Found 4692 related files. Current in page 10
Removal (Diamante) 1) Remove hood. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator. Release fuel system pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain engine oil and transaxle oil. Remove front exhaust pipe. Remove transaxle assembly. See appropriate CLUTCHES or TRANSMISSION SERVICING article. 2) Disconnect accelerator cable, brake booster vacuum hose, fuel supply and return lines, and heater hoses. Disconnect EGR temperature sensor (if equipped). Unplug vacuum hose connector. Remove drive belts. Remove power steering pump and A/C compressor, leaving hoses attached. 3) Unplug all harness connectors. Remove bolt from body ground connection. Disconnect alternator wiring inside relay box. Remove relay box and engine wiring harness connection. On models with ABS, remove radiator overflow tank and bracket. 4) Attach engine hoist. Raise engine enough to take weight from mounts. Remove engine mount bracket. Remove damper. Remove rear roll stopper bracket mount bolt. Remove front roll stopper bracket mount bolt. Carefully lift engine from car. Installation (Diamante) To install, reverse removal procedure. Install engine mount bracket so that arrow points away from engine, toward body. Install new "O" rings on fuel lines. Install new exhaust gaskets and nuts. Adjust throttle cable. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE at the end of this article. Replenish fluids. CAUTION: DO NOT allow foreign material into turbocharger air intake hoses or pipes.
www.tuneyourengine.com. 1994 - 1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 ECU Diagram. Connector A. Connector B Connector C. Connector D. Pin #. Name. Signal Type. Connector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground GroundConnector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground GroundConnector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground Ground
As soon as you part around the realm of web site building, there will be a great deal of carpet you'll have to deal with. For a fact, going on line combined with marketing or advertising your products and consequently providers throughout the world is a massive tip to the increase of your organisation. But, not many entrepreneur that will passes via internet does which virtually every entrepreneur wants with regard to: to remain #1. That's the reason, this inauguration pertaining to Search engine optimizing Talking to materialized and began to remodel the most unusual and so basic approach of internet affiliate marketing.
This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Power Brake Booster, Replacing Power Brake Booster, Replacing Preparation Disconnect the battery lead Removal Preparations for removing the power brake booster Switch off the ignition. Remove the cross member. (On 5 cylinder engines): Remove the screws and nuts from the engine mounting. Lift out the cross member. Remove the air cleaner (ACL) housing. Remove the plastic cap and the cable holder. Remove the integrated relay/fusebox. Preparations for removing the ABS unit Clean the brake pipes terminals at the master cylinder and ABS unit. Place paper under the master cylinder to avoid brake fluid spillage. Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder and the ABS unit. Plug the master cylinder socket for the brake pipes. Remove the ABS unit and bracket from the side member The unit is secured with three screws. NOTE: Store the ABS unit in such a way that no dirt can get into the pipe couplings. Preparations for removing the master cylinder NOTE: On cars with 6-cylinder engines: Disconnect the connectors from the master cylinder. Mark up a connector. Disconnect the connectors on the power brake booster. NOTE: If the car has hydraulic clutch: Block the hose to the clutch cylinder. Use hose pliers. Remove the master cylinder Avoid brake fluid spillage when removing. NOTE: Ensure that the gasket between the power brake booster and the master cylinder stays in place on the master cylinder. Remove the soundproofing panel and the power brake booster Transfer the components to the new power brake booster Transfer: ...
CONTENTS, PART I - Consists of the bleeding procedure for the Hydraulic Brake Booster only. The Hydraulic Brake Booster works in conjunction with the Power Steering Pump and the Power Steering Gear. CONTENTS, PART II - Consists of bleeding procedure for the Brake System. The Brake System consists of the Master Cylinder and the Wheel Cylinders. The Hydraulic Booster System uses power steering fluid. IMPORTANT! The Brake System uses hydraulic brake fluid. THESE SYSTEMS ARE SEPERATE! USE OF THE WRONG FLUID TYPE WILL CAUSE SEAL DAMAGE TO OCCUR. DO NOT MIX THE TWO SYSTEMS! PART I BLEEDING PROCEDURES FOR THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE BOOSTER 1. Fill power steering pump reservoir with power steering fluid. 2. Start engine and run for approximately two seconds then shut off engine. 3. Check fluid level; add as required. 4. Repeat steps two and three until (power steering reservoir) fluid retains constant level. 5. Raise the front of the vehicle until the height has cleared the tires. 5-a. Run engine at 1000 to 1500rpm. 5-b. Depress brake pedal several times. 5-c. Turn steering right and left, making light contact with wheel stops. 6. Turn the engine off, recheck reservoir fluid, and add if needed. 7. Lower the vehicle and repeat steps 5-a, 5-b, 5-c and 6. 8. If pedal is up and firm, the vehicle is ready for road testing. 9. If reservoir fluid is extremely foamy, let the vehicle stand with engine off for one hour, then recheck. Section I - Trouble Shooting & Guidelines • Page 9 SECTION I - TROUBLE SHOOTING & GUIDELINES PART II - ALL VACUUM UNITS - BLEEDING PROCEDURES IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT ALL BRAKE BLEEDING BE PERFORMED WITH A PRESSURE BLEEDER. IF ONE IS NOT AVAILABLE, USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:...
• Check for engine vacuum, make sure manifold is open and clear of carbon build up. • Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at the booster, do not guess. • Check vacuum hoses for soft spots, deterioration or collapse (replace hose if in doubt.) • Check brake pedal for binding. • Check the condition of the foundation brakes, drums, linings, and brake shoes for binding. • Check for air in Hydraulic System. • Check for any line restrictions. PEDAL KICKBACK • Check for dirt or foreign matter in Hydraulic System. • Before replacing the booster, remove the master cylinder to clean any dirt out. Also; Clean out the rest of the Hydraulic System. BRAKE WILL NOT RELEASE • Be sure a brake booster with residual check valve is not used with master cylinder with check valve. • On remote mountd boosters, disconnect the line between the master cylinder and the brake booster. • If the brakes release, the trouble is in the master cylinder (possibly the brake pedal is binding.) • If brakes do not release, disconnect the line from the booster to the wheel cylinders. • If the brakes release, the problem will be in the booster. • If brakes still do not release, the problem is in foundation brakes. • If brakes will not release on firewall mounted brake booster, disconnect the hydraulic line to the wheels. • If brakes release, the problem is in the booster or master cylinder (be sure the brake pedal is not binding.) LOW BRAKE PEDAL • Make sure master cylinder reservoir is full. • Check for air in the hydraulic system. • Make sure there are no leaks in the wheel cylinders, lines or fittings. • Check the foundation brakes for proper adjustment, cracked or over-sized drums. SPECIAL NOTES: Common Causes of Booster Failure
9. Brake Booster A: REMOVAL 1) Remove or disconnect the following parts at engine compartment. (1) Disconnect the connector for brake fluid level indicator. (2) Remove the brake pipes from master cylinder. (3) Remove the master cylinder installing nuts. (4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from brake booster. 2) Remove the following parts from pedal bracket. (1) Snap pin and clevis pin (2) Four brake booster installing nuts • Use care when placing the brake booster on floor. • Do not change the push rod length. If it has been changed, reset the projected length “L” to standard length. Standard L 10.05 mm (0.40 in) L BR-00074 (1) CAUTION: If external force is applied from above when the brake booster is placed in this position, the resin portion as indicated by “P”, may be damaged. (1) (2) P (3) BR-00075 (4) (1) Force BR-00073 (1) (2) (3) (4) B: INSTALLATION Nuts Clevis pin Snap pin Operating rod 1) Adjust the operating rod of brake booster. 3) Remove the brake booster while shunning brake pipes. Standard L 144.6 mm (5.69 in) If it is not within specified value, adjust it by adjusting the brake booster operating rod. NOTE: • Be careful not to drop the brake booster. The brake booster should be discarded if it has been dropped. • Use special care when handling the operating rod. If excessive force is applied to the operating rod, sufficient to cause a change in the angle in excess of ±3°, it may result in damage to the power piston cylinder. BR-38 L BR-00076 BRAKE BOOSTER BRAKE 2) Mount the brake booster in position. 3) Connect the operating rod to brake pedal with clevis pin and snap pin. CAUTION: Be careful not to rotate the stop light switch. Stop light switch clearance: A 0.3 mm (0.012 in) (1) A BR-00079
*Free Shipping Offer applies to products stamped with the icon (shown above) throughout this catalog shipped by UPS Ground in the 48 continental United States. Offer expires June 14, 2012. “Ain’t noth’n ever been got that ain’t been went out after.” — Jack Terwilliger (1914-2005) Gasoline with a 15% blend of ethanol could be hitting the streets this summer and mistakenly used to fuel landscaping equipment and older vehicle models. We know people will misfuel. This is a train wreck. “ — Kris Kiser, CEO and President of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute Ethanol — The Scourge of Small Engines. With increasing frequency, ethanol in today’s street gasoline fouls carburetors and degrades fuel systems in portable gas-powered tools, making them difficult, if not impossible, to start. Ethanol actually acts as a solvent, freeing up the gunk in fuel tanks and engines, clogging carburetors and fuel lines. The size of a small engine exaggerates this effect, as smaller fuel lines and smaller components are more quickly compromised by these deposits. ” COMMERCIAL GRADE POWER EQUIPMENT HAS EVOLVED. Featuring Tanaka’s New Purefire technology for lower fuel consumption — increasingly important in these times of rising fuel prices. All of the models below are rated to 300 hour Emissions Durability Period for long service life. Finally, all units are covered by Tanaka’s industry-leading 7-year consumer, 2-year commercial and 1-year rental warranty! Tanaka 32cc TCS3301 Arborist Chainsaw with 12" & 14" Bar and Chain Dear friends, an business, you run across Every now and then in for d…to be a real pioneer opportunity to truly lea gers on 3 years ago, with our fin something very special. ustry, we or Power Equipment ind the pulse of the Outdo ecedented and emerging were alerted to an unpr around t the growing concerns oblem…what to do abou d the pr sing ethanol content, an gas with its ever-increa pump transform that would ultimately new EPA regulations ow it.
For unmatched search engine optimization services in Atlanta GA, consider Centex Technologies. The SEO team at the firm helps improve organic search rankings of your website. The company serves wide range of businesses including chiropractors, law firms, restaurants, dentists, insurance agencies and AC companies. For details on search engine optimization services in Atlanta, visit - www.organicseoatlanta.com