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GENERAL PROCEDURES Driveshaft Runout and Balancing Special Tool(s) Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture 100-002 (TOOL-4201-C) or equivalent Mastertech® Series MTS 4000 Driveline Balance and NVH Analyzer (Vetronix) 257-00018 or equivalent Driveshaft Inspection NOTE: Driveline vibration exhibits a higher frequency and lower amplitude than high-speed shake. Driveline vibration is directly related to the speed of the vehicle and is noticed at various speeds. Driveline vibration can be perceived as a tremor in the floorpan or heard as a rumble, hum or boom. NOTE: Refer to Specifications in this section for all runout specifications. 1. NOTE: Do not make any adjustments before carrying out a road test. Do not change the tire pressure or the vehicle load. Carry out a visual inspection of the vehicle. Operate the vehicle and verify the condition by reproducing it during the road test. • 2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. • 3. The concern should be directly related to vehicle road speed, not affected by acceleration or deceleration or could not be reduced by coasting in NEUTRAL. The driveshaft should be kept at an angle equal to or close to the curb-weighted position. Use a twin-post hoist or a frame hoist with jackstands. Inspect the driveshaft for damage, undercoating or incorrectly seated U-joints. Rotate the driveshaft slowly by hand and feel for binding or end play in the U-joint trunnions. Remove the driveshaft. For additional information, refer to Section 205-01. Inspect the slip yoke splines for any galling, dirt, rust or incorrect lubrication. Clean the driveshaft or install new U-joints as necessary. Install a new driveshaft if damaged. After any corrections or new components are installed, recheck for the vibration at the road test speed.
– Drivelines and Universal Joints Universal Joint Maintenance • Most factory-installed universal joints are sealed and don’t require periodic lubrication • After-market replacement joints are equipped with a grease fitting and must be greased periodically Drive Shaft Problem Diagnosis • Road testing – Vehicle should be driven while accelerating and decelerating as well as at various steady speeds – Vibrations caused by worn U-joints usually occur while accelerating Types and Causes of Vibrations • High speed vibrations – Usually caused by driveshaft imbalance • Vibrations during acceleration – Usually caused by worn double Cardan joint ball and socket • Low speed vibrations – Usually caused by improper operating angles Noise Diagnosis • Clunking noise while accelerating from a dead stop – Usually caused by worn or damaged U-joint – Can be caused by problems including excessive clearance between slip joint and extension housing • Squeaking noise – Often caused by worn or poorly lubricated U-joint Reasons for Universal Joint Failure • Lack of lubrication • Pushing another car • Towing a trailer • Changing gears abruptly • Carrying heavy loads Steps in Lubricating U-Joints 1. Wipe off the nozzle of the fitting 2. Attach the hose of the grease gun to the fitting 3. Pump grease slowly into the fitting 4. Stop pumping when grease appears at the bearing cups Inspecting the Drive Shaft • Check for fluid leaks • Check the U-joints for signs of rust or leakage • Check for movement in the joint while trying to turn the yoke and the shaft in opposite directions • Check the drive shaft for dents, missing weights, and undercoating or dirt...
Vibration Diagnostics S tart 1 Gather Info When did vibration start? Where is vibration felt? What road conditions? Under load or high torque conditions? During acceleration/deceleration? Speed dependent? RPM dependent? Noise? Suspension modified recently? Lube clean and at proper level? 2 Important: Use factory service manuals and procedures and refer to all applicable safety precautions when servicing vehicles. This document is intended to assist with drivetrain vibration diagnosis. It does not guarantee an immediate solution nor does it guarantee warranty responsibility or reimbursement. Refer to Roadranger.com for Product Warranty Statements, Warranty Manual, and Warranty Guidelines. 6 Vibrations While Stationary Previous work on clutch or engine Y es In the road test in Step 2, the vehicle was run up to the suspected RPM and the transmission shift lever was placed in neutral. No Y es No If clutch work recently done, problem could be related to the clutch. Verify proper clutch was installed. If engine work recently done, problem could be related to the engine. Contact your engine distributor. 4 No Problem is related to the clutch. Road Test Have vehicle driver recreate complaint condition, if possible Leave trailer attached Run up to suspected RPM and put transmission in neutral Simulate Conditions Speed Related? Y es Does ride height meet OEM specs Y es No No Perform visual inspection and use Eaton Driveline Angle Analyzer (DAA). U-joint bearing cups and trunnions Bearing straps Flange yoke / companion flange Yoke-mounted damper Parking brake Center bearing Fasteners Driveshaft for damage / missing weights Driveshaft slip spline (wear / bottoming / inadequate engagement) Cab mounts / air ride system Correct per OEM procedures. Speed RPM Gear Position Coast Under power Loaded / Unloaded Problem Solved No Remove all drive axle shafts and lock in power divider. Run truck in same condition as when complaint occurred. Y es Done! Problem Solved Isolate Suspect Shaft No Y es Problem is related to the wheel end. Take known good wheel assembly and test replacement from wheel to wheel to isolate problem.
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Tube Replacement Instructions: CL/CLM & HECL/HECLM Models Bryan Steam, the originator and leader in the production of ﬂexible tube water and steam boilers for over 90 years, is pleased to provide you with the technical and service information you need to keep your Bryan Boiler running. These instructions will give you the information you need to remove and replace tubes on a CL/CLM or HECL/HECLM Model Bryan Boiler. Here are a few points to consider when inspecting your boiler. 1. Inspect your boiler annually to ﬁnd and replace bad tubes. 2. These are the two warning signs that a tube is bad: • A knocking sound in the tube bank of the boiler indicates a possibly clogged tube. • A white ash visible along the bottom of a tube or tubes indicates that the tube is getting too hot from reduced water ﬂow. Required Tools for Tube Replacement: 1" tube puller 1" tube driver 50/50 mixture pipe dope and cutting oil 1" paint brush 3 lb. hammer 9/16" socket wrench half round ﬁle full round ﬁle piece of emery cloth a tool to bend the tube studs (or small socket/ratchet set) ...
Suzuki Hayabusa 2000 - 2005 Engine Protection Cage installation instructions Items included in this kit Cage loop (1each) Side struts (2 each) Extended frame sliders (2 each) Hardware kit (1 each) (contents listed below) M10-1.25 x 70mm bolt (1 each) M10-1.25 x 80mm bolt (1 each) ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 x 2” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 lock nuts (4 each) 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolts (2 each) Flange Bushings (2 each) M10-1.5 x 15 1/2" all thread rod (1 each) M10-1.5 hex nuts (2 each) 1. Follow installation instructions for extended frame sliders. (See page 1) Note: Do not attach delron tips or tighten extended frame sliders until all components are installed. 2. Place the cage loop inside short telescoping tubes on sliders (See fig. G), push the ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts through the bolt holes in the telescoping tubes from the outside and start the ¼”-20 lock nuts. Do not tighten lock nuts at this time. 3. Install the left side strut using the all thread rod, flange bushings and hex nuts provided. Slide the following components over one end of the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked with "L", side strut marked with "L" and one M10-1.5 hex nut. (See fig A) Slide the all thread rod through the swing arm bolt on the left side of the motorcycle. (make sure the flange bushing slides into the swing arm bolt) On the right side of the motorcycle slide the following components over the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked "R", side strut marked "R" and M10-1.5 hex nut. (you may need to hold the left side to ensure it stays in place) 4. Push the bottom of the cage loop towards the rear of the motorcycle while pulling the bottom of the left side strut towards the front until the bolt hole on the side strut meets the threaded hole on the tab welded to the cage loop. Attach the side strut to the outside of the tab on the cage loop with a 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolt. (See fig J) Do not tighten the bolt at this time. Repeat for other side. 5. Once all components are attached tighten all bolts and nuts. Be sure to torque all engine mount bolts to factory specifications. Torque the hex nuts on the all thread stud to 12ft lbs. We recommend using "blue" loctite on the all thread stud to ensure the hex nuts do not vibrate loose. 6. Install delron tips with ¼”-20 x 2” bolts and ¼”-20 lock nuts.
RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.
Want to replace your undercarriage parts? Ram Undercarriage and offers high quality replacement undercarriage parts; describes some things that should consider in need of undercarriage parts.