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Installation Instructions 1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove rear lower cowling. 3. Remove OEM mufflers. V.A.L.E. TM 2008 Suzuki V a r i a b l e A x i s L o c k i n g E x h a u s t HAYABUSA V.A.L.E.™ Complete Exhaust System with M-2 Canister Part # 005-1930106V / 005-1930107V / 005-1930108V 8. 9. 4. The horn should also be removed for more radiator clearance. Install the TBR head pipes. (Each piece is labeled for proper postioning). From Left to Right, install head pipes 1, 2, 3, and then 4. Use the OEM gasket between the head pipes and cylinder head. Remove cowling from both the left and right sides. “M” Parts List Qty. Description 1 15” Muffler Canister 1 4-2-1 Slip-on Tube 1 4-2-1 Header Assembly 1 HARDWARE KIT 1 8x55mm Socket Head Flat Bolt (Black) 6 80mm Springs 1 8x16mm Flange Bolt 4 6x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw 1 Barrel Clamp 1 5mm Long Handle Ball End Hex Wrench 4 6mm Split Lock Washer 2 TBR Script Logo Yellow Decal 4” “1” Muffler Slip-tube Part Number Varies 005-19301S 005-19301HK 005-193-3C 005-SHF855B 005-S-80 005-FB816 005-SH814 005-27-66MSH 005-9-18610 005-WL6 015-10208-A 5. “2” “3” “R” “4” Remove radiator braces. 6. “L ” Remove O2 sensore from OEM head pipe. 10. Install the collectors to the bottom of the head pipes. The collectors are labeled “L for left and “R” for Right. ” IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ CAREFULLY We recommend that this performance part be installed by a qualified motorcycle technician. If you have any doubts as to your ability to install this performance part, please consult with your local motorcycle dealer. Read all instructions first before starting installation. Make sure the motorcycle and exhaust system are completely cool before starting the installation. Also, make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift during installation. Be sure to save all stock components for possible use later.
RCC Turbos - Stage 1 Turbo Install: Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen 1) • Preparation/Disassembly: Remove the seat. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the stock fuel pump from the tank. Remove the air box. Remove the MAP sensor and temperature sensor from the air box. Remove left and right side fairings. Drain engine oil. Drain engine coolant. Remove the oil filter Remove the oil restrictor, behind the filter. Remove the oil cooler lines. Remove the radiator and oil cooler, as one unit, leaving only the bracket/support for radiator (before reinstalling the radiator please remove all the tabs along the bottom of the radiator). Remove the entire exhaust system. Remove the PAIR system. Remove the oil pan from the engine. • Sensor Bracket Modification: On the left hand side of bike, on the inside of the frame, you will see a bracket, with a plastic vacuum canister, vacuum control solenoid valve, atmospheric pressure sensor, and some vacuum lines, with a check valve in the vacuum line. Please remove this entire bracket, eliminate all the vacuum lines, the plastic canister, and the control solenoid valve, and also cut off the metal tab that held the vacuum canister. Then reinstall this bracket with only the atmospheric pressure sensor, and plug the wires back in. • Tap/plug PAIR System Holes: Tap the four small PAIR system holes, above the exhaust ports, with an M6 x 1.0 tap. Install the four small M6 screws into the exhaust holes after tapping them. • Modify the Oil Pan: Drill a ¾” hole on the left side of the oil pan. Use thread sealant on the washer, and red Loctite on the threads. Make sure the sealing washer is against the inside of pan, then the stainless flat washer, then the nut. Once the fitting is installed, reinstall the oil pan. • Install Header/Turbo/Oil Lines/Exhaust: Install the header and turbo as a unit, but with the bolts loose. Use four of your original header bolts on the top of the turbo header (Allen head). Use the four new bolts on the bottom row of the header (M8, 10mm flange head). PLEASE NOTE! After installing the dump pipes and waste gate, the nipple on the top of the waste gate remains open, and no hose gets installed on the top fitting. The top fitting is used for boost control on Stage 2 and higher end kits. It is not used on Stage 1 kits.
Excerpt from the article: Beware of your credibility blind spots, says Cara Hale Alter, author of The Credibility Code: How to Project Confidence and Competence When it Matters Most (Meritus, 2012).
Low, lean and exceptionally spacious, the 3-door Audi A3 and 5-door Audi A3 Sportback are ideal choices for those with an active, varied lifestyle. Both models are distinguished by their muscular, aerodynamic bodies, coupé-like lines, alloy wheels and signature Audi single-frame grille. Whichever of the powerful engine options you choose, the sporting promise of the A3 and A3 Sportback’s exterior is fulfilled in each car’s performance abilities. And, allowing you to enjoy that level of power in total control, ESP Electronic Stability Programme and electro-mechanical speedsensitive power-steering are also included as standard. Inside, a comfortable, ergonomically-designed cockpit, with its stylish 4-spoke steering wheel and matt inlays make driving these cars a sheer pleasure. Other functional options include acoustic parking and cruise control. But these are just some of many available options on the A3 and A3 Sportback models; read on and configure your very own A3 or A3 Sportback – from paints to upholstery, engine to floor mats. Vorsprung durch Technik.
INSTALLATION GUIDELINES FOR: TRIUMPH DAYTONA 675 / (Kit # 69-3064): 1) Be sure to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts and periodically check them for tightness. 2) Remove the stock stabilizer by finding each end of the stock unit. One end is attached to the lower side of the triple clamp and can be removed by using a 5mm Allen wrench accessing the bolt from the upper side of the bottom triple clamp. The other end of the stabilizer has a rubber boot covering the Heim joint. Roll the boot back and you can access the other 5mm Allen bolt. This bolt is some cases can be very tight, so as an option you can remove the upper radiator mount, which can be removed by pulling 3 small bolts. This just allows easier access to the Allen bolt that holds the rear of the stock stabilizer. Once the stock damper is removed the radiator bracket can be re-installed. 3) Remove the large main nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. This is an odd-size nut (37.5mm) so you may need to use a crescent wrench to remove it, if you don’t have that size socket. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the steering stem with the “machined register” indexing over the back of your stock triple clamp. It’s machined to fit perfectly over the back edge of the triple clamp. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Install the new 32mm main nut that we provide in the kit. This goes inside the recess on the TC mount and should be tightened to the recommended Torque setting from the factory. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 7) (Note: 32mm sockets are available from Sears at a reasonable price, should you not have one in your tool set). 8) Remove the (2) stock-front-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer (6x30mm) bolts provided in the kit.
From the very beginning, our engineers were determined to conceive something more than a redesigned car. They wanted to change the very idea of what a subcompact could be. Can we engineer a car that rolls onto the scene with best-inclass horsepower, while also delivering class-leading standard fuel economy? Can we conceive a fluid, aerodynamic profile with an interior cabin spacious enough to offer the most front and rear shoulder room in its class? Can we wave goodbye to the compromises inherent in traditional subcompacts? The all-new 2012 Hyundai Accent has all the answers. With three trim levels to choose from, there’s plenty to consider. The artful simplicity of the GLS 4-Door. The versatility of a wellequipped GS 5-Door. And the sport-inspired pleasures of the SE 5-Door. Each new model is molded with dynamic styling that is sure to raise eyebrows as well as expectations. What happens when you give an imaginative team of engineers the freedom to go beyond making changes to a car…and do something so different, it changes people’s thinking? Inquire within.
June 2011 Troubleshooting Trailer Lights Have a light out! Let’s see why… A simple 7-way socket circuit checker and plug circuit checker are great tools to keep onboard. If you’ve noticed you have flickering lights or a group of lights out, there could be several reasons for the malfunction. Let’s troubleshoot the problem by following the simple steps below. 1. Clean both 7-way sockets on the tractor and trailer, then also clean both plugs on your electrical cable with a 7-way plug and socket brush. This may remedy your problem. 2. On the tractor, insert a socket circuit checker, into your 7-way socket. 3. Go inside the cab, and turn on each of the circuits individually, i.e. Marker Lights, Tail Lights, etc 4. Check the tester to see that only 1 LED is lit. If the proper LED’s light up, connect your 7-way electrical cable to the tractor and use the 7-way plug tester at the other end of the cable. a. b. wed c. 6. If no LED’s are lit, check fuses and relays inside the tractor. a. b. If the tractors fuses and relays are working properly, then measure the voltage of the correlating circuit breakers on the tractors 7-way socket. If there is no voltage, then there is a cut or loose wire from the fuse box to the back of the tractor. Note: You cannot diagnose a wiring problem directly at the front of the trailer with a tester, only at the back of the trailer if it is set-up as a “pup” trailer (a tractor pulling two or three trailers at a time). In which case, plug the light/ circuit tester at the rear of the trailer. Then simply turn on the flashers, marker lights, and engage the brakes to determine if all the circuits are working properly. The same process can be used by using a 7-way plug circuit checker on a 7-way cable when plugged into the back of the tractor. If the LED’s light up correctly, we have determined the problem is somewhere on the trailer. Check the circuit breakers on the trailers 7way nosebox. They may be bad or simply need to be tightened. If the circuit breakers are working properly and you still have a problem. We can assume the problem is with the trailer wiring.
kratkovida (mozda potkupljena?) nemacka elita je Bizmarka sklonila, iako je on pravilno procenio da jos nije doslo vreme da se suprotstavlja engleskoj sili. Epilog je poznat, "savez tri cara" je postao "savez dva cara", desio se Veliki rat u kome su nestala sva tri carstva. Engleska je naravno opstala.
DODGE FRONT LOWER CROSSMEMBER REPLACEMENT The left and right fender and shotgun rail assemblies on the 2002 and later Dodge Ram, 2004 and later Dodge Durango, and the 2005 and later Dodge Dakota, are connected in the front by two radiator crossmembers. Both crossmembers are bolted to the rail assemblies. The upper crossmember is bolted on from the outside, and easily removed. The lower crossmember, however, is sleeved over or into the shotgun rail on both ends 75 mm. Until the Chrysler Group ﬁnalized a procedure recently, the lower radiator crossmember could not be replaced unless one of the fender and shotgun rail assemblies was being sectioned. Now, if just the lower radiator crossmember is damaged, it can be replaced without sectioning the fender and shotgun rail assemblies. There are different conﬁgurations of this lower crossmember, depending on the model and model year. The 2006 and later Durango and Ram, for example, have slotted holes across the front (see Figure 1). The Dakota has a lower bar attachment that must be removed at least on one side before removing the crossmember. This procedure will be shown to replace the damaged front lower radiator crossmember on the 2004 Durango shown in Figure 2. This procedure can be modiﬁed for the other designs. The replacement part for the Durango that is shown includes a support bracket for the A/C condenser (see...