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Strictly ACE 750 Disclaimer*** Do not attempt any - SA750.com ...

***Strictly ACE 750 Disclaimer*** Do not attempt any of the modifications featured on these pages. These modifications are shown for illustration purposes only. Modifications were performed by a professional in a closed shop. No llamas were harmed in the performance of these modifications. You accept all responsibility for any explosions or fatally injured llamas that may occur if you choose to attempt these modifications yourself. You've purchased your new bike. Maybe the first you've ever owned (like me). You decided on the Honda Shadow ACE 750. You love the cruiser style, the look, the lines. And the Shadow ACE 750 has plenty. You start your new bike for the first time, waiting to hear "that sound". You press the starter button, the engine roars to life, and the exhaust note sounds like..... Well, you know the rest. "That doesn't sound like a motorcycle, it sounds like a moped!" Many of us who either cannot yet afford an aftermarket exhaust, or can't decide yet which one to buy, have taken matters into our own hands. We've heard about modifying the stock exhaust, punching or drilling the baffles. Honda must meet very stringent federal standards for noise and emissions. Hence the stock exhaust on our machine is severely restricted by oodles of baffling. The stock exhaust on the ACE 750 is a complex maze of baffles and tubes. The exhaust appears to be a 2 into 1, both header pipes leading into a single exhaust chamber. It's a great look, but looks can be deceiving. Inside that large muffler canister each exhaust stays separate as it winds it's way through the baffle chambers .Aside from the baffling, a large part of the restriction lies in those tiny little 1" tubes that the exhaust from those large header pipes is forced to flow through. This picture will give you an idea of the internal arrangement. Click to Enlarge Without gutting the entire muffler, you can open up the exhaust and let your baby breathe. Since the 750 comes set from the factory to run lean (for emissions control), it may become necessary to make an adjustment to the air/fuel mixture depending on how far you decide to modify your exhaust. The muffler canister is approx. 22 inches long and 4 inches in diameter. I poked a coat hanger into the each of the two 1 inch exhaust tubes protruding from the back plate. This told me how far in the baffle was in each case. The baffle for the upper tube (rear cylinder) is 9 inches from the end of the exhaust tube. The baffle for the lower (front cylinder) is 19 inches from the end of the lower exhaust tube. Here is what I did, step by step. Click on a thumbnail to enlarge. Exhaust 1. Cut rebar. That's simple. I cut a 1/2" size piece about 3 feet long and cut one end on a sharp angle to make a point. Some people use a hole saw and drill it out, but then you have to buy the hole saw and an extension. My way is free. We had rebar laying around at work and a chop saw to cut it with. 2. At the back of the exhaust, there is a back plate with the two exhaust tubes coming out of it, one on top and one on the bottom. IOW, one tube about 1" in diameter at 12 o'clock and one tube about 1" in diameter at 6 o'clock. 3. Take precut piece of rebar and insert it into the top tailpipe as far as it will go. Begin hitting the end of rebar with a hammer. Eventually it will pierce the baffle plate. Pull the rebar out and do the same in the bottom tailpipe...

A4 Download - Audi of America
by aud1 0 Comments favorite 58 Viewed Download 0 Times

In this instance, first impressions are accurate. If the bold, assertive stance of the Audi A4 looks familiar, it should. Like every model in the family, the A4 shares the distinctive Audi DNA not just in performance, but also design. From the sweeping hood and the provocative available long-life LED daytime running lights bracketing the singleframe® grille, to the luminous available LED taillights integrated into the deck-lid on the sedan, the Audi A4 embodies a commitment to progressive design, luxury and performance. Audi A4 2.0T Prestige A firm belief that the driver should get preferential treatment. The impeccably crafted, driver-oriented cockpit represents a dedication to performance and luxury. The experience begins with the fine craftsmanship of the standard leather seats and the radiance of the decorative Aluminum Hologram inlays. Angled slightly toward the driver, the A4 cockpit places a host of intuitive technology at the driver’s fingertips. From the multifunction steering wheel and driver information system, to the latest generation of MMI® important details and entertainment options are always within reach. ,It does a lot of things quickly, including reminding you of why you like to drive. However you judge engine performance, the Audi A4, with the award-winning 2.0 liter TFSI® delivers. Thanks to quattro® all-wheel drive, 258 lb-ft. of torque and 211 hp, ,the A4 yields exceptional power. Not to mention, a best-in-class 0-60 MPH time of 6.4 seconds. In fact, the 2.0 liter turbocharged engine delivers power that outperforms most of the competition’s six-cylinder engines. Plus, with a standout 30 MPG, the A4 adds best-in-class in fuel economy* to its impressive list of feats. The design is pure progress. Beautifully proportioned, the A4 is designed to emanate not just distinction, but also poise. Starting with the elegant roofline and sculpted contours, the A4 marks an unwavering testament to progressive style. Its pronounced design is also a result of the wheel placement. By positioning the wheels closer to the corners of the car, the A4 yields a wider, sportier stance, adding to its striking symmetry. Add the available 18" or 19" wheels and the ultimate package of style and sophistication is complete...

WAGNER-LOCKHEED BRAKES 2035 - Restore Cars Classifieds

WAGNER-LOCKHEED BRAKES WAGNER-LOCKHEED SELF-CENTERING Studebaker, All Models (1954-55) On early production cars, some long and some short primary brake shoe linings were used on either front or rear wheel brakes. When it is necessary to replace pFimary shoe linings on a front or rear wheel, the other front or rear wheel should be inspected and the lining on the primary shoe also replaced, if necessary, to obtain same length primary lining on both front and rear wheels.Above condition is partially result of assembling in reverse or incorrect order the springs that return the shoe assemblies. Assemble rear shoe return spring to the shoe and its spring retainer first, then assemble front shoe return spring. Wagner Lockheed Hydraulic self-centering and self-energizing type (with Bendix type brake shoe assemblies). Brakes are not self adjusting, and new adjustment procedure is required. New self-centering device used. Self-centering Device—The upper (anchor pin end of each brake shoe rests against a wedge-shaped anchor block which is mounted on fixed brake anchor pin (shoes do not' contact anchor pin directly) so that the shoes are free to move radially. The wide edge of the anchor block is toward the top. When the brakes are applied, the lining surface pressure tends to force the shoe to adjust its position on the block and center itself in the drum. This centering action takes place on light, or heavy brake application and is continuous with drum expansion. The anchor plate aids in keeping the shoes properly aligned at the self-centering block. Adjusting Device—Consists of a "star wheel" adjusting screw and stud assembly mounted between the lower ends of the two brake shoes (similar to Bendix. Duo-servo brake shoe assemblies). Adjusting screw spring serves a dual purpose, holding the shoes against notches of adjusting screw, and binding against ratchet on screw to serve as a screw lock. ADJUSTMENTS: Place car on stands so that all four wheels are free. Check master cylinder and see that fluid level is W below top of cylinder. Place parking brake handle in fully released position. Adjust as follows: Brake Pedal Free Travel Adjustment: 1/4-3/8" pedal free travel measured at brake pedal pad. To adjust, loosen locknut on brake pedal-to-master cylinder rod and turn master cylinder push rod until 1/4-3/8" pedal free travel exists before the pressure stroke starts. Brake Sh Adjustment: Remove adjusting hole cover from backing plate, insert screwdriver or special adjusting tool through adjusting hole and turn adjusting screw to expand shoes until drum is just locked (pivot tool on edge of slot, -move handle upward to expand shoes)...

Scout Dana 44 rear disc brakes P/N Ea Qty Extended Wagner rotor ...

Scout Dana 44 rear disc brakes P/N 61809 BH98915 18-4138 18-4139 40121 Wagner rotor flex line caliper caliper Caliper Bracket .600 drill bit brake line wheel studs Bendix Master Cylinder shipping 3/16" 610328 11372 total Ea Qty $34.79 $6.39 $91.79 $91.79 $12.82 $20.00 $3.00 $1.73 $48.79 $30.00 ...

2011 HyUNDAI ACCENT - O'Brien Hyundai Dealer Ft Myers

2011 Hyundai ACCENT gls in ebony black Can a subcompact car dream of bigger things ? Some cars just dream bigger than others. Take Hyundai Accent. While it’s typically cross-shopped with sub-compacts like Honda Fit and Toyota Yaris, here’s the real story: Accent actually has more interior room than those cars’ larger siblings, Civic and Corolla. Accent is big on safety, too: Its long list of standard safety features includes a supplemental restraint system that keeps six airbags on guard to help protect you. Power? It’s got more horsepower than Toyota Yaris. Yet for all of its oversized accomplishments, Accent still sips fuel like a subcompact, with an EPA estimated rating of up to 36 miles per gallon (which bests the Honda Fit).1 And it’s backed by America’s Best Warranty, with a 10-year/100,000-mile limited powertrain warranty and five years of 24-hour roadside assistance.2 Of course, there is one thing you’ll find out about the Hyundai Accent that’s not very big at all: Its sticker price. EPA estimates for comparison. Your actual mileage will vary with options, driving conditions, driving habits and vehicle’s condition. See dealer for LIMITED WARRANTY details. Accent will have everyone in your inner circle wondering how you got so much car for so little money. Look around, and you see value. Under the hood, Accent’s 1.6-liter four-cylinder engine delivers up to 36 miles per gallon. With 110 horsepower and 106 pound-feet of torque, it’s ideal for both stop-and-go city driving as well as worry-free on-ramp entry. It’s also thoughtfully green, rated as a certified Ultra-Low-Emissions Vehicle (ULEV).1 Considerable thought was also devoted to a generous list of features. Air conditioning and a 60/40 split fold-down rear seatback come standard on the GLS 4-Door, as do eight cupholders, a handy maplight with sunglass holder, sun visors with illuminated vanity mirrors and a 6-way adjustable driver’s seat with armrests. Whew. Room, Reclassified Accent keeps you plugged in anywhere you go with an available Bluetooth®-enabled handsfree phone system.3 The cockpit also features a 6-speaker, 172-watt audio system that includes AM/FM/XM® Satellite Radio, an in-dash CD/ MP3 player and convenient iPod®/USB and MP3 auxiliary input jacks.4 Accent’s Alpha-series engine is the product of our multi-million dollar investment in powertrain research. Each engine is painstakingly assembled by hand to exacting standards. So exacting, in fact, that as a final quality check, each engine is run without fluids. Unless the machining and assembly are precisely to spec, the engine doesn’t leave our factory. Opt for the SE 3-door and grab hold of the leather-wrapped B&M Racing® Sport Shifter.2 An upgraded sport suspension uses higher-spec dampers, a beefier stabilizer bar and stiffer springs to give Accent SE the tools for big fun behind the wheel. Accent has so much space inside, it’s classified as a compact car by the U.S. Government. Want storage? No less than 10 easy-to-reach compartments are placed throughout the GLS interior. Utility is a beautiful thing. Engine advancements like Continuously Variable Valve Timing (CVVT) combine with transmission refinements like electronic overdrive to deliver eco-friendly driving at every turn...

Download Brochure for the Breva 1200 - City Motorcycles

BREVA V 1100 EXPERIENCE ITALIAN MOTORCYCLING The feeling begins the instant your eyes fall on the dynamic, muscular lines of this unique naked. The entire machine harmonises around the shape of Guzzi’s legendary but totally renewed 90° V-Twin. The Breva V 1100 embodies the classical spirit of Moto Guzzi in a contemporary, no-nonsense machine packed with high-tech features. The passion begins as soon as you sit on the superbly comfortable, anatomically moulded seat, and the electronic injection triggers the inspiring, rhythmic heartbeat of the unfailing and tireless engine. Yet it is only on the road that you really appreciate the comfort of the pace-setting suspension, the effectiveness of Guzzi’s patented compact reactive shaft drive, and the impeccable performance of the advanced chassis. Test ride the Breva V 1100, and experience for yourself just how versatile, easy, and satisfying it is to ride. Here is the ideal machine for new riders and experts alike, a true sports bike that’s also a tourer by nature and a naked by choice. The Breva V 1100 has many aspects to its character, but just one purpose in life: to inspire you with the joy of motorcycling, with no limits of time or distance. You would not look out of place riding a Breva V 1100 in shirt sleeves and tie, the silent, reliable shaft drive system is so clean. Yet shaft drive is not the only urban-friendly aspect of the Breva: the ergonomic positioning of the handlebars, seat and footrests gives you total, relaxed control, even in traffic and at low speeds. The smooth, progressive way the engine delivers its power, with plenty of muscle at low revs like all Moto Guzzis, makes rush-hour riding a piece of cake, and electronic injection guarantees instant acceleration away from the lights. The Breva V 1100’s excellent weight distribution makes it agile and responsive in sudden direction changes, while its powerful braking system acts as quickly as you can think. The front brakes feature two floating 320 mm discs with four-piston calipers, while the rear wheel is braked by a single 282 mm disc and a floating caliper with two parallel pistons. Long-stroke suspension soaks up the bumps of even the roughest road surfaces, pot-holes and speed bumps inclused, to bring you a unique level of comfort day after day...

Ford/New Holland PDF Catalog - Cross Creek Tractor - Tractor Parts

Cross Creek Tractor Co., Inc. Contents - Ford/New Holland Air Cleaners.................................... 51 Seats ............................................. 77 Clutch ............................................. 27 Sheet Metal ................................... 69 Cooling ........................................... 44 Steering, Add On Kits .................... 26 Electrical ......................................... 47 Steering, P/S Cylinders ................. 25 Engine, Crankshafts ......................... 9 Steering, P/S Pumps ..................... 24 Engine, Camshafts & Misc ............. 10 Steering, Sectors .......................... 20 Engine, Rebuild Parts ...................... 4 Steering, Sector Parts ................... 20 Front Axle, Axle Parts ..................... 13 Transmission, 4 Speed ................. 29 Front Axle, Hubs ............................. 13 Transmission, 5 Speed ................. 31 Front Axle, Spindles ....................... 12 Transmission, 6 & 8 Speed ........... 32 Front Axle, Supports ...................... 15 Transmission, 6 Cylinder ............... 36 Front Axle, Tie Rod Ends ............... 16 Transmission, Dual Power ............ 37 Fuel ................................................ 52 Transmission, Shuttle .................... 38 Hitch ............................................... 65 Wheels & Rims ............................. 75 Hitch, Stabilizers & Drawbars ......... 64 Hydraulics, Hydraulic Pumps.......... 57 Hydraulics, Hydraulic Pump Parts .. 60 Hydraulics, Lift Cover ..................... 62 Hydraulics, Misc ............................. 63 Manifolds & Mufflers ...................... 11 PTO ................................................ 40 Rear Axle, Differential & Brakes..... 67 Original part numbers for reference only. ...

How To Change the Spark Plugs in a Honda Odyssey

How To Change the Spark Plugs in a Honda Odyssey Main Index Alternate Index with Image Gallery Leave a Comment This document was last updated on Jan. 28/11: minor edit. Purpose This document provides information on how to change spark plugs in a Honda Odyssey. References Changing spark plugs is an important maintenance item that is often overlooked. The main signs of old plugs include degraded fuel economy and degraded power. Although driving conditions and habits can affect the lifespan of plugs, in my view it’s best to change them at 80-100% of the manufacturer's recommended interval, not sooner nor later. Factory installed plugs in the Honda Odyssey: One main concern regarding long-life plugs is the possibility that, after so many years, they will seize in the cylinder head and therefore cannot be easily removed, maybe even leading to expensive repair. To circumvent this danger, so the theory goes, folks suggest you remove the plugs at their midlife, inspect them for excessive wear, and, if all is well, apply anti-seize compound to the plug threads and reinstall. I think this practice is more so a carry over from the days when copper plugs were the norm, having less than half the life that today’s platinum and iridium plugs can provide. Back then, forgetting about your copper spark plugs for years past their interval was definitely a recipe for seized plugs. Here’s a worth-a-giggle thread about someone who questioned the need to even replace plugs (and other maintenance items) to begin with, inciting all kinds of opposition: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34681. Although the original poster had promised to leave the plugs in his van for 300,000 miles, he was eventually persuaded (page 4 of the thread) to change them out after only 180,000 miles, How To Change the Spark Plugs in a Honda Odyssey noting afterwards that he thought there was “more pep in the engine” though he did not see any improvements in fuel economy. Although that’s just one case, I’ve seen many similar claims from people who have changed their original untouched spark plugs at, or even well past, the recommended interval without encountering problems due to seized plugs. Of course there are always exceptions, but that’s the point: exceptions to a rule do not a rule make. What’s one of the golden rules: never force anything. We’re talking about a plug, if properly installed (and if the plug hasn’t been touched since being installed at the factory, that’s a good bet), that is only in there at 13 lbf-ft. What’s a reasonable force one should apply to get the plug out? The average person could probably apply 100+ lbf-ft of torque, the kind of brute strength you’d use to tighten wheel lug nuts. Sitting here now, nice and calm, would it make sense to you to apply 7 times the installed force just because the plug isn’t turning as expected? Of course not! But isn’t it human nature, hovered over an engine, uncomfortable, dirty, stubborn – strong – to keep pushing the limit until…break. Never force anything beyond its designed upper limit. If the plug won’t budge, maybe your engine is too hot, or maybe you haven’t properly seated your wrench on the plug, or maybe it’s due to some other cause – see the the FAQ section below for more details. In any event, here’s a worthy exercise: although you should never use your torque wrench to loosen bolts (it’s a precision instrument designed specifically for tightening bolts), you can put it to effective use here as follows: - using a regular lug nut wrench, loosen one of your wheel lug nuts until you can turn the nut by hand - set your torque wrench to 30 lbf-ft (~2.5 times your spark plug’s torque spec) and retighten the lug nut to that torque - now, using the wrench you plan to use for removing the spark plugs, get it on that lug nut and gently apply force until you start to see the nut loosen,...

NEW! A/C MANIFOLD GAUGE SET - Rogo Fastener Company

NEW PRODUCTS BULLETIN PAGE 1 OF 16 NEW! A/C MANIFOLD GAUGE SET Aluminum Automotive A/C Gauge Set. INCLUDES: Aluminum Blocks with• Sight Glass. 72” Hoses• Low Side Quick Coupler• High Side Quick Coupler• Solid extruded aluminum body.• Free-floating piston type valves;• reduce o-ring wear. Extra large sight glass for visual• refrigerant check. Large, easy-to-grip knobs.• Anti-flutter design gauges with PSI• and Fahrenheit scales. Professional Quality.• Aluminum Manifold Gauge Sets come complete with hoses and quick couplers for high and low ends. High quality anti-flutter gauges are easy to read and come in PSI and Fahrenheit scale. Easy calibration of the gauges helps in maintaining accurate readings, making this product both easy to use and functional. The new UV Phazer (Black) brings extremem performance and outstanding value to leak detection kits. Our new Spotgun Kit features a light, Spotgun injection system, one 8oz. UV Dye cartridge, service stickers, UV dye enhancing glass, and a sturdy case to make carrying all the items you need both easy and convenient! With this kit you can service up to 64 vehicles! Designed with proven features from Mityvac! INCLUDES: Silverline Elite hand vacuum/pressure• pump w/ 2” (50mm) compound gauge w/ rubber boot. 4.5 oz. (135ml) fluid reservoir bottle w/• fluid transfer and storage lids. 4 Tapered adapters for connecting• to tubing from .09” (2.3mm) to .50” (13mm) ID. 2 Tapered manifold plugs.• 4 Universal bleed screw adapters.• 12 Vacuum cap plugs.• Vacuum line T-adapters• (2) 1/4” (6.4mm) ID x 24 ”•..

Toyota Camry
by juni0r 0 Comments favorite 81 Viewed Download 0 Times

Toyota Camry The reality of the future projected by global warming experts and made even more real by Al Gore’s movie, An Inconvenient Truth, could cause even the most selfcentered individuals to reconsider how they live their lives and the impact that their behaviors have had and continue to have on the environment. With some 245 million registered cars in the United States alone, and knowing that cars in the US contribute nearly one-third of the CO2 produced by the US to the atmosphere (An Inconvenient Truth), concerned individuals might want to reconsider their transportation means. One of the most-highly touted answers to the problem of vehicles contributing to global warming has been the hybrid car. Running on a combination of electric and gasoline engines, the hybrid is designed to emit fewer pollutants and to provide better gas mileage than gasoline-only cars. If the choice is not what type of hybrid to get but whether a hybrid is a better choice to buy than a regular car, a car make that comes in both versions might be the best one to examine. A comparison of the Toyota Camry, as both a gasolineonly car and as a hybrid, in areas like actual cost and impact on the environment, reveals that the final decision may be more an act of conscience than an act of efficacy. According to Toyota’s official website, there are five different versions of the Camry, including the hybrid. Their MSRPs range from $18,470 for the 4-cylinder, manual speed CE to $26,200 for the Hybrid, which is listed as a 4-cylinder, Electronically-Controlled Continuously Variable Transmission (ECVT), which means essentially, that it is also automatic—you don’t have to shift it to drive. For comparison sake, the CE 4-cylinder 5-speed at $19, 520 will be considered comparable to the Hybrid. So, the Hybrid is $6,680 more than the CE If you are thinking that you could buy a more economical model, the Prius starts at $22,000, as does the Honda Civic). The question of tax credits might come up in this discussion. According to Lease-Guide.com, tax credits for hybrids depend on vehicle make but on many other factors, as well. The congress apparently only meant this tax credit to last for a limited time. When a certain number of a certain type of vehicle is sold, the credit ends (the number seems to be 60,000). So, there may not be a tax credit for your vehicle. The question of money saved on gas might also be figured in to the overall price. The average price for a gallon of unleaded regular gasoline seems to be around $2.25 a gallon. If you drove 12,000 miles a year, at 25 mpg (US Government rating for the 2007 Camry), it would cost you $1,080 a year in gas. For the Hybrid, the official rating is 35 mpg. That would cost $771 a year for that same 12,000 miles. You would save $309 a year. If the Hybrid costs $6,680 more than the regular Camry, you would make back the extra money in 21 years, assuming the car lasts that long. All of the safety features are exactly the same in both versions of the Camry. There are only a few features and options that the Hybrid has that the CE doesn’t. Those features are all on the LE versions. One drawback for music lovers is that the 6-CD changer cannot be bought for the Hybrid because of the extra electronics in its display to tell the driver what engine is running and other features about the Hybrid, itself. Warranties seem to be similar. According to C/NET: The 2007 Camry Hybrid is covered by a three-year/36,000-mile warranty for repairs and replacements, a five-year/60,000-mile power train warranty, and an unlimited-mileage rust protection warranty. The Camry Hybrid also has an eight-year/100,000-mile warranty on all hybrid-related components...

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