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The academic phase in everyone’s life brings in a rush of assignments either in school or college. It is a challenging time where deadlines have to be met, quality and creative content needs to be seen
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4-H Indoor Gardening Project: Making a Desert Dish Garden Prepared by Madge Balden Adams, former special assignment writer for Horticulture Evaporation is slowed down by protective coverings of wax or hairs or by a reduced surface area. (Many succulent plants have a spherical shape because a sphere has the smallest surface area for a given volume.) Succulents grow naturally in semi-deserts where long, dry periods are broken by short, rainy periods. Cacti are one kind of succulent. What to Do Materials Plants With just a few essentials, a few minutes, and your creativity, you can make a desert dish garden. All you need are some cacti or other slow-growing succulent plants, a shallow dish, and sand. That’s it. And the best part is that your garden in a dish will last for years with very little care. Succulents raised in dish gardens are even easier to care for than are single specimens. Fertilization is not needed because you do not want the plants to outgrow the container. You can buy cacti and other succulent plants from a ﬂorist or at a garden store that has a plant section. Choose plants of different sizes and shapes that will go well together to make an interesting garden. Choose plants that are in scale with the container you plan to use. Select small plants that grow slowly. Plants should ﬁll the container but not crowd it. Some suitable plants are:...
PACKAGE CONTENTS PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING. THIS WILL HELP YOU UNDERSTAND THE DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY AND WILL GIVE YOU INSIGHT TO THE TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NECESSARY TO SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE THE JOB. 1 Place car on jack stands. Check owner’s manual for correct jack points. Car should be at least 12 inches off the ground to allow the exhaust pieces enough clearance for removal and access to the lower hardware. Make sure the car is resting on all four jack stands securely. Open hood and place covers on fenders Remove engine cover by pulling upwards. Remove front wheels. 2 Remove wheelwell splash shields. Image shows location of fasteners. 3 Remove plastic undertray from bottom of engine bay. Image shows the location of fasteners. _________________ -2TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 4 Remove front bumper cover: Remove the screw holding bumper cover to the fender, about 1.0” back from wheel opening. Remove the 2 Phillip screws along with the 2 rubber buffers on top, between the head lamp and grill. R The rubber buffers come out by lifting the top rubber section with a thin flat blade screw driver. Gently raise this portion up to release the clip. Carefully pull bumper cover off part way and unplug outside air temp and fog lights if equipped. Then continue to remove bumper cover and set out of the way. _________________ -3TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 5 Drain Coolant : Loosen coolant fill cap on passenger side of engine bay. Remove drain plug, shown in photo. Drain coolant into large container and dispose of properly. Once coolant has finished draining, replace drain plug and tighten. Tighten coolant fill cap in engine bay. 6 Battery cover removal: Release the 3 clips shown in photo and lift cover. _________________ -4TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck cable behind battery. Remove the plastic clip securing the battery box duct (shown in photo, behind headlight) and lift out the duct assembly. 8 Remove air intake system: Squeeze both sides of the blue clip used to secure valvecover breather hose to rubber intake pipe and slide backwards to remove. Repeat process at the valvecover end of hose and remove. Unplug Airflow (MAF) sensor and temperature sensor. Loosen hose clamp attached to throttle body. Lift and unhook rubber strap securing airbox and lift whole airbox assembly straight up to remove. COVER THE OPEN THROTTLE BODY TO ENSURE NO FOREIGN MATERIAL GETS INSIDE DURING INSTALLATION
How to change the oil and filter on a KTM LC4 Revised on 10-26 This guide pertains to the following models: Adventure, SMC, Duke II & LC4E and is intended for the beginner. Some of the “tricks” described may be advantageous to the more seasoned owner. By no means is this guide to be construed as the “best” or only way to do this job. It is simply the way that works for me. Read it at your own peril. If you have read the previously posted valve inspect/adjust guide, you already know I'm a big fan of a clean and tranquil work space. No pets, wife, kids, gerbils... whatever. Drifty likes to play his laid back blues music, ... but if Godsmack relaxes and focuses your mind... Crank it! Successful wrenching is good mental therapy... Tool list This list is for the ’03 and later 640 Adventure. There appear to be a number of fastener and plug variations for prior years. The most notable differences are the switch from “outside” to “inside” frame drain locations; the size of frame filler plug and the change from a cartridge filter cover oring to a gasket. Revison 10-26-04 After input from Rad, rapiti, Markjenn and dirtrider... we have come to the conclusion that KTM if fond of making running changes in production without updating reference material. As far as I can tell, in mid '01 KTM switched from the o-ring cartridge filter cover to a gasketed cover. The lower right frame section, unless someone has more accurate data, remained a oval tube until, as far as we can tell... mid '02, at which time the section was replace with a "low profile" casting, making filter cover access considerably easier. So, if you have a early '02 or earlier it will have oval tube... a late '02 or later will have the flat casting. With input from valued members, we will attempt to cover variations as they arrise, if someone runs into something important, let me know ...
Every Ford Certiﬁed Pre-Owned vehicle comes with peace-of-mind warranty coverage. Our Comprehensive Limited Warranty covers more than 500 components for 3 Months/3,000 miles. Our fully transferable Powertrain Limited Warranty covers you for 6 Years/100,000 miles. Powertrain Covered Components Components shown are covered by the 6-Year/100,000-mile Powertrain Limited Warranty Coverage. Certain restrictions and exclusions apply. See your dealer for details or refer to your plan provisions. The following components are covered by the Ford Certiﬁed Pre-Owned Powertrain Limited Warranty Coverage: ENGINE TRANSMISSION FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE • All Internal Lubricated Parts • All Internal Parts • Axle Shafts • Axle Shafts • Cylinder Block • Seals and Gaskets • Bearings (Front and Rear) • Bearings (Front and Rear) • Cylinder Heads • Torque Converter • Flywheel • Transfer Case (Including All Internal Parts) • Final Drive Housing (and Rear Axle Housing for AWD) Including All Internal Parts • Drive Axle Housing (and Front Axle Housing for 4x4) Including All Internal Parts • Hubs, Automatic Front Locking (Four-Wheel Drive) • Driveshaft • Manifold (Exhaust and Intake) • Oil Pan • Oil Pump • Seals and Gaskets • Thermostat • Thermostat Housing • Timing Chain Cover • Timing Chain (Gears or Belt) • Turbocharger/Supercharger Unit (Factory-Installed) • Valve Covers • Water Pump • Transmission Case...
Program Highlights • Three levels of named component coverage • An exclusionary level of coverage • Eligible vehicles include current + 9 model years • Coverage terms up to 7 years/100,000 miles • Dealer profit participation reinsurance and retro programs available • Deductible options include $50, $100, $100 (disappearing) and $200 per repair visit • Advantage WRAP and Preferred WRAP coverage available • Transfer benefit • Additional benefits include: towing, jump-start, flat tire change, vehicle fluid delivery, lockout assistance, rental and hotel/motel reimbursement Coverage Levels Powertrain Gasoline/Diesel Engine: All internally lubricated parts, engine block, cylinder heads, exhaust manifold, expansion plugs, harmonic balancer, intake manifold, mounts, oil pan (excluding drain plug related failures), rotary engine rotor housing, timing belt/chain and tensioner, timing chain cover, valve covers, water pump, seals and gaskets (within component group). Surcharged coverage: supercharger/turbocharger (factory installed). Transmission: (Automatic, Standard or Transfer Case): All internally lubricated parts within the transmission including: cooler lines (metal), mounts, throttle valve cable, torque convertor, flywheel/flexplate, transmission and transfer case housing, transmission cooler, oil pan, vacuum modulator, external and internal control units, seals and gaskets Front/Rear-Wheel Drive: All internally lubricated parts within the drive/transaxle assembly including: axles and axle bearings, constant velocity joints/boots, drive axle housing, drive shaft support, differential cover, hub bearings, front hub locking assemblies, drive shaft, universal joints, four wheel drive actuator, seals and gaskets Fluids: All fluids in conjunction with a covered repair.
Micrologic 5 / 6 A (Ammeter) or E (Energy) trip units can be used on Compact NSX100 to 630 circuit breakers with performance levels B/F/H/N/S/L. They all have a display unit. They offer basic LSI protection (Micrologic 5) or LSI and ground-fault protection G (Micrologic 6). They also offer measurement, alarm and communication functions. The keypad can be used to make ﬁne adjustments in 1 A steps below the maximum value deﬁned by the setting on the dial. Access to setting modiﬁcations via the keypad is protected by a locking function displayed on the screen and controlled by a microswitch . The lock is activated automatically if the keypad is not used for 5 minutes. Access to the microswitch is protected by a transparent lead-sealable cover. With the cover closed, it is still possible to display the various settings and measurements using the keypad. Inverse time protection against overloads with an adjustable current pick-up Ir set using a dial or the keypad for ﬁne adjustments. The time delay tr is set using the keypad. Short-circuits: Short-time protection (Isd) Short-circuit protection with an adjustable pick-up Isd and adjustable time delay tsd, with the possibility of including a portion of an inverse time curve (I2t On). Short-circuits: Instantaneous protection (Ii) Instantaneous protection with adjustable pick-up Ii. Additional ground fault protection (Ig) on Micrologic 6 Residual type ground-fault protection with an adjustable pick-up Ig (with Off position) and adjustable time delay tg. Possibility of including a portion of an inverse time curve (I2t On). Trip unit menus. Neutral protection b On 4-pole circuit breakers, this protection can be set via the keypad: v Off: neutral unprotected v 0.5: neutral protection at half the value of the phase pick-up, i.e. 0.5 x Ir v 1.0: neutral fully protected at Ir v OSN: Oversized neutral protection at 1.6 times the value of the phase pick-up.
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Remove the stock horn and bracket from the stud it is mounted to and unplug the 2 wires. Remove the seat. Route the end of the wire and hose loom without the connectors. Starting in front of the fuel valve, route this loom behind the valve, over the fuel line over the rear cylinder head along the existing wiring or hoses - if your model has any. Follow the frame to where the back bone and seat support rails come together. Route the loom up into the general area where the compressor will mount (i.e. see diagram). Attach the hose to the 'Y' connector on the horns themselves. Attach the two black wires from the loom to the relay terminals #87 and #30, located between the air horns behind chrome cover. Attach the wires from the original horn to the remaining terminals #85 and #86 (NOTE: it makes no difference which wire goes to which terminal). Attach the relay to the back of the horn bracket assembly or up under the fuel tank using the small cable tie provided. NOTE: the terminals must point downward to prevent water from entering the relay! Install the horn assembly using the 1/4" thick chrome washer provided behind the horn mounting bracket. Use the original acorn nut and tighten securely. Check to see that the horns have at least 1/4" clearance between the engine, shift linkage and choke knob. They should be horizontal or angle down at the front just slightly. Take any slack out of the loom, keeping it up against the frame and away from the engine or exhaust, using several of the small cable ties provided.