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The LM34 series are precision integrated-circuit temperature sensors, whose output voltage is linearly proportional to the Fahrenheit temperature. The LM34 thus has an advantage over linear temperature sensors calibrated in degrees Kelvin, as the user is not required to subtract a large constant voltage from its output to obtain convenient Fahrenheit scaling. The LM34 does not require any external calibration or trimming to provide typical accuracies of ± 1⁄2˚F at room temperature and ± 11⁄2˚F over a full −50 to +300˚F temperature range. Low cost is assured by trimming and calibration at the wafer level. The LM34’s low output impedance, linear output, and precise inherent calibration make interfacing to readout or control circuitry especially easy. It can be used with single power supplies or with plus and minus supplies. As it draws only 75 µA from its supply, it has very low self-heating, less than 0.2˚F in still air. The LM34 is rated to operate over a −50˚ to +300˚F temperature range, while the LM34C is rated for a −40˚ to +230˚F range (0˚F with improved accuracy). The LM34 series is available packaged in hermetic TO-46 transistor packages, while the LM34C, LM34CA and LM34D are also available in the plastic TO-92 transistor package. The LM34D is also available in an 8-lead surface mount small outline package. The LM34 is a complement to the LM35 (Centigrade) temperature sensor.
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PACKAGE CONTENTS PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING. THIS WILL HELP YOU UNDERSTAND THE DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY AND WILL GIVE YOU INSIGHT TO THE TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NECESSARY TO SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE THE JOB. 1 Place car on jack stands. Check owner’s manual for correct jack points. Car should be at least 12 inches off the ground to allow the exhaust pieces enough clearance for removal and access to the lower hardware. Make sure the car is resting on all four jack stands securely. Open hood and place covers on fenders Remove engine cover by pulling upwards. Remove front wheels. 2 Remove wheelwell splash shields. Image shows location of fasteners. 3 Remove plastic undertray from bottom of engine bay. Image shows the location of fasteners. _________________ -2TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 4 Remove front bumper cover: Remove the screw holding bumper cover to the fender, about 1.0” back from wheel opening. Remove the 2 Phillip screws along with the 2 rubber buffers on top, between the head lamp and grill. R The rubber buffers come out by lifting the top rubber section with a thin flat blade screw driver. Gently raise this portion up to release the clip. Carefully pull bumper cover off part way and unplug outside air temp and fog lights if equipped. Then continue to remove bumper cover and set out of the way. _________________ -3TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 5 Drain Coolant : Loosen coolant fill cap on passenger side of engine bay. Remove drain plug, shown in photo. Drain coolant into large container and dispose of properly. Once coolant has finished draining, replace drain plug and tighten. Tighten coolant fill cap in engine bay. 6 Battery cover removal: Release the 3 clips shown in photo and lift cover. _________________ -4TRI-POINT ENGINEERING 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck cable behind battery. Remove the plastic clip securing the battery box duct (shown in photo, behind headlight) and lift out the duct assembly. 8 Remove air intake system: Squeeze both sides of the blue clip used to secure valvecover breather hose to rubber intake pipe and slide backwards to remove. Repeat process at the valvecover end of hose and remove. Unplug Airflow (MAF) sensor and temperature sensor. Loosen hose clamp attached to throttle body. Lift and unhook rubber strap securing airbox and lift whole airbox assembly straight up to remove. COVER THE OPEN THROTTLE BODY TO ENSURE NO FOREIGN MATERIAL GETS INSIDE DURING INSTALLATION
When battery is disconnected, vehicle computer and memory systems may lose memory data. Driveability problems may exist until computer systems have completed a relearn cycle. See the following: For 2002 models, see COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in GENERAL INFORMATION before disconnecting battery. For 2003 models, see COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in GENERAL INFORMATION before disconnecting battery. For 2004 models, see COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in GENERAL INFORMATION before disconnecting battery. Cooling fan motors operate when Powertrain Control Module (PCM) determines fan operation depending on crankshaft position, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, vehicle speed, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, A/C switch and refrigerant pressure switch inputs. Cooling fans receive power through the cooling fan relay. Condenser fan operates only when A/C compressor clutch engages except 2004 models with turbocharger which uses dual fans for engine cooling with or without A/C operation. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . COMPONENT LOCATION For component locations, refer to illustrations. See Fig. 1 -Fig. 3 . http://www.eautorepair.net/app/PrintItems.asp?S0=2097152&S1=0&SG=%7BCF1A455F%... 3/9/2006
E6X Wiring Diagram ... When two colors are used in a wire by the alphabetical code, the first letter indicates the basic wire ... Haltech E6X to Mazda RX-7 FC3S. E6X Wiring Diagram Mazda RX-7 2nd Gen Series 4/5 CRANK ANGLE SENSOR Ne- to Main Trigger Ground (Red) TRIGGER INPUTS Ne+ (24 teeth) to Main Trigger (Yellow) A 26 6 13 26 TRIGGER GROUND B C MAIN TRIGGER HOME TRIGGER TRIGGER GROUND +SEN G+ (2 teeth) to Home Trigger (Green) G- to Home Ground (Blue) HOME TRIGGER E From Sensor Supply Via 15A Fuse Red MAIN TRIGGER D HOME GROUND White HOME GROUND Green White/Black Connector F Note: Shielded cable should be wired at ECU end only. 26 27 36 35 34 12 GROUND [B] AUX. OUT [G / B ] IGNITION #1 [W/B] IGNITION #3 [L] IGNITION #4 To Trailing Toggle Select [ LG ] IGNITION #2 Not Used [L/Y] To Leading Coils To Trailing Coil Signal Not Used Leading Coil Signal - Pink (from Ign1) Not Used L1 / L2 12 Power - Light Green Connector IGs-T Trailing Select Signal - Brown/Yellow (from Aux. Out) 20 21 [ LB ] INJECTOR #2 [L/R] INJECTOR #3 [P] White [G/R] INJECTOR #4 19 INJECTOR #1 LEADING COIL PACK IGT-T Trailing Coil Signal Blue/Yellow (from Ign2) Pink Tacho Output - To Stock Tachometer - Yellow/Blue Yellow IGf-T Feedback Signal - Blue/Red (Not Used) Grey T1 T2 22 12V Power - Light Green 12V Power - Light Green +12V Supply for Injectors and Sensors. Light Green Light Green TRAILING COIL PACK +SEN Connector Secondary Rear Rotor LOOKING AT ECU CONNECTOR 1 18 19 36 Secondary Front Rotor Primary Rear Rotor Primary Front Rotor LEGEND - WIRE COLORS: Haltech E6X to Mazda RX-7 FC3S B = BLACK BR = BROWN G = GREEN GY = GREY L = BLUE O = ORANGE P = PINK R = RED V = VIOLET Y = YELLOW When two colors are used in a wire by the alphabetical code, the first letter indicates the basic wire color, the second indicates the color of stripe. (Ex. O/R = Orange with Red stripe, GY/R = Grey with Red stripe) Series 4/5 FC3S 86-91, Stock CAS & Igniter/Coil Wiring Haltech USA - www.haltech.com Rev. 1 Ver. 2 Date: 14-Nov-2008
All the information stated in this document was provided by Prius owners. None were affiliated with Toyota Motor Corporation, except as customers. This document is not sanctioned by Toyota Motor Corporation or any of its affiliates. The ideas, suggestions, and opinions offered in this document have not been endorsed by the manufacturer of those specific components or Toyota Motor Corporation. Any harm or damage that may result from the application of or the following of any ideas, suggestions, or opinions contained in this document is the sole responsibility of the individual that applied or followed said ideas, suggestions or opinions. The authors of this document hereby declare that they cannot and will not be held liable, in any fashion, for the content or the use of this document. Please dispose of the used oil & filters properly. Pour the oil into the emptied bottles afterward, then drop them off at a recycling center. If isn’t one nearby, many repair shops will accept used oil. (There is sometimes a fee for disposal.) Used filters can often be disposed of at that same location.
(Part Number 200-KT-V300D) The Racepak data acquisition system you have purchased for your Harley-Davidson Destroyer has been developed as a joint project between Harley-Davidson Engineering and Racepak Data Systems. It has been designed specifically for your motorcycle as a plug-and-play system. Harley-Davidson has built your motorcycle with a number of features already installed that will greatly ease the job of installing this Racepak system. It should be noted that, although similar in appearance, the components in this kit are purpose built and are not interchangeable with components from other Racepak data acquisition systems. GETTING STARTED One of the first things you should do is to insure that you have received all of the components needed to complete this installation. Racepak suggests that you lay out all of the items that you have received so you can identify and check off each of them from the list below. This will also help to familiarize you with each of the components in the kit. Your kit should include the following items: (1) V300 Harley-Davidson Destroyer Data Recorder. A (1) Two Channel Air/Fuel Controller. B (2) Air/Fuel Sensors with Cable. C (1) Wire Harness, Air/Fuel Controller to Sensors with Heater Wire. D (1) Mounting Bracket. E (2) V-Net Modules with Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensors. F (1) Adapter Cable, Wire Harness to Clutch RPM Sensor. G (1) Clutch RPM Sensor with Pigtail Cable. H (1) Wire Harness, with RPM & Analog Cable. I (1) Installation Manual.
This kit should only be installed on a vehicle that is in good working condition. Before you install the kit, thoroughly inspect the vehicle for corrosion or deformation of the sheet metal around the factory body mounts. If the vehicle is suspected to have been in a collision or misused, do not install this kit. Off-road use of your vehicle with this kit installed may increase the stress applied to the factory body mounts. We do not recommend that any vehicle with a body lift kit installed be involved in any extreme off-road maneuvers such as jumping. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious personal injury and/or severe damage to your vehicle. WARNING Many states and municipalities have laws restricting bumper heights and vehicle lifts. Consult state and local laws to determine if the changes you intend to make to the vehicle comply with the law. WARNING Installation of a Performance Automotive Group body lift kit will change the vehicle’s center of gravity and handling characteristics both on- and off-road. You must drive the vehicle safely! Extreme care must be taken to prevent vehicle rollover or loss of control, which could result in serious injury or death. Avoid sudden sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers and always make sure all vehicle occupants have their seat belts fastened. WARNING The installation of larger tires may reduce the effectiveness of the braking system. WARNING Always wear eye protection when operating power tools. WARNING Before you install this kit, read and understand all instructions, warnings, cautions, and notes in this instruction sheet and in the vehicle owner’s manual. WARNING Before you install this kit, block the vehicle tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
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Why does the sensor get dirty? Recognising when the sensor is contaminated. The basic internal parts of a Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera The best strategy to ensure a safe and successful sensor clean. The different sensor cleaning methods available today. When to clean the sensor Cleaning the Mirror and Focussing Screen Hygiene After reading through this material you should have a good knowledge of the inside of your DSLR, know when the sensor is contaminated and how to safely clean it using a method of your choice. The guide is quite long, as the intention is to educate as well as to inform. If you wish to skip any section, please use the chapter links above to move quickly around the article. Why does the sensor get dirty? Ten years ago, when most images were shot on film, dust was not much of a problem for photographers. Since a fresh piece of film was used for each exposure, any dust present on the film only affected that single exposure. Of course dust was a big problem for the photo laboratories that developed and printed film. A good lab would go to extraordinary lengths to prevent dust spots spoiling your prints. With today’s digital cameras, every exposure is made on the same imaging sensor. Hence a spot of dust on that sensor will appear on every image. Because most compact digital cameras have a fixed lens and a well-made case, dust does not often find its way inside the camera and onto the imaging sensor. Although its not unusual for an older compact camera to suffer from the odd spot or two of dust. However a digital single lens reflex camera has a removable lens.