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Computer Programming - Community College of Rhode Island

COMPUTER SCIENCE – RIC TRACK (CRIC) ASSOCIATE IN SCIENCE (A.S.) DEGREE Knight Campus, Warwick only General Education Requirements This concentration prepares students for transfer to the Rhode Island College Computer Science program. Requirements allow students to earn an Associate in Science (A.S.) degree in Computer Programming at CCRI but also include courses required to meet requirements of the RIC Computer Science degree. Students paying full-time tuition at CCRI can take RIC courses for no additional cost. See page 27 regarding the inter-institutional agreement. Important: All students must obtain a grade of at least “C” in all computer course requirements and must maintain a 2.0 GPA. Note: Since RIC’s current registration policy does not allow for special consideration of CCRI students, each student is responsible for enrolling himself/herself during the RIC enrollment open period; since the RIC class size is limited, to avoid being shut out of a course, it is recommended that the students enroll in RIC courses as soon as enrollment opens; RIC courses are not usually offered in the evening or online.

Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis.pdf

Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.

BPI 10-06 Temporary reduction in power brake ... - Raybestos Brakes

No. BPI 10-06 Subject: Temporary reduction in power brake assist in extreme cold weather Vehicles Involved: Models: 2009 BUICK ENCLAVE 2009 CHEVROLET TRAVERSE 2009 GMC ACADIA 2009 SATURN OUTLOOK From 9J100008 From 9S100002 From 9J100016 From 9J100003 to to to to 9J190898 9S143268 9J190899 9J190888 Condition: If the brake check valves are NOT installed correctly, an increased amount of brake pedal effort will be required to obtain brake function, and the brake assist system will NOT perform as designed. Repair: Replace the first design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (1) with a second design brake booster vacuum hose check valve (2). An arrow on the second design check valve indicates the vacuum draw direction (3). 1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield (engine cover) from the engine. 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050  (815) 363-9000 Determine where the two brake booster vacuum hose check valves are located. Refer to callouts 1 and 2 in the illustration 2. Release the quick connect (4) from the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 3. Remove the protective wrap (5) from the brake booster vacuum hose to locate check valve # (1). 4400 Prime Parkway McHenry, IL 60050  (815) 363-9000 4. Remove the check valve (1) from the brake booster vacuum hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). 5. Remove the check valve (2) from the brake booster hose that routes to the intake manifold vacuum port (6). Note If necessary, a small amount of denatured alcohol can be used as an assembly aid for installing the vacuum hose to the manifold vacuum port. Do not use soap. 6. Install a new check valve (1) to the brake booster hose that routes to the power brake booster auxiliary pump (3). Ensure the arrow on the check valve (1) ...

Brake Booster - Subaru Outback Forums
by moncoZ 0 Comments favorite 0 Viewed Download 0 Times

(2) Four brake booster installation nuts A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts in the engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector of brake fluid level gauge. (2) Remove the brake pipe from the master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installation nut. (1) CAUTION: In order to prevent the contact of the bracket and check valve, be sure to loosen the master cylinder mounting nut while holding the bracket with hand. Otherwise it may deform the bracket. (1) Check valve (2) Bracket (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from the pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin Nut Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod Brake pedal 3) Remove the brake booster while avoiding the brake pipe. NOTE: • Make sure that the booster shell and vacuum pipe are not subject to strong impacts. • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. If the booster is dropped, replace it. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, the angle may change by r3°, and it may result in damage to power piston cylinder. • Be careful when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. CAUTION: • Do not disassemble the brake booster.

Safety Recall No. 983 Brake Booster Vacuum Hose

Safety Recall No. 983 Brake Booster Vacuum Hose Models 2000-2001 (PL) Dodge and Plymouth Neon NOTE: This recall applies only to the above vehicles equipped with a: Ø 2.0L engine (“C” in the 8th VIN Position) built through March 21, 2001 (MDH 0321XX) or a Ø 2.0L High Output engine (“F” in the 8th VIN Position) built through April 11, 2001 (MDH 0411XX). IMPORTANT: Some of the involved vehicles may be in dealer new vehicle inventory. Federal law requires you to stop sale and complete this recall service on these vehicles before retail delivery. Dealers should also consider this requirement to apply to used vehicle inventory and should perform this recall on vehicles in for service. Involved vehicles can be determined by using the DIAL VIP System. Subject The brake booster vacuum hose on about 350,000 of the above vehicles may swell due to oil contamination and become disconnected. A disconnected hose could cause a loss of power brake assist and an increase in engine idle speed. This can increase stopping distance and cause an accident without warning. Repair The brake booster vacuum hose must be replaced. © Copyright 2001, DaimlerChrysler Corporation, All Rights Reserved Safety Recall No. 983 -- Brake Booster Vacuum Hose Page 2 Parts Information Each dealer to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address) will receive enough Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses to service about 10% of those vehicles. Dealers should determine which brake booster vacuum hose is required for each vehicle at the time appointments are scheduled to assure that the correct part is available when the customer arrives. The vacuum hose for the vehicle to be serviced may be determined by: Ø Using the part code in the third column of the VIN list along with the following table (involved dealers); Ø Using the VIN and part number list electronically transmitted to DIAL System Function 53 (involved dealers); or...

SECTION 205-00 Driveline System — General Information

GENERAL PROCEDURES Driveshaft Runout and Balancing Special Tool(s) Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture 100-002 (TOOL-4201-C) or equivalent Mastertech® Series MTS 4000 Driveline Balance and NVH Analyzer (Vetronix) 257-00018 or equivalent Driveshaft Inspection NOTE: Driveline vibration exhibits a higher frequency and lower amplitude than high-speed shake. Driveline vibration is directly related to the speed of the vehicle and is noticed at various speeds. Driveline vibration can be perceived as a tremor in the floorpan or heard as a rumble, hum or boom. NOTE: Refer to Specifications in this section for all runout specifications. 1. NOTE: Do not make any adjustments before carrying out a road test. Do not change the tire pressure or the vehicle load. Carry out a visual inspection of the vehicle. Operate the vehicle and verify the condition by reproducing it during the road test. • 2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. • 3. The concern should be directly related to vehicle road speed, not affected by acceleration or deceleration or could not be reduced by coasting in NEUTRAL. The driveshaft should be kept at an angle equal to or close to the curb-weighted position. Use a twin-post hoist or a frame hoist with jackstands. Inspect the driveshaft for damage, undercoating or incorrectly seated U-joints. Rotate the driveshaft slowly by hand and feel for binding or end play in the U-joint trunnions. Remove the driveshaft. For additional information, refer to Section 205-01. Inspect the slip yoke splines for any galling, dirt, rust or incorrect lubrication. Clean the driveshaft or install new U-joints as necessary. Install a new driveshaft if damaged. After any corrections or new components are installed, recheck for the vibration at the road test speed.

driveshaft series 6Q – 175 – 250 - SPX Cooling Technologies

driveshaft series 6Q – 175 – 250 I N S TA L L AT I O N - O P E R AT I O N - M A I N T E N A N C E M92-1442B I SSU E D 4/2013 R EAD AN D U N D E R STAN D TH I S MAN UAL PR IOR TO OPE RATI NG OR S E RVICI NG TH I S PROD UCT. Before installing the driveshaft, be sure the motor and Geareducer are on level bases and that their shafts are in reasonable alignment. Note match numbers on the driveshaft flanges and remove the yokes. Coat the motor shaft and Geareducer shaft with “Thred-Gard” (Crane Packing Co.) or similar lubricant. Place the key halfway in motor and Geareducer shafts, then install yokes as shown in Figure 4. Use a rubber mallet or wood block when tapping yokes to prevent damage. Tighten each yoke set screw against key. Align match numbers on tube and yoke flanges and bolt the tube and flange assembly to the Geareducer yoke while supporting the motor end of the tube and flange assembly. Progressively tighten bolts to 60 ft·lbƒ (82 N·m) torque. Slide the motor so that motor yoke can be bolted to the tube and flange assembly without pushing or pulling on the bushings. Align match numbers and bolt the motor yoke to the tube and flange assembly. Progressively tighten bolts to 60 ft·lbƒ (82 N·m) torque. The distance between tube and yoke flanges should be as shown in Figure 4.

XT100-08am Driveshaft Vibration.pdf - JagRepair.com - Jaguar ...

X-TYPE DATE 05/04 Amended 09/04 XT100-08 TECHNICAL BULLETIN SERVICE Driveshaft Vibration – Diagnostic Method – Repair MODEL 2002-04 MY X-TYPE VIN C00001-E02938 Remove and destroy Bulletin XT100-08, dated 05/04. Replace with this Bulletin. Revisions are marked with a bar and in bold text. Issue: A new procedure has been developed for use after the WDS Vehicle Vibration Analyzer (VVA) has confirmed a vehicle vibration. Action: After a driveshaft vibration has been confirmed using WDS VVA, follow the workshop procedure outlined below. WORKSHOP PROCEDURE Note: There is no Labor Time Allowance to carry out road test diagnosis. Jaguar recommends a claim of 0.50 hrs. as straight time for VVA. Warning: Driveshaft bolts are one-time use only. Use new bolts for the final repair. Existing bolts may be reused throughout the diagnostic procedures. Raise vehicle on twin-post lift. Check for alignment of the green line on the rear differential flange with white paint spot on the rear of the driveshaft. If not aligned continue from step 3; if aligned continue from step 16. Remove the rear driveshaft joint to rear differential flange bolts and links where accessible. Rotate the driveshaft and remove the remaining rear driveshaft joint to rear differential flange securing bolts and links. Displace driveshaft from the rear differential flange. Remove and discard the gasket from the rear differential flange (where installed). Clean the mating faces. Install a new gasket to the rear differential flange, if previously installed. NOTE: THE INFORMATION IN TECHNICAL BULLETINS IS INTENDED FOR USE BY TRAINED, PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS WITH THE KNOWLEDGE, TOOLS, AND EQUIPMENT TO DO THE JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IT INFORMS THESE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR PROVIDES INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN PROPER VEHICLE SERVICE. THE PROCEDURES SHOULD NOT BE PERFORMED BY “DO-ITYOURSELFERS.” DO NOT ASSUME THAT A CONDITION DESCRIBED AFFECTS YOUR CAR. CONTACT A JAGUAR RETAILER TO DETERMINE WHETHER THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE. Date of issue 05/04 Amended 09/04

Suzuki Hayabusa 2000 - 2005
by nkono 0 Comments favorite 3 Viewed Download 0 Times

Suzuki Hayabusa 2000 - 2005 Engine Protection Cage installation instructions Items included in this kit Cage loop (1each) Side struts (2 each) Extended frame sliders (2 each) Hardware kit (1 each) (contents listed below) M10-1.25 x 70mm bolt (1 each) M10-1.25 x 80mm bolt (1 each) ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 x 2” bolts (2 each) ¼”-20 lock nuts (4 each) 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolts (2 each) Flange Bushings (2 each) M10-1.5 x 15 1/2" all thread rod (1 each) M10-1.5 hex nuts (2 each) 1. Follow installation instructions for extended frame sliders. (See page 1) Note: Do not attach delron tips or tighten extended frame sliders until all components are installed. 2. Place the cage loop inside short telescoping tubes on sliders (See fig. G), push the ¼”-20 x 1 ½” bolts through the bolt holes in the telescoping tubes from the outside and start the ¼”-20 lock nuts. Do not tighten lock nuts at this time. 3. Install the left side strut using the all thread rod, flange bushings and hex nuts provided. Slide the following components over one end of the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked with "L", side strut marked with "L" and one M10-1.5 hex nut. (See fig A) Slide the all thread rod through the swing arm bolt on the left side of the motorcycle. (make sure the flange bushing slides into the swing arm bolt) On the right side of the motorcycle slide the following components over the all thread rod in this order: flange bushing marked "R", side strut marked "R" and M10-1.5 hex nut. (you may need to hold the left side to ensure it stays in place) 4. Push the bottom of the cage loop towards the rear of the motorcycle while pulling the bottom of the left side strut towards the front until the bolt hole on the side strut meets the threaded hole on the tab welded to the cage loop. Attach the side strut to the outside of the tab on the cage loop with a 3/8”-24 x ¾” bolt. (See fig J) Do not tighten the bolt at this time. Repeat for other side. 5. Once all components are attached tighten all bolts and nuts. Be sure to torque all engine mount bolts to factory specifications. Torque the hex nuts on the all thread stud to 12ft lbs. We recommend using "blue" loctite on the all thread stud to ensure the hex nuts do not vibrate loose. 6. Install delron tips with ¼”-20 x 2” bolts and ¼”-20 lock nuts.

RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install - Suzuki Hayabusa - Gen 1

RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.

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