Found 704 related files. Current in page 16

gambar animasi bergerak screw rotary compressor

Fitting instructions for Geartronics GPI-4 Suzuki Hayabusa Gear ...

A reasonably competent amateur mechanic, using only basic hand tools, should be capable of fitting the Geartronics indicator in less than 1 hour. Step 1. Remove the screw at each side of the seat and remove the riders seat. Remove the 2 screws in front of the fuel tank. Lift the front of the tank and support at approximately 45° to gain access behind the engine. Step 2. Remove all screws securing the left hand lower fairing and carefully remove the panel to expose the bike frame. Note that there are 2 different sizes of screws! Remove the single screw & clip securing the insert panel located to the left of the instrument cluster. The centre of the clip should be pushed in, allowing the outer part to be pulled out. Step 3. Locate the gear position sensor connectors with reference to the photo below. Close up of gear position sensor connector The connectors are 3 pin white triangular, and have pink blue & black wires. Separate the 2 connectors by inserting a small screwdriver into the releasing latch and pulling the housings apart. DO NOT pull on the wires to separate the connectors as damage may result. Step 4. Plug the connectors on the Geartronics loom into the two connectors you separated in step 3. Run the Geartronics loom alongside the existing loom on the left hand side frame. Secure with the cable ties supplied in the kit. Step 5. The Geartronics control box should be fitted behind the fuse box located under, and in front of, the left handlebar. The control box should be mounted with the connector at the bottom so as to reduce the possibility of water ingress. Step 6. Route the display cable up and along the top of the instrument cluster and secure the display housing to the top of the cluster using double-sided adhesive tape provided. Take care not to make sharp bends in the display cable, as it is quite fragile. Step 7. Making the power connections: The black earth wire should be secured under the lower left hand instrument cluster screw as shown in the photo below. The red wire for the 12v supply can be connected to any convenient ignition switched feed. On the year 2000 model illustrated, it was found that the most convenient supply was that going to the front light cluster. The front light wiring harness connects to the main loom using a black rectangular connector located to the left of the fuse box. The 12v supply was found on the thick orange/red wire. Other year models may use a different colour code and if in doubt, reference should be made to the appropriate service manual. Splice the red wire into the lighting power feed using the 3M ‘Scotchlok’ connector provided. Step 8. Testing the display: check that the bike is in neutral and turn on the ignition. The display should read ‘N’. The function of the standard neutral lamp should be unaffected. If possible select 1st and 2nd gears and confirm that the display reads correctly. It will be unlikely that the other gears can be selected unless the engine is running, but if the display is reading correctly in Neutral and 1st then it is fair to assume that all is functioning correctly. Step 9. Ensure that no wires have been trapped or incorrectly routed, then replace the insert panel, the fairing and the seat. Remember that the fairing is secured using two different types of screw! Step 10. Finally, road test the bike to ensure that the display is reading correctly in all gears. The display should be easily visible, both from under the screen with you head down, or through the screen with you head up.

The Economical CNC Grinding Machine - Anca

The Economical CNC Grinding Machine The economical CNC grinding machine The affordable tool grinding package The ANCA FastGrind is an entry level CNC tool grinder and a popular machine in the ANCA range. This machine offers all of the benefits that ANCA customers have enjoyed for many years at an extremely affordable price. The FastGrind is a versatile and flexible machine and is suited to a wide variety of industries and applications. It is popular with regrinders and provides opportunities for companies to reduce costs by bringing regrinding in-house. It is also ideally suited to companies looking for reduced risk in making the transition into CNC grinding technology. The FastGrind has all of the essential elements the industry demands for cost-effective tool grinding, including:Quick and easy set-up Superior tool accuracy High quality surface finish Flexibility to grind a large variety of tool types Machine reliability and accuracy Direct-drive technology The double-ended wheel spindle is based on a directdrive, bi-directional motor design capable of 10,000 rpm. With a HSK40F taper, constant power of 3.7 kW (5.0 HP) and peak power of 8.0 kW (10.0 HP), it offers enough power for any resharpening task. There are no belts, pulleys or gears, resulting in superior surface finish on the ground tool and higher machine reliability. All linear and rotary machine axes, including workhead, use direct-drive technology giving greater positional accuracy. the affordable choice Flexibility and speed The FastGrind is both small and compact, yet has a large working envelope making it suitable for a wide range of tool types, geometries and shapes. The FastGrind also has both the flexibility and speed to tackle a wide range of different high-precision cutting and drilling tools in one set-up. For resharpening, the standard probe system digitises the features and geometry of the tool, ensuring accurate and precise grinding.

Precision Surface Grinding Machine MPS VTG II Operating Manual

This directive is intended for personnel response to operate the grinding machine. The complete technical documentation shall all the times be kept near the grinding machine. Thie operating directive points out essential details for the application of the grinding machine. With hints contained in this directive, failures at the grinding machine may be avoided thus permitting troublefree operation. It is therefore of utmost importance that personnel delegated to operate the machine is familiar with this directive, especially the chapter for safety. It is recommended to carefully study the directive prior to taking machine to operation, as G&N will not come up for damages or operating failures resulting from nonobservance of this directive. Note: Technical modifications serving for improvement of the grinding machine are subject to exception as compared to description and notes of this directive. Purpose of Machine: The precision grinding machine MPS VTG II is exclusively designed for resharpening punching tools made of steel. Any other application is considered contrary to intended purpose. The manufacturer will not accept claims for damages resulting from such use; the user will be responsible for such application. Mate Part Number: LIT00426 Rev A Precision Surface Grinding Machine MPS VTG II SPECIFICATION Order No.: _______________ Mfg. Year: 2002 _______________ 400V / 50Hz El. Connection V/Hz: _______________ Mate Part Number: LIT00426 Rev A TECHNICAL DATA MPS VTG II Connected Load Grinding Motor: Compressed air supply 4 kVA 3,3 kW 440V50Hz 2850 min-1 6 bar Grinding Wheels CBN Diamant ø 200X34X32 mm ø 200X34X32 mm Precision 0,005 mm Rotary Table ø 320 mm Max. grinding height: ca. 300 mm Space (depending on order) ca. 760 x 650 mm Noise level < 67dB(A) Weight ca. 300 kgs Mate Part Number: LIT00426 Rev A OPERATING MANUAL MPS VTG II

Master Cylinder Removal & Brake Booster Rebuild

Master Cylinder Removal & Brake Booster Rebuild Car: 1991 BMW 750iL, mfg 4/91 Symptoms:  Leaking brake fluid between the Master Cylinder and Hydraulic Brake Booster  Brake Booster leaking Pentosin (drip point at grub screw under the booster) I won’t be going into the theory of operation in this instruction, but will illustrate the steps I followed to fix the leaks and point out the lessons learned along the way. Note: I had previously removed the coolant expansion tank, intake manifold, valve covers & auxiliary water pump while in the process of doing a valve cover gasket/manifold gasket reseal job so I have a little more room than typical for this job. My main goal was to repair the leaking H31 Brake Booster “In Situ”, as I did not want the headache and additional work of removing the assembly from the engine bay. It just so happened I noticed the master cylinder was leaking so I also replaced it as part of the process. Page 2 of 16 Master Cylinder Removal Begin by disconnecting the electrical connector from the brake fluid float switch and then remove the lid of the brake fluid reservoir. Using a turkey baster or syringe, suck out all the brake fluid that can be removed. You won’t get it all out so be prepared for spills when you pull off the plastic reservoir. The Reservoir is mounted into the master cylinder by two grommets. Note: If you are not planning to replace your master cylinder, you will need to replace these two grommets. Firmly grasp the reservoir and pull it while rocking to get it out. Mine was in there pretty tight. Make sure you clean up any spilled fluid, it’s not kind to paint. Page 3 of 16 Master Cylinder Removal If you will be reusing your master cylinder, make sure dirt & debris are kept out of the system. Spray it down with brake cleaner and wipe it down as necessary, You don’t want to introduce contaminants into it. Page 4 of 16 Master Cylinder Removal Remove the brake line nuts circled below. These will require an 11mm flare nut wrench. You might be able to use a standard open end wrench but it’s not advised - these are tight! You don’t want to risk rounding them. ...

Price list - HANSA-FLEX
by Negroos 0 Comments favorite 24 Viewed Download 0 Times

Hydraulic Fittings Hydraulic Line Tube Stainless Steel Tube Minimess Control Systems H.P. Ball Valves Lockable H.P. Ball Valves Flow Control Valves Check Valves Rotary Couplings Pipe Clamps Bowman Oil Coolers SAE Flanges Plastic Spiral Guard Hydraulic Hose Spir Star Ultra High Pressure Hose Thermoplastic Hose Teflon Smooth And Convoluted Hose Flexible Metallic Hose Hydraulic Hose Fittings Stainless Steel Hose Fittings Quick Couplers Adaptors Accessories Pumps Valves Motors Power Packs Cylinders HYDRAULIC PRODUCT PRICE LIST No24- Effective 1st August 2009 NEW NEW NEW NEW SOUTHERN AFRICA Catalog No. 24 Effective 1st August 2009 Hydraulics For Industry ! Mobile ! Industrial ! Automotive ! Military ! Marine ! Aviation THE COMPLETE PACKAGE JOHANNESBURG 39 Steel Road Spartan PO Box 301, Kempton Park 1620 Tel: 011 394 2966, Fax: 011 975 7213 E-mail: Freefax: 0800 101012 DURBAN 9 Circuit Road, Westmead P.O. Box 15809, Westmead 3608 Tel: 031 700 3211 Fax: 031 700 3270 E-mail: BOTSWANA Plot 9268 Mmadinare Road, Dumela Industrial, Francistown Tel: +267 2416 295 Fax: +267 2416 294 E-mail: PORT ELIZABETH 3-5 Rundle Street, Sidwell PO Box 1505, Port Elizabeth 6000 Tel: 041 453 1911 Fax: 041 453 1932 E-mail: MIDDELBURG 13 Kilo Street, Unit 12, Middelburg Tel: 013 246 1881 Fax: 013 246 1076 E-mail: CAPE TOWN Cnr President Kruger & Auckland Street, P.O. Box 202, Paarden Eiland 7420 Tel: 021 511 9670 Fax: 021 510 3478 E-mail: Member of South African Fluid Power Association PLEASE NOTE: Any information contained in these pages, technical or otherwise, is supplied by the Company without obligation. Specifications, prices and discounts may be changed at any time at the Company’s discretion and without prior notice. Kindly remember that when you deal with our Company, you are to expect the best service and most courteous reception from our staff. If you have any complaints please phone our managing director, Allan Bartram, immediately. 1 SINCE 1982 AND SINCE 1963 Now a combined strategy in Southern Africa Since 1963 HANSA-FLEX have developed a worldwide network and today operate in 35 different countries globally through over 300 branches, and more than 250 mobile service vehicles. Market leaders in Germany and the preferred supplier to the after market in Europe and around the world Would you like to become a part of our global expansion strategy... Maintain your independence and strengthen your market position Benefit from our global buying power

Engine Stand - OTC Tools
by kororawa 0 Comments favorite 41 Viewed Download 0 Times

WARNING: To prevent personal injury, Study, understand, and follow the safety precautions and operating instructions included with this equipment. If the operator cannot read these instructions, the safety precautions and operating instructions must be read and discussed in the operator's native language. Wear eye protection that meets ANSI Z87.1 and OSHA standards. To maintain shear strength specifications, use grade 5 cap screws to mount adapters or engines. Tapped holes in adapters and engine blocks must be clean and not damaged to ensure full thread engagement. A thread length engagement equal to 11/2 screw diameters minimum is required to maintain strength requirements. Do not exceed the 1,000 lb. maximum capacity of this engine stand. (Maximum capacity is determined with the center of the engine located not more than 18" from the engine stand mounting hub surface.) Stay out from underneath a load being lifted or suspended. The engine must be securely mounted on the repair stand with the hitch pin and turning bar in place and all mounting hardware torqued to specified values. Assembly (Numbers in parentheses refer to the items on the parts list.) 1. Place the upright post (17) on the floor. 2. Position the axle tube (16) against the angle iron bracket on the base of the upright post, aligning the bolt holes. Insert the hex hd. cap screw (2) through the holes far enough to connect the two pieces. 3. Insert the front leg (14) into the hollow base of the upright post. Tighten the cap screw (assembled in step 2) until it travels completely through the tube, post, and leg, and all three parts are securely fastened together. 4. Attach the swivel casters (18) and nuts (1) to the front leg. Tighten the nuts. 5. Assemble the following parts on each end of the axle in the order listed: washer (6), wheel (19), washer (6), locknut (9). 6. Slide the tubular end of the mounting plate (15) into the cylindrical top of the upright post. Install the hitch pin (10) and turning bar (13) through the post and mounting plate. Secure with the cotterless hitch pin (20). 7. Use cap screws (8) and washer (3) to loosely attach the four mounting brackets (11) to the mounting plate.

Driveline Installation manual
by Maradoni 0 Comments favorite 25 Viewed Download 0 Times

Safety Precautions General Safety Information WARNING: GUARDING AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFTS To prevent injury to yourself and /or damage to the equipment: • Read carefully all owners manuals, service manuals, and/or other instructions. • Always follow proper procedures and use proper tools and safety equipment. • Be sure to receive proper training. • Never work alone while under a vehicle or while repairing or maintaining equipment. • Always use proper components in applications for which they are approved. • Be sure to assemble components properly. • Never use worn-out or damaged components. • Always block any raised or moving device that may injure a person working on or under a vehicle. • Never operate the controls of the power take-off or other driven equipment from any position that could result in getting caught in the moving machinery. We strongly recommend that a power take-off and a directly mounted pump be used to eliminate the auxiliary driveshaft whenever possible. If an auxiliary driveshaft is used and remains exposed after installation, it is the responsibility of the vehicle designer and PTO installer to install a guard. WARNING: USING SET SCREWS Auxiliary driveshafts may be installed with either recessed or protruding set screws. If you choose a square head set screw, you should be aware that it will protrude above the hub of the yoke and may be a point where clothes, skin, hair, hands, etc. could be snagged. A socket head set screw, which may not protrude above the hub of the yoke, does not permit the same amount of torquing as does a square head set screw. Also a square head set screw, if used with a lock wire, will prevent loosening of the screw caused by vibration. Regardless of the choice made with respect to a set screw, an exposed rotating auxiliary driveshaft must be guarded. WARNING: THIS SYMBOL WARNS OF POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. WARNING: ROTATING DRIVESHAFTS • Rotating auxiliary driveshafts are dangerous. You can snag clothes, skin, hair, hands, etc. This can cause serious injury or death. • Do not go under the vehicle when the engine is running. • Do not work on or near an exposed shaft when engine is running. • Shut off engine before working on power take-off or driven equipment. • Exposed rotating driveshafts must be guarded.

Requirements for Importation of Dogs and Cats into New Jersey ...

Dogs imported into New Jersey are required to be accompanied by a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (CVI or health certificate) issued by a licensed veterinarian in the country or state of origin within 30 days of travel, pursuant to New Jersey Administrative Code (N.JA.C.) 8:23-1.1 (full text below). Although rabies vaccination is not required for importation into the State, New Jersey law requires all dogs 7 months of age or older to be licensed by the municipality where they are housed within 10 days of arrival. Current rabies vaccination is a prerequisite for licensure. Dogs imported from countries or regions where screw worm is known to exist ( day_sworm.shtml#ctbl) have additional requirements. The dog must be accompanied by a certificate signed by a full-time salaried veterinary official of the region of origin stating that the dog has been inspected for screwworm within 5 days prior to shipment to the United States. The certificate must state that the dog is either free from screwworm or was found to be infested with screwworm and was held in quarantine and treated until free from screwworm prior to leaving the region. There are no specific requirements for importing cats into the State, but many New Jersey municipalities have ordinances requiring cat licensure and rabies vaccination. Since cats are the domestic animal most frequently infected with rabies in the State, rabies vaccination is strongly recommended for all cats, including cats kept exclusively indoors. An indoor cat may be exposed to rabies if a bat enters the home or if the cat escapes the house and is bitten. Most airlines will require a CVI to accompany a dog or cat on a flight. Proof of current rabies vaccination is required for entry of dogs into the United States (U.S.) from other countries, unless the country is considered free of rabies by the World Health Organization. Dogs that are too young for vaccination will allowed entry and be required to be vaccinated when they reach 3 months of age and then be confined for 30...

Xbox 360 disassembly instructions - [::][:: ::]

Please note that these instructions describe how to disassemble your Xbox. For most upgrades, modifications, and repairs you will not need to completely disassemble your Xbox, therefore, parts 6 and 7 are optional. It is also recommended that you read the instructions completely before starting, so that you can understand better the purpose of each step. Part 3: Removing the grey end grills Tools needed for Xbox 360 disassembly: 7) The grey grills are held on by 6 grey tabs. These must be removed before you can separate the case halves. A view from the inside of the case is shown in the picture. You must push the clips shown from the outside so that they will slide over the pegs that hold them in place. T6: To remove hard drive screws T8: To remove internal Xbox 360 screws T10: To remove Xbox 360 internal chassis from case Metal Bar: To remove grey grills on ends of case Micro Flat Screwdriver: To undo the clips which will separate the case halves Basic Disassembly: Part 1: Preparation Part 2: Removing the faceplate Part 3: Removing the grey end grills Part 4: Separating the case halves Part 5: Removing the top half of the case Advanced Disassembly: Part 6: Removing the power switch Part 7: Disassembling the hard drive 8) Start with the grill that would be on the bottom of the case (when the case is horizontal), the one that has the rubber feet on it. 9) Using the metal rod supplied, poke through the vent holes as shown in the picture and push the grey tabs inward while pulling upward on the grill. It may be useful to use one of the other L keys to "hook" the grey grill and pull up. Part 1: Preparing your Xbox 360 1) Remove any game discs from your Xbox 360. 2) Unplug the console from the wall. 3) Remove the hard drive and put it in a safe place. See Part 7 for disassembly instructions for the hard drive. 4) Place your Xbox 360 in the horizontal position. 5) Make sure you have a good work area, with a place to put the screws so that you do not lose them, and a place to put the various case parts where they will not get scratched. You may want to put a soft cloth underneath the case. Part 2: Removing the faceplate 6) With your right hand, put your thumb in the USB door, and push to the right (outside edge) of the case. Using your left hand, squeeze the top and bottom of the faceplate. The faceplate will pop off. See the arrows in the picture for exact locations. 10) Remove all 6 grey tabs. Pull the grill out and place it to the side. 11) Next remove the tabs from the top grill. With this grill, you may need to remove the foot on the top rear of the case (when Xbox is standing upright), there will be a hole underneath that you can stick the rod through. If you do not want to remove the foot (because of fear of losing it, because it will not stick as well once removed and reapplied), you can leave the grill attached by that one tab and move on to Part 4. You can remove the final tab with your fingers after you separate the case halves, but you will have to be careful not to bend it or break it as it will be in the way. Page 1 of 2 Part 4: Separating the halves of the case Part 5: Removing the top half of the case 12) Turn the Xbox case around so you are looking at the rear panel (where the serial number is). 18) There are 6 screws holding the Xbox 360 to the top half of the case. There is one screw in approximately each corner and two in the middle (see diagram). There are two more in the center of the case. Using the T10 key, remove all 6 of these screws. Place the case top to the side. 13) You will see 7 small rectangular holes along the seam. There will have 5 on the right, over the A/V and I/O connectors, and two over the power plug connector. ...

Screw Plug Heaters: Logical Choice for the Food Industry | Screw plug heaters are a safe, efficient means of heating up liquids and oils and are, thus, an excellent choice for many food service applications. WATTCO is a trusted supplier of quality screw plug heaters.