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This document is protected by copyright and may not, in whole or part be stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, copied, photocopied, translated or reduced to any machine-readable form without prior consent in writing from Triumph Motorcycles Limited. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions in this publication, although every possible care has been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible. Triumph Motorcycles Limited reserves the right to make changes and alter specifications without prior notice and without incurring an obligation to make such changes to products manufactured previously. See your authorised Triumph dealer for the latest information on product improvements incorporated after this publication. All information contained in this publication is based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. Illustrations in this publication are intended for reference use only and may not depict actual model component parts. Engine and Lubrication Oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 10W/50 engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) and JASO MA. Triumph recommends Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W/40 or 10W/50 (fully synthetic) engine oil, sold as Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W/40 or 10W/50 (fully synthetic) in some countries Fill quantity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres (oil and filter change). Always refer to the dipstick/filler cap markings for correct level
Tools and Materials As far as tools go, you will need an assortment of flat and Philips-head screwdrivers, a clean rag, a 14mm socket and suitable ratchet and extension bar (if you plan to remove a front seat), a pair of wire cutters and strippers, a drill, a jigsaw, a rotary tool (commonly referred to as a “Dremel”) with a cylindrical sanding attachment and small grinding attachment, and a long stiff piece of wire or a narrow rod such as a straightened-out coat-hanger or an old dipstick. Other household tools like a knife and pliers are also handy. The materials you will need include a sheet of 5mm MDF board (at least 40cm x 20cm), a pair of 6.5” x 15mm MDF speaker spacer rings from your local Figure 3 – My aftermarket 6.5” woofer, 1” tweeter, and car audio shop (or a sheet of 15mm MDF to make crossover across the top row, and stock tweeter and your own rings, at least 40cm x 20cm), some woofer below on the bottom row. contact cement, speaker wire, and a can of cheap spray-paint (colour doesn’t matter, but I used matt black). The amount of speaker wire depends on whether you intend to re-use any of the existing factory speaker wire, and where you intend to install your Crossovers and Amplifier. I purchased about 15m of oxygen-free speaker wire from Dick Smith (at about AU$1.55/m) which has a considerably thicker core than the thin wire supplied with the New Speakers, yet isn’t so thick that it’s expensive or difficult to work with. I don’t want to start a debate on the merits of various speaker wires though, so you choose whatever you feel happy with. I found 15m to be just about the right total length of wire for my install, but it’s worth being careful before cutting it (i.e. don’t just cut it into 4 equal lengths, remember that the wiring will likely be longer on one side of the car than the other and measure first).
Thank you for purchasing the PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer. Please read the instruction manual carefully before proceeding with the installation. Contact AIRAID @ (800) 498-6951 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM MST Weekdays for questions regarding fit or instructions that are not clear to you. Your PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer was carefully inspected and packaged. Check that no parts are missing, or were damaged during shipping. If any parts are missing, please contact AIRAID. Thank you for selecting AIRAID. Ask about our Airaid Intake System for your vehicle. Call for details! Parts List (1) Power Plate (1) “O”-ring (5) 3/4” Linkage Plates (5) 6mm x 20mm Flat Head Screws (3) 6mm x 60mm Bolts (3) 6mm Flat Washers (1) 6mm x 12mm Bolt (1) 6mm Lock Washer Tools List 10mm Socket Ratchet 4mm Hex Key Standard Screwdriver 1 Installation Instructions. Read Me! 1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE (-) BATTERY CABLE. 2. Remove the throttle body intake cover and save bolts. 3. Remove air intake assembly. 4. Remove (3) bolts from throttle body. 5. Remove bolts from throttle linkage bracket and save. 6. Install power plate using (3) 6mm x 60mm bolts and flat washers. (Ref. “D”) 7. Locate (3) linkage plates and (3) 6mm x 20mm flat head screws before installing the throttle linkage and dipstick bracket. * Please Note: Remove the stud from front throttle linkage mount. Dipstick must be relocated to forward mount on lower linkage plate using 6mm x 12mm bolt and lock washer. 8. Locate (2) linkage plates using (2) flat head screws to reposition throttle body cover using saved bolts. Refer to Step 1. 9. Inspect & Test throttle linkage for full Open & Closed travel before driving. Some cruise or kickdown cables may require adjustment. Please refer to your vehicles service manual for proper adjusting. 10. Reinstall the throttle body air intake assembly using Step 3 as an example. 11. Reconnect battery cable. Enjoy!
Body Lift Installation Instructions ... and remove bolts from opposite side using a 5/8” socket for positions 1,5 and 6 (ref. Fig.1 on page 2) and a ¾” socket for positions 2, 3 and 4. Use a long extension to remove mounts next to gas tank. Place 2x4 between jack and body to spread out load and jack up body on the side you have removed the bolts from just far enough to remove mounts. The bolts on the opposite side will help ensure that the body does not shift. CAUTION: Open Hood while jacking up the body to make sure that the fan doesn’t hit the shroud. Also, watch that hoses and wires are not stretched. The dip-stick head can be pinched so remove dipstick while doing installation. When lifting the side of the vehicle that the fuel filler is on, keep a close eye not to stretch, tear or pull too far on the hose connection.) Remove factory mounts one at a time and remove stock steel insert. View A. Insert stock steel inserts inside top portion of body lift spacer in positions 2-6. (Note:If it fits tight, you may have to use a vise.) See View B. Insert 7/8” OD x 1” long tube (Part No S10281 Included in kit) into lower portion of body lift spacer in positions 2-6 and insert steel sleeve (Part No. S10012 Included in kit) in position #1. (This tube/sleeve is a crush sleeve to eliminate over-torque of polyurethane mounts) Jack up the body using a 2x4 under one side of the body for support just high enough to insert new body lift spacers. If the steel collar on new mounts will not insert in frame holes, you may have to file out frame mount hole slightly to install spacer. Repeat on opposite side. See View C. Install transmission linkage lowering plate to stock transmission linkage bracket with 2 each ¼” machine bolts, lock washers and ... •DRIVE WITH CARE, REDUCE SPEED AND WEAR SEAT BELTS AT ALL TIMES.• •This kit should be installed by a professional mechanic.• Instruction Sheet P10432-08 © 2000 Daystar Products International Inc.
Shadow ACE 750 Oil Change If you're a thrifty soul like I am (notice I didn't say cheap), you'll want to save some dough by doing your oil change yourself. It's really easy, doesn't take a lot of muscle or time, and you can spend what you save by doing it yourself on some toys for your bike. Having previously purchased the Honda Service Manual (I figured it oughta come in handy for more than just an oil change), I purchased my supplies to do my own oil change at 4000 miles. I bought the Honda oil filter wrench because you can put a 3/8" drive ratchet on it to loosen or tighten the filter. It's not cheap, but it's a good one-time investment for your bike. If you've ever changed the oil and filter in a 4-wheel vehicle, it's the same concept, everything's just in a different place. Following the Service Manual, here's what I did. All sections italicized are direct quotes from the Honda Service Manual. NOTE: Change the engine oil with the engine warm and the motorcycle on its side stand to assure complete and rapid draining. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to warm the oil. Remove the oil dipstick. This provides an air gap for the oil to flow freely while draining. Locate the oil drain plug. It is on the left side, at the bottom of the engine. There is not enough space to use a ratchet, so I used a 17mm combination wrench. The open end included in your bike's toolkit will work fine. Loosen the drain plug, then place a drain pan under the drain plug. Remove the drain plug. Let the oil drain into the drain pan. Now the manual states: With the engine stop switch "OFF", push the starter button for a few seconds to drain any oil which may be left in the engine. NOTE: Do not operate the motor for more than a few seconds. I didn't want the engine to start, so I pulled the plug wires first, then cranked the engine for a few seconds. Some additional oil was blown out by the engine cranking. After draining the oil completely, check that the sealing washer on the drain bolt is in good condition and replace if necessary. Replace and tighten the drain plug. The factory recommended torque is 22 lbs/ft. or 3.1 kgs/m. Locate the oil filter. It is on the left side, about a foot behind the oil drain plug. Place the drain pan under the oil filter, remove the oil filter and place it in the drain pan, then let the remaining oil drain into the pan. Apply a layer of new oil to the o-ring and the threads on the new filter, then screw the new filter into place and tighten. The factory recommended torque is 7 lbs/ft. or 1.0 kgs/m. Fill the crankcase with new oil. A funnel comes in handy here. According to the manual, the oil capacity at draining is 2.32 quarts or 2.2 liters. The capacity at oil filter change is 2.54 quarts or 2.4 liters. I put in one quart, checked the level, the a second quart and checked the level. After the second quart, the oil just reached the dipstick. I then added just a hair more than half of the third quart, and checked the level. The level is now at the upper level mark...
MODEL 18080-0000 PERMANENT OIL DRAIN HOSE AND FITTING 1. Run engine at idle speed for about 5 minutes to warm the engine oil. Explosion hazard. Take necessary precautions to ventilate area around battery of potentially explosive gases. Continue ventilation during oil changing procedure. Failure to do so can Burn hazard. Heated oil can cause burns. Wear protective gloves, clothing and safety glasses during the oil change process. Failure to do so may result in personal injury. 2. Turn off engine and drain engine oil using a Jabsco drill pump and hose kit (Model 17215-0000). To pump the oil out of engine, insert the probe to the inside bottom of the engine through the dipstick tube. (You may also drain your engine oil by whatever method you have previously used). 3. Remove the oil drain plug from your engine, catching the final drips of oil with a cardboard sheet. hole in oil drain fitting which will provide the most direct path to convenient hanger location on vertical bulkhead or firewall. Wrap plug with Teflon tape or apply thread compound and install in remaining hole, securely. Install cap securely on free end of drain hose. Pipe Plug Oil drain fitting and oil drain hose must be tightened securely to prevent fittings from loosening and causing an oil leak that can damage engine. Install cap securely on free end of drain hose. 5. Locate drain hose on vertical bulkhead or firewall and secure with plastic hose hanger. Do not kink hose or locate so that it touches the engine. See that all fittings are tightened securely. Installation is now complete. 4. Wrap threads of hex drain fitting with Teflon* tape, or apply thread compound. Make sure nylon washer is in place between engine pan and hex drain fitting. Install hex drain fitting in pan securely. Wrap threads of black drain hose fitting with Teflon tape or apply thread compound...
50 Tips for Ford N Owners Ford 9N, 2N and 8N Tractors I'd like to say that the reason I have an 8N Ford tractor is because that's the tractor my grandfather used on the farm. Well, my grandfather was a farmer in Caroline County, Virginia, but he worked the farm with mules. The only tractor I ever operated was an 8N owned by my close friend, Lewis Mills, of Ashland, Virginia, so it was only natural to look for an N when I moved out to the country six years ago. That, and the fact that Ashland still had a Ford tractor dealership. My first N was a 1950, followed by a 1951 with a Freeman loader, followed by another 1950. Because my pole barn has three bays & I don't own horses, my theory is that I'm supposed to have one tractor per bay! Over the years of owning these three tractors, I have managed to refresh what little mechanical knowledge I had and add a little more, thanks to the wisdom and helpfulness of many fellow N owners. So, now it's my turn to share a few of the tips I've picked up. Listed below are a few things I have learned about N tractors thanks to many folks on the YT Board, including Dell (WA), souNdguy, Eddie8N, Jeb2N, AdamP and many others. 1. The governor has a long bolt & a short bolt; make sure that you put the short bolt on the top. If you put the long bolt on top, your next project will be to replace the timing gear. 2. Front wheel grease seals are installed with the rubber toward the spindle and the metal toward the bearings. 3. The N tractors have a common sump for the rear end, hydraulic pump and transmission. There are three drain plugs under the tractor and one filler cap behind the gear shift. To change the fluid, start by removing the pipe plug under the rear end and move forward to the hydraulic pump and then the transmission. Use only Ford MC-134D hydraulic oil or 90w mineral oil. The modern equivalent of 90w mineral oil is TSC Traveller brand GL-1 or NAPA part number 65-205. 4. To add just the right amount of hydraulic fluid, remove the bottom bolt from the inspection plate; unless you just cleaned out the sludge in the pump base, it will only take about 4 ¾ gallons (not 5) of hydraulic oil. When the oil leaks out of the bolt hole, it has enough in it. Any more fluid will leak past the seals and onto the brakes. Mark you dipstick accordingly. 5. It is not necessary to add .lead. to the gas or use hi-test gas. This is a low compression (6.5:1), low hp (23hp) engine with hardend valve seats. 6. The general . but not universal - consensus of N owners is to use multi-vis detergent oil, with the weight of the oil being determined by engine wear and outside temps; worn engines will require a heavier weight and colder temps lightweight oil. 7. Use Champion H-12 or Autolite AL437 plugs as they run hotter than the original spec Champion H-10s. 8. The muffler clamp has a big side and a small side; the big side goes to the bottom. Putting some tin foil under the clamp helps reduce exhaust leaks and coating the bolts/nuts on the clamp with a never-seize compound will allow you to replace the tin foil without buying a new clamp. 9. Henry Ford was a frugal man and would never install anything on a tractor or car that was not essential to its operation. The fuel shut-off valve on the sediment bowl is there for a reason; shut the gas off when you turn off the ignition key . every time! If you forget and leave it on, and the needle valve or float in your carb is bad, and the intake hose from the air filter is secured tightly to the carb, gas will flow from the carb into the intake manifold and into the engine, filling your oil pan with gasoline. 10. The Napa part number for the sediment bowl gasket is 730-9506; they are .50 cents each. Stock up. The Napa oil filter number is 1010...
Jul 27, 2012 ... Remove cooler pipe unions and/or elbows. Remove dipstick and filler tube. Remove manual shift lever. Pry back locking tab on lock plate. Remove nut and washer. Remove Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch.AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OVERHAUL - A541E -2001 Toyota Camry LE ... Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC. 7/27/2012 ...Disconnect solenoid harness connectors. Remove valve body bolts. Note location of bolts during removal. See Fig. 11. Remove valve body assembly. Remove wiring harness clamp. Disconnect throttle cable from cam and remove valve body.
MITSUBISHI 3000GT. Vehicle make: Engine type: 3000 V6 Twin Turbo 6G79. Unichip version: ECU location: Special Notes: COMMENTS. Cautions: Drawing for ...To adjust the boost pressure, start the engine, then go into 'Tuning' & enable 'Boost control' Now you will notice that as you adjust the the fuel pot the wastegate control duty cycle will alter. When you are at full throttle, you can adjust this to give you the desired boost pressure for that rpm. Tune the engine for a boost of about 14 psi. Things to note when tuning turbo engines: Keep a careful eye on coolant temperature =<90C Oil temp =<110C (use MOT dipstick) Inlet air temp =<45C (use bead type thermocouple that comes with most multimeters & mount in inlet manifold, or just before butterfly if this is easier)