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CLUTCH DISC: Please note, after installing AA flywheel and new clutch disc, the vehicles should be driven moderately to seat the disc properly. LIMITED LIABILITY: All flywheels are manufactured for off-road use applications and are considered racing parts. Active Autowerke will not be responsible or liable for labor, incidental or consequential damages of any kind. E36 M3 Flywheel Installation he front section of driveshaft has to come down. p the center support too. The insulation was removed right after the exhaust. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder, the electronic connection elps. Especially for the starter mounting bolts. p the center support too. The insulation was removed right after the exhaust. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder, the electronic connection elps. Especially for the starter mounting bolts. the old that needs to be replaced with a AA Clutch Fork. On 96-99 models to maintain the proper clutch release point. Note you might hav he pressure plate on with a hand impact. DO NOT USE AIRTOOLS! Airtools will likely strip the heads of the hex bolts, they're soft. Get a ham ct so you can get the flywheel off.
February 2005 Supersedes J3311-DSD May 1994 Contact Information: Dana Corporation Heavy Vehicle Technologies and Systems Service P.O. Box 321 Toledo, OH 43697-0321 1-800-SAY-DANA (729-3262) Dana Corporation Heavy Vehicle Technologies and Systems Service – Canada 5095 South Service Road Beamsville, Ontario, Canada L0R 1B0 Tech Service: 1-905-563-4991 www.dana.com www2.dana.com/expert J3311-1-HVTSS 2/05 Printed in U.S.A. © Dana Corporation 2005 All rights reserved. Dana Corporation Heavy Vehicle Technologies and Systems Service – International 419-861-6325 Driveshaft Installation Safety Precautions General Safety Information WARNING: GUARDING AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFTS To prevent injury to yourself and /or damage to the equipment: • Read carefully all owners manuals, service manuals, and/or other instructions. • Always follow proper procedures and use proper tools and safety equipment. • Be sure to receive proper training. • Never work alone while under a vehicle or while repairing or maintaining equipment. • Always use proper components in applications for which they are approved. • Be sure to assemble components properly. • Never use worn-out or damaged components. • Always block any raised or moving device that may injure a person working on or under a vehicle. • Never operate the controls of the power take-off or other driven equipment from any position that could result in getting caught in the moving machinery. We strongly recommend that a power take-off and a directly mounted pump be used to eliminate the auxiliary driveshaft whenever possible. If an auxiliary driveshaft is used and remains exposed after installation, it is the responsibility of the vehicle designer and PTO installer to install a guard. WARNING: USING SET SCREWS.
ROTATING ENGINE STANDS 1. Overall visually inspect stand for any signs of wear and fatigue. 2. Lubricate spindles and gear box as referenced in vendor literature if equipped. 3. Inspect anti-rotation locking mechanism if equipped. 4. Install weight equal to engine weight to the engine stand for approximately 2 min. 5. Rotate weight set 360º in both directions if equipped. Operation should be free of binding and/or catching during rotation. 6. Dismantle fixture and visually inspect stand for any signs of wear or failure. Any item, which does not successfully pass the test, is to be rejected and discarded or returned to Tronair for evaluation. Load Cell Data Load Cell Display Cylinder/Pump Eyebolt 2x4 Wood Block Install Weight To Stand 08-2030-0000 AND 08-2034-0000 1. Install engine stand test fixture. 2. Position beam assembly in the center of the engine stand. 3. Tighten beam locks evenly, until the beam assembly is locked in place. 4. Position engine stand over eye hook in floor. Line eye hook directly under pull point of the test fixture. 5. Install 2 x 4 inch block under wheels and lock stand in place. 6. Attach load cell, pull cylinder to eyebolt. 7. Put engine stand through two cycles of loading the engine stand to 3,000 pounds (2,667 psi on gauge). Hold for 30 seconds then release load. 8. Inspect all welds and joints for signs of distortion; if no defects are found, the engine stand is good. 9. If defects are found discard or return to Tronair for evaluation.
Removal (Diamante) 1) Remove hood. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator. Release fuel system pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain engine oil and transaxle oil. Remove front exhaust pipe. Remove transaxle assembly. See appropriate CLUTCHES or TRANSMISSION SERVICING article. 2) Disconnect accelerator cable, brake booster vacuum hose, fuel supply and return lines, and heater hoses. Disconnect EGR temperature sensor (if equipped). Unplug vacuum hose connector. Remove drive belts. Remove power steering pump and A/C compressor, leaving hoses attached. 3) Unplug all harness connectors. Remove bolt from body ground connection. Disconnect alternator wiring inside relay box. Remove relay box and engine wiring harness connection. On models with ABS, remove radiator overflow tank and bracket. 4) Attach engine hoist. Raise engine enough to take weight from mounts. Remove engine mount bracket. Remove damper. Remove rear roll stopper bracket mount bolt. Remove front roll stopper bracket mount bolt. Carefully lift engine from car. Installation (Diamante) To install, reverse removal procedure. Install engine mount bracket so that arrow points away from engine, toward body. Install new "O" rings on fuel lines. Install new exhaust gaskets and nuts. Adjust throttle cable. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE at the end of this article. Replenish fluids. CAUTION: DO NOT allow foreign material into turbocharger air intake hoses or pipes.
www.tuneyourengine.com. 1994 - 1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 ECU Diagram. Connector A. Connector B Connector C. Connector D. Pin #. Name. Signal Type. Connector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground GroundConnector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground GroundConnector B Name Injector 1 Injector 3 Injector 5 Injector 2 Injector 4 Injector 6 Power Ground Air Intake Temperature Sensor O2 Sensor # 1 (Right Bank) O2 Sensor # 2 (Left Bank) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Vehicle Speed Sensor Volume Air Flow Sensor Power Ground Sensor Ground Connector C Connector D Signal Type Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Speed Ground Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Analog Speed Analog Ground Ground
This procedure will require the use of a hand operated vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. If you do not own one it can often be rented or borrowed from most “big box” parts stores. (Note: 18”HG is the minimum engine vacuum at idle in gear to effectively operate a vacuum booster 1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20” of vacuum. 2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20” it is faulty and needs to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20” proceed to step 3. 3) With 20” of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer some but not the entire vacuum in reserve. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see 5-10” of vacuum depleted from reserve. The most important thing is to ensure the booster does transfer vacuum but does NOT transfer the entire vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20” OR goes to zero the booster is bad and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above parameter proceed to step 4. 4) Once again draw booster down to 20” of vacuum. Go inside car and depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Power Brake Booster, Replacing Power Brake Booster, Replacing Preparation Disconnect the battery lead Removal Preparations for removing the power brake booster Switch off the ignition. Remove the cross member. (On 5 cylinder engines): Remove the screws and nuts from the engine mounting. Lift out the cross member. Remove the air cleaner (ACL) housing. Remove the plastic cap and the cable holder. Remove the integrated relay/fusebox. Preparations for removing the ABS unit Clean the brake pipes terminals at the master cylinder and ABS unit. Place paper under the master cylinder to avoid brake fluid spillage. Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder and the ABS unit. Plug the master cylinder socket for the brake pipes. Remove the ABS unit and bracket from the side member The unit is secured with three screws. NOTE: Store the ABS unit in such a way that no dirt can get into the pipe couplings. Preparations for removing the master cylinder NOTE: On cars with 6-cylinder engines: Disconnect the connectors from the master cylinder. Mark up a connector. Disconnect the connectors on the power brake booster. NOTE: If the car has hydraulic clutch: Block the hose to the clutch cylinder. Use hose pliers. Remove the master cylinder Avoid brake fluid spillage when removing. NOTE: Ensure that the gasket between the power brake booster and the master cylinder stays in place on the master cylinder. Remove the soundproofing panel and the power brake booster Transfer the components to the new power brake booster Transfer: ...
The reliability of automobile brake components is a very important issue from the point of view of safety. This thesis presents a combined experimental and numerical stress analysis of a vacuum booster. The booster consists of a thin-walled, closed shell that contains a diaphragm and a mechanical control system. The master cylinder which provides hydraulic pressure to the components on the wheels, is mounted directly on the booster shell using threaded bolts. The booster under consideration developed crack near one of these bolts during an endurance test. The numerical stress analysis conducted here demonstrated that significant stress concentration can be present on the booster shell near these mounting bolts. The numerical model was validated by direct comparison of meridional strains to experimental measurements at selected locations. The results also showed that increasing the wall thickness of the booster by 25% would allow the booster to successfully complete the endurance test. to the Blessed Mother of God, “Notre Dame”, Who inspired me to start my studies and then, every day, encouraged me to strive to the successful finish.
Booster W/Master Cyl. Power Brake Booster w/Master Cylinder • Speciﬁc ﬁt applications available in beautiful chrome plated or gold zinc ﬁnishes • 1” and 1-1/8” master cylinder bores work with disc/ disc, disc/drum, and drum/drum brake set-ups • Single and dual diaphragm styles available in 7”, 8”, 9” and 11” diameters to ﬁt virtually all hot rods, customs and muscle cars • 100% all new components - and every unit is vacuum tested to insure reliability • Works with many stock mounting bracket set-ups and with Tuff Stuff bracket kits on page 36 GM A & F Body 2126NA GM A & F Body 1964 - 66 Style 2126N 9” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 studs Master Cylinder Chrome Gold Zinc 1-1/8” 2126NA 2126NB 2020 Dual reservoir GM A & F Body Bore 2071 Single reservoir 1” 2126NA-1 2126NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 1” 2126NA-2 2126NB-2 7-1/8 long pedal rod, 1-1/2" vertical mounting hole spacing GM A & F Body 1966 - 72 2127NA Style 2127N 11” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 stud Master Cylinder Bore Chrome Gold Zinc 2071 Dual reservoir 1-1/8” 2127NA 2127NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2127NA-1 2127NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 1” 2127NA-2 2127NB-2 Nova Chevy Nova 1962 - 67 Style 2133N 9” Single Diaphragm Booster Combo, 3/8”-16 studs Master Cylinder Chrome Gold Zinc 2071 Dual reservoir 1-1/8” 2133NA 2133NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2133NA-1 2133NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 2133NA Bore 1” 2133NA-2 2133NB-2 3 Mounting studs GM Truck 1973 - 92 GM Truck Style 2132N 11” Dual Diaphragm Booster Combo, 10x1.5 metric Master Cylinder Gold Zinc 1”-1/8” 2132NA 2132NB 2020 Dual reservoir 1” 2132NA-1 2132NB-1 2018 Dual reservoir 30 Chrome 2071 Single reservoir 2132NA Bore 1” 2132NA-2 2132NB-2 3/8-16 Pedal rod length 1-800-331-6562 Booster W/Master Cyl. Power Brake Booster w/Master Cylinder • Speciﬁc ﬁt applications available in beautiful chrome plated or gold zinc ﬁnishes • 1” and 1-1/8” master cylinder bores work with disc/ disc, disc/drum, and drum/drum brake set-ups • Single and dual diaphragm styles available in 7”, 8”, 9” and 11” diameters to ﬁt virtually all hot rods, customs and muscle cars • 100% all new components - and every unit is vacuum tested to insure reliability • Works with many stock mounting bracket set-ups and with Tuff Stuff bracket kits on page 36 ...