Found 4879 related files. Current in page 4
Diesel fuel injectors have always been prone to injector coking. However, the potential for negative impact on engine performance, emissions and fuel consumption is increasing, as injector designs become progressively more sophisticated. For example, the Euro 5 type injectors fitted to the Peugeot DW10 engine have 6 injector holes of size 110 microns, which is around the width of two human hairs. Injector holes for Euro 6 designs are predicted to go down to as little as 80 microns, with as many as 24 holes being used. Also contributing to this trend are other engineering factors such as increasing fuel injection pressures and temperatures. Finally, growing levels of biodiesel blending are also likely to increase coking severity. OEMs will need to know how their equipment behaves with respect to fouling and are keen to understand how different fuels and deposit control additives can control any coking that may occur. The engine used in the CEC injector coking test is a Peugeot DW10 2.0 litre common rail unit with a maximum injection pressure of 1600 bar, fitted with Euro 5 standard fuel injection equipment supplied by Siemens. The test procedure represents a step change in severity compared to the well understood CEC F-23-01 XUD9 method, which is based on a much older indirect injection engine. The method directly measures engine power, which is a function of the level of injector fouling.
1.0 OVERVIEW The HP EFI Universal Retrofit Kits (P/N 550-500 & 550-501) are designed for engines that have no off-the-shelf port fuel injection manifold available. It comes with almost all the components necessary for complete installation. Other components required are listed in this manual with guidelines for them. 2.0 SKILLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED Various skills and tools are required for the complete installation and successful use of this kit. Machining for the fuel injector bungs and fuel rails requires the use of a Bridgeport mill or similar piece of machining equipment. It is nice to have a digital X/Y axis readout. The injector bungs ideally should be TIG-welded to the intake manifold, which requires an experienced aluminum TIG-welder. They can also successfully be epoxied, but welding will guarantee good durability. The fuel rails will also require tapping and/or machining depending upon the fittings chosen. Hold-downs for the fuel rails will also have to be fabricated. These should be welded to the manifold, but they can be designed to be bolted down. The tuning of the fuel injection system requires that an individual have basic computer and engine tuning skills. A manual is included that includes detailed and comprehensive tuning instructions. NOTE: This kit is a universal kit. The level of skill and fabrication required will vary for every application.
CATEGORY 4 CONTINENTAL MOTORS AIRCRAFT ENGINE SERVICE INFORMATION DIRECTIVE COMPLIANCE WILL ENHANCE SAFETY, MAINTENANCE OR ECONOMY OF OPERATION SID97-3F SUPERSEDES: SID97-3E and SID07-3A Technical Portions SUBJECT: FAA APPROVED CONTINENTAL MOTORS, INC. (CMI) CONTINUOUS FLOW FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS. PURPOSE: Provide specifications and instructions for adjustment of CMI fuel injection systems. COMPLIANCE: MODELS AFFECTED: At Engine Installation, 100 hour/Annual Inspection, fuel system component replacement or as required if operation is not within specifications. All CMI continuous flow fuel injected engine models except L/TSIO-360-RB; TSIO520-L, LB, WB; GTSIO-520-F, K, N and GIO-550-A Engine Models. Supplemental Type Certificate Holder’s FAA approved instructions. WARNING Fuel System Operational Check is required after any of the following circumstances: (1) at engine installation, (2) during 100 hour and annual inspections, (3) whenever a fuel system component is replaced or adjusted, (4) when changes occur in the operating environment. The instructions and values provided in the document apply to CMI fuel injected engines that conform to the original type design. Refer to the Supplemental Type Certificate (STC) holder’s instructions for aircraft that have been modified from the original type design.
Many people are seriously injured through the use of no fault of your own, you've got a wound litigation. Most significant a great number considerations to carry out would be automatically consult a good injury attorney. Exactly how purchase the engineered to be most suitable on your exact circumstance? I actually do an injury lawyer try for everyone? Could be one of many highly recommended and imperative preferences, and definately will most definitely replace the volume of any likelihood condition wholesale.
NUMBER: 08 DD15-10 S.M. REF.: 3.2 ENGINE: DD15 DATE: September 2008 SUBJECT: 3.2 OIL PAN PUBLICATION: DDC-SVC-MAN-0002 Oil pan section 3.2 has been updated. Section Change 3.2 Oil Pan Call-outs have been updated. 3.2.1 Removal of Oil Pan Step 1: Open the oil ﬁlter and cap. 184.108.40.206 Cleaning of Oil Pan Step 1: Clean the oil pan and attaching hardware with clean fuel oil or solvent. 3.2.2 Removal of Threaded Insert Section 3.2.2 has been added. 3.2.3 Installation of Threaded Insert Section 3.2.3 has been added. 3.2.4 Installation of Oil Pan Section 3.2.4 has been changed. 3.2 OIL PAN Depending on the manufacturer, the oil pan (2) consists either of glass ﬁber reinforced plastic or aluminum. Sealing of the oil pan (2) takes place using a metal elastomer pre-formed gasket (3) for the aluminum pan or an elastomer gasket for the plastic pan. The oil pan seal has high sealing reliability and noise reduction. The oil pan (2) holds 40 liters of engine oil. In order to determine the engine oil level, there is a conventional oil dipstick. See Figure 1. 1. Bolt and Isolator 12. Bracket 2. Oil Pan 13. Dipstick and Dipstick Tube 3. Gasket 14. Clamp 4. Bolt 15. Adapter 5. Bolt 16. Seal 6. Nut 17. Threaded Insert Connecting Nut 7. Bracket 18. Seal Ring 8. Clamp 19. Threaded Insert 20. Seal Ring 9. Bolt 10. Bolt 21. Drain Plug 11. Bracket
If you're a thrifty soul like I am (notice I didn't say cheap), you'll want to save some dough by doing your oil change yourself. It's really easy, doesn't take a lot of muscle or time, and you can spend what you save by doing it yourself on some toys for your bike. Having previously purchased the Honda Service Manual (I figured it oughta come in handy for more than just an oil change), I purchased my supplies to do my own oil change at 4000 miles. I bought the Honda oil filter wrench because you can put a 3/8" drive ratchet on it to loosen or tighten the filter. It's not cheap, but it's a good one-time investment for your bike. If you've ever changed the oil and filter in a 4-wheel vehicle, it's the same concept, everything's just in a different place. Following the Service Manual, here's what I did. All sections italicized are direct quotes from the Honda Service Manual. NOTE: Change the engine oil with the engine warm and the motorcycle on its side stand to assure complete and rapid draining. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to warm the oil. Remove the oil dipstick. This provides an air gap for the oil to flow freely while draining. Locate the oil drain plug. It is on the left side, at the bottom of the engine. There is not enough space to use a ratchet, so I used a 17mm combination wrench. The open end included in your bike's toolkit will work fine. Loosen the drain plug, then place a drain pan under the drain plug. Remove the drain plug. Let the oil drain into the drain pan. Now the manual states: With the engine stop switch "OFF", push the starter button for a few seconds to drain any oil which may be left in the engine. NOTE: Do not operate the motor for more than a few seconds.
THE PERFECT OIL CHANGE The “Perfect Oil Change” is the easiest thing in the world to do. The problem is that oil changes are often seen as a chore, and the necessary time and attention are often skimped in the rush to get to something that seems more important. You may well be the first owner of the tractor to do this right. The first step is to get the motor good and hot. Run it for at least a half-hour, until the cylinder head is too hot to touch and the oil filter can is uncomfortably warm. This ensures that the oil is hot, which makes it flow easier, and it also makes sure that any crud in the oil is fully entrained and will come out with it. Park it, shut it off, and immediately remove the drain plug on the underside of the engine. Have a drain pan that will hold 6 quarts of oil under the drain. You’ll get a hot, oily hand, because the drain hole is big and most of the oil will come out in one big rush. Once that is draining, turn to the oil filter can, on the left side of the engine. Remove the cap by undoing the big hexagon bolt on the top. Don’t remove the filter yet. Next, locate the drain plug for the filter can – it’s on the bottom of the can, towards the front. It may have a hexagon head, or it may have a square head – either way, it’s usually all boogered up from people using pliers to remove it. Remove it, with a drain pan under the hole – this will allow the oil in the filter can to drain out. Now – go away and leave it alone. Find something else to do, but leave it to drain for at least an hour,...
Gear Case Oil Change BF2~BF30 Change the gear case oil with the engine stopped and the outboard in the vertical position. We suggest wearing nitrile BF2, BF20 (2 HP) gloves to protect your hands and facilitate clean-up. 1. Place a suitable container below the oil drain hole to catch the used oil. Remove the oil drain plug first, and then remove the oil level plug. OIL LEVEL HOLE/PLUG OIL DRAIN HOLE/PLUG Note: Be sure to use the proper tool when removing the oil drain and oil level plugs. If a normal screwdriver will not loosen the plugs, an impact driver should be used. The screwdriver blade should be a minimum of 10 mm x 1.5 mm to prevent damage to the drain and level plugs. Some plugs may have a Phillips head. Use a #3 Phillips bit, not a #2. 2. Allow the used oil to drain completely. If water or contaminated (milky-colored) oil flows out the drain hole when the plug is removed, or the oil is black and smells burned, have the outboard motor checked by an authorized Honda Marine dealer. GEAR OIL BOTTLE NOTICE Improper disposal of gear case oil can be harmful to the environment. If you change your own oil, please dispose of the used oil properly. Put it in a sealed container, and take it to a recycling center. Do not discard it in a trash bin, dump it on the ground, or pour it down the drain. BF5~BF30
Motor Oil Place the bike on the center stand (not the kick stand) The Drain Plug and the Dipstick for the motor oil are located on the right side of the bike. Place a drain pan under the Drain Plug and remove the plug with a 17mm socket or wrench. Lancepowersports.com A small spring and Screen Type Oil Filter will also pop out. Place these two items off to the side and wash them clean by flushing them with new 10W-40 motor oil. (If you keep the dipstick out of the motor, it will drain the oil faster) Let the motor oil drain until only a few drops fall every few seconds. Put the cleaned Oil Filter and the spring back into the engine as shown to the left. If done incorrectly, the filter will not be efficient in collecting dirt and sludge from the engine. Screw back on the drain plug using a torque wrench. The recommended torque for this bolt is 15 lbs/ft. Lancepowersports.com Using a funnel, pour 0.75 quarts of 10W-40 Motor Oil into the engine. We recommend using non-synthetic oil for the first oil change to help the engine break in properly. After the first oil change, feel free to use synthetic oil. Check the oil with the dipstick. Place the dipstick in the motor but do not screw it in. Pull it out and make sure that the oil reading is within the hash-marks, then add or drain oil accordingly until it is. Screw in the dipstick and run the bike for a minute or two and check the level to make sure that you have the proper level. Lancepowersports.com
Softail Oil Change From time to time I see question on the forum regarding doing an oil change on a Harley and more specifically about doing a scavenging oil change on a Softail. Since there didn't seem to be a good thread on doing an oil change with pictures, I thought I would write something up. This oil change was done on a 2001 Fat Boy. So, some of the tools and procedure may be different for your specific application. Tools Motorcycle lift 1/4" Allen head socket or long Allen head tool (for engine oil and transmission oil drain plugs) 3/8" Allen head socket or Allen head tool (transmission oil fill plug) 3/8" drive ratchet wrench 6" long 3/8" drive extension 3/8" drive universal joint (may or may not need depending on bike location on lift) 1/4" drive ratchet wrench T27 Torx head socket or torx head tool (primary cover screws) T40 Torx head socket or torx head tool (primary oil drain plug) Oil filter wrench Oil catch tool for filter (optional) Oil drain pan (preferably 2) Flashlight 3/8" Fuel / Oil line removal tool (Scavenging oil change ONLY) Clear tygon tubing (Scavenging oil change ONLY)