quick & Sure Connections. Hand-tightened wing nuts offer quicker connections to faucets and toilets, while the long nut ensures dependable thread engagement. 8-Sided Pneumatic Crimp for Greater Dependability. Precise 8-sided crimp ensures reliable nut-to-hose connections. ...

RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install - Suzuki Hayabusa - Gen 1

RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.

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