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(2) Four brake booster installation nuts A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts in the engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector of brake fluid level gauge. (2) Remove the brake pipe from the master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installation nut. (1) CAUTION: In order to prevent the contact of the bracket and check valve, be sure to loosen the master cylinder mounting nut while holding the bracket with hand. Otherwise it may deform the bracket. (1) Check valve (2) Bracket (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from the pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin Nut Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod Brake pedal 3) Remove the brake booster while avoiding the brake pipe. NOTE: • Make sure that the booster shell and vacuum pipe are not subject to strong impacts. • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. If the booster is dropped, replace it. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, the angle may change by r3°, and it may result in damage to power piston cylinder. • Be careful when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. CAUTION: • Do not disassemble the brake booster.
Fifty percent less pedal force I n most of the models of the 1950s and 1960s, Mercedes-Benz provided a power brake booster manufactured by ATE. The booster does not pro- vide additional braking capacity, a common misconception, but rather reduces the pedal force required for braking. The power brake is a vacuum-assisted hydraulic component using the pressure difference between engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its operation. The power unit increases the pressure created physically in the brake master cylinder so that the same braking effect can be produced with less pedal effort. With a brake booster installed, the pedal force required for braking is reduced by 50 percent. The ATE T50 Brake Booster uses vacuum to “boost” the hydraulic brakeline pressure. The booster contains a hydraulic cylinder, a large vacuum piston that presses against the hydraulic cylinder, and a control circuit that regulates the vacuum flow based on brake-line pressures. This technology had been well proven since the early 1900s, and the T50 has been exceptionally reliable over many years of use. The Booster in action The power booster is a very simple design requiring only a vacuum source to operate. In gasoline-engine cars, the engine provides a vacuum suitable for the boosters. Because diesel engines do not produce a vacuum, dieselpowered vehicles must use a separate vacuum pump. A vacuum hose from the intake manifold on the engine pulls air from both sides of the diaphragm when the engine is running. When the driver steps on the brake pedal, the input rod assembly in the booster moves forward, blocking off the vacuum port to the backside of the diaphragm and opening an atmospheric port that allows air to enter the back chamber. Suddenly, the diaphragm has vacuum pulling against one side and air pressure pushing on the other. The result is forward pressure that assists in pushing the input rod, which in turn pushes the piston in the master cylinder. The amount of power assist that’s provided by the booster depends on the size of the diaphragm and the amount of intake manifold vacuum produced by the engine. A larger diaphragm will increase the boost.
The clutch master cylinder is a device that transforms mechanical force into hydraulic pressure. As the driver presses the clutch pedal, the pedal lever applies force to the clutch master cylinder which transmits hydraulic pressure to the clutch release (slave) cylinder that disconnects engine power to the transmission. Structure and Components [Conventional Type] Inlet Union Oil Spill Hole Aluminum Body Flare Nut Pipe Joint Boot Spring Primary Cup Resin Piston Push Rod Rel Secondary Cup Spring Metallic Clevis Damper Stud Bolt The clutch master cylinder structure consists of the piston, cups, and springs, built within a precision machined body. The primary cup, positioned on the leading side of the body, functions to create hydraulic pressure when fluid is forced inside by the piston. Located on the trailing side is the secondary cup, which guides the piston and prevents fluid from leaking. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the primary cup is blocked away by the piston from the oil spill port leading to the reservoir tank, pressure in the cylinder rises as the fluid is fed through the pipeline. When the clutch pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure and the force of the return spring pulls back the piston to relieve fluid back into the reservoir. The clutch master cylinder is what provides the necessary force to control the application of drivetrain power. 2 Clutch Master Cylinder Variations Clutch Master Cylinder Variations Conventional Port-less Type Stand Alone / Integrated Reservoir Type Types With and Without Stud Bolts Types With and Without Clevis Damper Types With and Without Clutch Booster ...
Excerpt from the article: Beware of your credibility blind spots, says Cara Hale Alter, author of The Credibility Code: How to Project Confidence and Competence When it Matters Most (Meritus, 2012).
This is a limited power-train warranty for a period of 3 months from the date of the original sale or 3000 miles from the mileage at the time of the original sale, (whichever occurs first), for repairs which are required as a result of defects due to material and/or workmanship to the power-train components as listed below: What Is Covered Engine All internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings, piston pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and bearings, camshaft and bearings, timing chain or belt, timing gears, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, valve guides, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shafts, hydraulic and solid lifters;. The engine block and heads are also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered components. Transmission All internal parts; torque converter; vacuum modulator and mounts. Does not include clutch assembly; pressure plate; flywheel; throw out bearing; worn synchronizers; cables or electrical items. The case is also covered if damage is caused by a Failure of any of the above covered items. Drive Axle All lubricated internal parts contained within the housings. Axle shafts, differential housing, transaxle housing & final drive housing.
Low, lean and exceptionally spacious, the 3-door Audi A3 and 5-door Audi A3 Sportback are ideal choices for those with an active, varied lifestyle. Both models are distinguished by their muscular, aerodynamic bodies, coupé-like lines, alloy wheels and signature Audi single-frame grille. Whichever of the powerful engine options you choose, the sporting promise of the A3 and A3 Sportback’s exterior is fulfilled in each car’s performance abilities. And, allowing you to enjoy that level of power in total control, ESP Electronic Stability Programme and electro-mechanical speedsensitive power-steering are also included as standard. Inside, a comfortable, ergonomically-designed cockpit, with its stylish 4-spoke steering wheel and matt inlays make driving these cars a sheer pleasure. Other functional options include acoustic parking and cruise control. But these are just some of many available options on the A3 and A3 Sportback models; read on and configure your very own A3 or A3 Sportback – from paints to upholstery, engine to floor mats. Vorsprung durch Technik.
2011 Triumph Daytona 675 and Daytona 675R New for 2011 is the Daytona 675R, a highly specified version of the award-winning Daytona 675 fitted with racespecification suspension and brake components as standard. To create the definitive version of the Daytona 675, Triumph turned to Swedish suspension specialists Öhlins. Together the companies specified Öhlins’ 43mm NIX30 forks and TTX36 rear monoshock units normally reserved for racetrack use and very close relatives of the items used on the championship winning MotoGP and world superbike machines. The iconic gold anodised forks feature 30mm cartridge internals, offering full compression and rebound damping and preload adjustment. At the rear, the TTX36 shock is smaller and lighter than previous Öhlins shocks and features a clever twin tube design for improved rider feedback. This twin tube technology creates positive pressure build up on both the compression and rebound stroke, guaranteeing a well-balanced action. As one would expect from such a quality unit, the TTX36 unit features a wide range of adjustment for preload, compression and rebound damping, the latter two made through separate adjusters on the top of the unit. As further evidence of the bike’s track capability, both front and rear suspension units come equipped to accept the sensors required for running datalogging equipment. Stopping the Daytona 675 are new Brembo monoblock calipers gripping 308mm discs and fitted with race arrangement braided brake lines and a bespoke 18mm Brembo radial master cylinder. The feedback and stopping power offered by this rigid four-piston set-up provides the kind of outstanding stopping power one would expect from a top-of-the-range sports machine. A full range of race parts are available to further develop the Daytona 675 and Daytona 675R under ...
From the very beginning, our engineers were determined to conceive something more than a redesigned car. They wanted to change the very idea of what a subcompact could be. Can we engineer a car that rolls onto the scene with best-inclass horsepower, while also delivering class-leading standard fuel economy? Can we conceive a fluid, aerodynamic profile with an interior cabin spacious enough to offer the most front and rear shoulder room in its class? Can we wave goodbye to the compromises inherent in traditional subcompacts? The all-new 2012 Hyundai Accent has all the answers. With three trim levels to choose from, there’s plenty to consider. The artful simplicity of the GLS 4-Door. The versatility of a wellequipped GS 5-Door. And the sport-inspired pleasures of the SE 5-Door. Each new model is molded with dynamic styling that is sure to raise eyebrows as well as expectations. What happens when you give an imaginative team of engineers the freedom to go beyond making changes to a car…and do something so different, it changes people’s thinking? Inquire within.
Industrial Brake Products Hydraulic Brake Systems Replacement Parts I INDEX HYDRAULIC BRAKES REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST DESCRIPTION PAGE NO. BRAKE ASSEMBLIES § § § § § § § 6x3, 8x3 Type H Brake 10x4 Type H Brake 14x6, 18x8 Type H Brake 6x3, 8x3TypeHM Brake 10x4 Type HM Brake 14x6, 18x8 Type HM Brake Pin Update Information 1 2 3 4 5 6 7-8 AUXILIARY COMPONENTS § § § § § § Hydraulic Brake Actuator Fluid Reservoir Bleeder and Pushbutton Control Cylinder and Pedal 10, 14, and 18 HM Parking Cylinder HM Control Units Miscellaneous Fittings, Tubing, and Accessories 9 10 11 12 13 14 AIR COMPONENTS USED ON AIR-OVER-HYDRAULIC PANELS § § § § § § § Pressure Clusters Moisture Ejection Valve Air Treadle Valve Relay Emergency Valve Protection Valve Emergency Valve Air Compressor 15 16 17-18 19-20 21 22-23 24 AIR-OVER-HYDRAULIC PANELS § § § § § § § AH-ERC Panel J070970 - J070973 AH-ERC Panel J070980 - J070987 AH-HRC Panel J071020 - J071027 AH-ARC Panel J089660 - J089667 AHM-ERC Panel J100650 - J100661, J103650 - J103661 AHM-HRC Panel J100330 - J100341, J103330 - J103341 AHM-ARC Panel J104400 - J104411, J104424 - J104435 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 AIR-RELEASING CYLINDER DISC BRAKE POWER CLUSTERS 32 33-34 1 INDUSTRIAL BRAKE SYSTEMS REPLACEMENT PARTS 6x3 TYPE H BRAKES, J23020; 8x3 TYPE H BRAKES, J2779 Item Part Description No. 1 Base 2 23023 Shoe & Lining 2399 Shoe & Lining 3 567DC Drilled Lining 393DC Drilled Lining 4 Bolt, Nut & Lock-washer 5 9405 Bushing 6 1958 Bushing 7 9408 Pin 8 9412 Pin 9 9413 Pin 10 9414 Retractor Spring 11 9429 Pin 12 9428 Anti-Drag Housing 13 9423 Pin No. Used 1 2 2 2 2 16 4 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (1) Order J73920, Pin & Bushing Kit (2) Order J105190, Anti Drag Kit (3) Order J105191, Clamp Nut Kit Part Number 6x3 8x3 J2398 J2398 J23021 J78844 J23024 J7846 J387 J387 (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) Item Part Description No. 14 Adjusting Sleeve 15 9432 Adjusting Nut 16 9433 Clamp Nut H Actuator (Includes 19a items no. 17 through 26) 17 Connecting Rod 18 Return Spring 19 Cylinder Body 20 Spring Guide 21 9399 Felt Seal 22 Cylinder Cover 23 Pin Guide 24 9390 Piston 25 666 Cup 26 9389 Cup Spring (4) Not Serviceable. Use J7841, H Actuator (5) Order J73918, 7841 Repair Kit...
Wagner Brake Pressure Differential Valve Rebuild | Muscle Car Research LLC 8/25/10 8:03 AM Home Wagner Brake Pressure Differential Valve Rebuild Sun, 05/30/2010 - 11:17am — SAH This document describes how to rebuild the Wagner brake pressure differential valve (sometimes called a "distribution block") and front disk brake pressure control valve (sometimes called a "proportioning valve") used on Ford and Lincoln/Mercury vehicles by replacing the internal parts that typically wear out after years of service. Tools needed: 5/8" socket or box wrench Clean brake fluid 1/2" socket or box wrench Liquid ammonia 9/16" open end or box wrench Isopropyl alcohol Needle-nose pliers Steel wool Dental pick (or other small, pointed tool) .38 caliber bore brush Heat gun Cotton swabs Small drywall screw The rebuild kit provided by Muscle Car Research LLC includes the following parts: O-rings Proportioning valve spring X-rings Copper crush washer The Wagner valves are identified by Ford engineering numbers that are stamped into the body of the valve. The parts in this kit can be used to rebuild the following valves (identified by both service part number and engineering part number): Valve Type Pressure Control Valve (Proportioning Valve) Pressure Differential Valve (Distribution Valve) Pressure Differential Valve (Distribution Valve) Pressure Differential Valve (Distribution Valve) Service Part Number Engineering Number(s) C7OZ-2B091-B C7OA-2B091-A, -C, C9OA-2B091-A C7ZZ-2B257-D C7ZA-2B257-E C8OA-2B257-J C8OZ-2B257-B C8ZZ-2B257-A C8ZA-2B257-E1, -E2, -G1, -G2, -J1, -J2, -L1 Arrange your valve, tools, and rebuild kit on a clean work surface. Let's get started! The first step is to inspect the valve and make sure that the exterior is undamaged. Check the port threads for damage. Make sure the valve is securely attached to the mounting bracket. A loose mounting bracket can be tightened up by lightly tapping the brass mounting tab with a ball peen hammer. If any of the brass port threads are stripped or damaged you're better off finding another valve. If your valve passes the exterior inspection you're ready to disassemble it and inspect the internal parts. http://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-wagner Page 1 of 5 Wagner Brake Pressure Differential Valve Rebuild | Muscle Car Research LLC 8/25/10 8:03 AM Disassemble valve: Use the wrenches or sockets to remove the brass fittings and the warning lamp switch. The piston inside the proportioning valve can be difficult to remove due to rust from a deteriorating spring. Whatever you do, do not attempt to push the piston out from behind by banging on it! There are small brass tabs in the end of the piston that will almost certainly be damaged (making the piston useless) if you try to force it out that way. The piston can usually be removed by threading a small drywall screw into the visible end of the piston and pulling after applying heat to the open end of the valve. Do not heat the valve so much that it might melt the plastic and rubber pieces at the other end of the piston! If heat and pulling don't work immediately, try soaking the piston with a good penetrating oil. Here's what you can expect to find after you've removed the piston, seals, and spring: Here's the piston from inside the distribution valve: Inspect the bores once the pistons have been removed. If the bores aren't perfectly smooth you should either replace the affected valve body or have the bores professionally sleeved. http://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-wagner Page 2 of 5 Wagner Brake Pressure Differential Valve Rebuild | Muscle Car Research LLC 8/25/10 8:03 AM Remove old rings and seals: Remove the old rings and seals from the disassembled parts. A dental pick makes it easy to get under the o-rings.