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RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install - Suzuki Hayabusa - Gen 1

RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.

Expert Communication Training

Excerpt from the article: Beware of your credibility blind spots, says Cara Hale Alter, author of The Credibility Code: How to Project Confidence and Competence When it Matters Most (Meritus, 2012).

Sony Alpha a7R Mirrorless Digital Camera-Body Only

Sony Alpha a7R Mirrorless Digital Camera-Body Only available for just £1,399.00 from Tip Top Electronics UK with fast shipping.Differing from the full-frame Sony Alpha a7, the Alpha a7R omits the low-pass filter from its 36.4MP sensor, thus optimizing its high resolution, detail-rich imaging capability.

MMA7660FC, 3-Axis Orientation/Motion Detection Sensor - Data Sheet

Document Number: MMA7660FC Rev 8, 03/2012 Freescale Semiconductor Data Sheet: Technical Data An Energy Efficient Solution by Freescale 3-Axis Orientation/Motion Detection Sensor MMA7660FC The MMA7660FC is a ±1.5 g 3-Axis Accelerometer with Digital Output (I2C). It is a very low power, low profile capacitive MEMS sensor featuring a low pass filter, compensation for 0g offset and gain errors, and conversion to 6-bit digital values at a user configurable samples per second. The device can be used for sensor data changes, product orientation, and gesture detection through an interrupt pin (INT). The device is housed in a small 3mm x 3mm x 0.9mm DFN package. MMA7660FC: XYZ-AXIS ACCELEROMETER ±1.5 g Features Digital Output (I2C) 3mm x 3mm x 0.9mm DFN Package Low Power Current Consumption: Off Mode: 0.4 µA, Standby Mode: 2 µA, Active Mode: 47 µA at 1 ODR Configurable Samples per Second from 1 to 120 samples a second. Low Voltage Operation: – Analog Voltage: 2.4 V - 3.6 V – Digital Voltage: 1.71 V - 3.6 V Auto-Wake/Sleep Feature for Low Power Consumption Tilt Orientation Detection for Portrait/Landscape Capability Gesture Detection Including Shake Detection and Tap Detection Robust Design, High Shocks Survivability (10,000 g) RoHS Compliant Halogen Free Environmentally Preferred Product Low Cost 10 LEAD DFN CASE 2002-03

QRD1113 / QRD1114 Reflective Object Sensor - Fairchild ...

Description The QRD1113 and QRD1114 reflective sensors consist of an infrared emitting diode and an NPN silicon phototransistor mounted side by side in a black plastic housing. The on-axis radiation of the emitter and the on-axis response of the detector are both perpendicular to the face of the QRD1113 and QRD1114. The phototransistor responds to radiation emitted from the diode only when a reflective object or surface is in the field of view of the detector. Phototransistor Output No-Contact Surface Sensing Unfocused for Sensing Diffused Surfaces Compact Package Daylight Filter on sensor Schematic 2 3 1 4 PIN 1. Collector PIN 3. Anode PIN 2. Emitter PIN 4. Cathode Ordering Information Part Number QRD1113 QRD1114 Operating Temperature -40 to +85°C © 2005 Fairchild Semiconductor Corporation QRD1113 / QRD1114 Rev. 1.2.0 Package Top Mark Packing Method Custom 4L QRD1113 Bulk Custom 4L QRD1114 Bulk www.fairchildsemi.com 1 QRD1113 / QRD1114 — Reflective Object Sensor June 2013 Stresses exceeding the absolute maximum ratings may damage the device. The device may not function or be operable above the recommended operating conditions and stressing the parts to these levels is not recommended. In addition, extended exposure to stresses above the recommended operating conditions may affect device reliability. The absolute maximum ratings are stress ratings only. Values are at TA = 25°C unless otherwise specified. Symbol Parameter Min. TOPR Operating Temperature TSTG Storage Temperature TSOL-I Lead Temperature (Solder Iron)(1,2,3) 240 for 5 s TSOL-F Lead Temperature (Solder Flow)(1,2) Unit -40 to +85 260 for 10 s -40 to + 100 °C EMMITER IF Continuous Forward Current 50 mA VR Reverse Voltage 5 V PD Power Dissipation 100 mW VCEO Collector-Emitter Voltage 30 VECO Emitter-Collector Voltage SEMSOR PD V V Power Dissipation(4) 100 mW

Design of All Digital FM Receiver Circuit - OpenCores

1. Introduction The design of the All Digital FM Receiver circuit in this project uses Phase Locked Loop (PLL) as the main core. The task of the PLL is to maintain coherence between the input (modulated) signal frequency, ωi and the respective output frequency, ωo via phase comparison. This self-correcting ability of the system also allows the PLL to track the frequency changes of the input signal once it is locked. Frequency modulated input signal is assumed as a series of numerical values (digital signal) via 8-bit of analog to digital conversion (ADC) circuit. The FM Receiver gets the 8 bit signal every clock cycle and outputs the demodulated signal. The All Digital FM Receiver circuit is designed using VHDL, then simulated and synthesized using ModelSim SE 6 simulator and Xilinx ISE 6.3i, respectively. FPGA implementation also provided, here we use Virtex2 device. The real measurement is done using ChipScope Pro 6.3i. 2. Architecture Description The system of All Digital FM Receiver consists of a digital PLL cascaded with digital low pass filter. The block diagram of system is shown in Fig. 1.

Shadow ACE 750 Oil Change - Strictly ACE 750

If you're a thrifty soul like I am (notice I didn't say cheap), you'll want to save some dough by doing your oil change yourself. It's really easy, doesn't take a lot of muscle or time, and you can spend what you save by doing it yourself on some toys for your bike. Having previously purchased the Honda Service Manual (I figured it oughta come in handy for more than just an oil change), I purchased my supplies to do my own oil change at 4000 miles. I bought the Honda oil filter wrench because you can put a 3/8" drive ratchet on it to loosen or tighten the filter. It's not cheap, but it's a good one-time investment for your bike. If you've ever changed the oil and filter in a 4-wheel vehicle, it's the same concept, everything's just in a different place. Following the Service Manual, here's what I did. All sections italicized are direct quotes from the Honda Service Manual. NOTE: Change the engine oil with the engine warm and the motorcycle on its side stand to assure complete and rapid draining. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to warm the oil. Remove the oil dipstick. This provides an air gap for the oil to flow freely while draining. Locate the oil drain plug. It is on the left side, at the bottom of the engine. There is not enough space to use a ratchet, so I used a 17mm combination wrench. The open end included in your bike's toolkit will work fine. Loosen the drain plug, then place a drain pan under the drain plug. Remove the drain plug. Let the oil drain into the drain pan. Now the manual states: With the engine stop switch "OFF", push the starter button for a few seconds to drain any oil which may be left in the engine. NOTE: Do not operate the motor for more than a few seconds.

Oil Change - How to do the

THE PERFECT OIL CHANGE The “Perfect Oil Change” is the easiest thing in the world to do. The problem is that oil changes are often seen as a chore, and the necessary time and attention are often skimped in the rush to get to something that seems more important. You may well be the first owner of the tractor to do this right. The first step is to get the motor good and hot. Run it for at least a half-hour, until the cylinder head is too hot to touch and the oil filter can is uncomfortably warm. This ensures that the oil is hot, which makes it flow easier, and it also makes sure that any crud in the oil is fully entrained and will come out with it. Park it, shut it off, and immediately remove the drain plug on the underside of the engine. Have a drain pan that will hold 6 quarts of oil under the drain. You’ll get a hot, oily hand, because the drain hole is big and most of the oil will come out in one big rush. Once that is draining, turn to the oil filter can, on the left side of the engine. Remove the cap by undoing the big hexagon bolt on the top. Don’t remove the filter yet. Next, locate the drain plug for the filter can – it’s on the bottom of the can, towards the front. It may have a hexagon head, or it may have a square head – either way, it’s usually all boogered up from people using pliers to remove it. Remove it, with a drain pan under the hole – this will allow the oil in the filter can to drain out. Now – go away and leave it alone. Find something else to do, but leave it to drain for at least an hour,...

C6 Changing The Sixth Generation Corvette Oil - theredlion.us

Changing the sixth generation Corvette Oil Difficulty: 2 out of 5. Time required: Plan on about 1.5 hours taking your time. Tools required: Ramps, Floor jack, Jack stand(s), 13mm wrench or socket, Oil filter wrench, lifting puck, wheel stops, shop rag. Materials required: 1 compatible oil filter, 6 quarts of compatible oil. Capacities are 5.5 Quarts with a filter change for the non-Z51 and 6 quarts with a filter change on the cars with the RPO Z51. Recommended oil is Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W-30 (GM spec 4718M). Recommended Oil filter is GM UPF44 (2005), UPF46 (2006) UPF48 (2007-2009) If you have access to a lift you can skip to step 6. If you are doing this at home without access to a lift continue to the photos below. Step 1. Get the car up in the air. I use a couple of 2x4’s and my rhino ramps. The 2x4’s will give enough clearance to get up on the Rhino ramps without deflecting the side air dams. Step 2. Get yourself a little more clearance on the driver’s side for easier access to the oil drain plug and filter. Once I have the car up on the ramps I take my floor jack and jacking puck and raise the drivers side further. Don’t forget to block the rear tires once you have the car up on the ramp. Step 3. Get yourself some extra room. Once the jack is in place and the car is up out of the way I will turn the ramp around so that you have easy access behind the tire. Step 4. Place a jack stand up front under the frame support and lower the car back down. Now that the car is lifted and safely supported you can begin the process of changing out the oil. Step 5. Place your oil pan under the drain plug. I like to use a piece of cardboard under the drain pan to collect any oil that may miss the pan during the process of removing the...

Oil Change
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Motor Oil Place the bike on the center stand (not the kick stand) The Drain Plug and the Dipstick for the motor oil are located on the right side of the bike. Place a drain pan under the Drain Plug and remove the plug with a 17mm socket or wrench. Lancepowersports.com A small spring and Screen Type Oil Filter will also pop out. Place these two items off to the side and wash them clean by flushing them with new 10W-40 motor oil. (If you keep the dipstick out of the motor, it will drain the oil faster) Let the motor oil drain until only a few drops fall every few seconds. Put the cleaned Oil Filter and the spring back into the engine as shown to the left. If done incorrectly, the filter will not be efficient in collecting dirt and sludge from the engine. Screw back on the drain plug using a torque wrench. The recommended torque for this bolt is 15 lbs/ft. Lancepowersports.com Using a funnel, pour 0.75 quarts of 10W-40 Motor Oil into the engine. We recommend using non-synthetic oil for the first oil change to help the engine break in properly. After the first oil change, feel free to use synthetic oil. Check the oil with the dipstick. Place the dipstick in the motor but do not screw it in. Pull it out and make sure that the oil reading is within the hash-marks, then add or drain oil accordingly until it is. Screw in the dipstick and run the bike for a minute or two and check the level to make sure that you have the proper level. Lancepowersports.com

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